2008 section 422.31 (B)

Status
Not open for further replies.
JOHNEO99

JOHNEO99

Senior Member
Location
Northern Illinois
Today I failed a final inspection because I don't have a disconnect on a 240V wall oven in a home that I wired. I have done 20 of these ovens in this village and they never wanted this done before.

The inspector referred me to the code section in the title of this thread and I'm wondering what my best bet would be to suffice this code because I have not run into this in 20 years.

What if anything would you do? Add a disco in the cabinet above the wall oven or some kinda lock out device (which I'm not familiar with) at the circuit breaker on the panel?

Im supposed to go on vacation in the morning and now I gotta fix this first. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

John
 
I asked about that and he said lemme check and I will call you back. Well he called back and said the handbook stated specifically that breaker locks wont work and that it needs to be an integral part of the breaker and that it must actually be able to be locked by a lock. I'm not sure what this means because I just have the regular 2008 code book not the hand book.

sigh
 
Last edited:
JOHNEO99 said:
I asked about that and he said lemme check and I will call you back. Well he called back and said the handbook stated specifically that breaker locks wont work and that it needs to be an integral part of the breaker and that it must actually be able to be locked by a lock. I'm not sure what this means because I just have the regular 2008 code book not the hand book.

sigh
Click to expand...

Here's the code section. They do make breaker locks that comply with the bold section. He is not reading the NECH information correctly. For the record the NECH information is not part of the NEC.

422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances.
(A) Rated at Not over 300 Volt-Amperes or Horsepower. For permanently connected appliances rated at not over 300 volt-amperes or hp, the branch-circuit overcurrent device shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means.
(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes or Horsepower. For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes or hp, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed.
Click to expand...
 
breaker locks

breaker locks

as far as i know a breaker lock is acceptable as long as you can't remove lock clip without removing panel cover
 
We accept the lock on the OCPD that is held in place by the cover. We do not rely on the handbook for decision making as this is not part of the code but someone's opinion.

The handbook is great for helping to understand parts of the code but cannot be used for code references unless adopted by that jurisdiction as such.
 
It just has to be one that is capable of being locked.

QO1PL%202%203p%20QO%20Handle%20Padlock%20ON%20or%20OFF-%20non%20GFI_lres.jpg
 
I don't think there are too many choices out there. It works and meets the intent in my book. If you have any choices that are better, please let me know.
 
infinity said:
He is not reading the NECH information correctly.
Click to expand...
Or, the two people having the conversation aren't communicating effectively. Quite often, when people are talking about a breaker lock, they are envisioning two different things.

A device to secure a breaker in the on or off position permanently (as is common on, say, a fire alarm control panel) is not compliant. A device to allow a padlock to be installed on the breaker to keep someone from inadvertently turning the circuit on during maintenance is.

They are both called "breaker locks," and usually the supply guy hands you the wrong thing despite a detailed description and a sketch. :)
 
This is interesting (I don't do residential work).

So, reading the info led me to 422.33. Now I have a question. What are y'all doing on cord and plug connected ranges? Installing breaker locks at the panel for those too?

So how many breaker locks get installed on residential services (typically)?
 
hardworkingstiff said:
This is interesting (I don't do residential work).

So, reading the info led me to 422.33. Now I have a question. What are y'all doing on cord and plug connected ranges? Installing breaker locks at the panel for those too?

So how many breaker locks get installed on residential services (typically)?
Click to expand...

As long as the plug is accessible, no separate disconnect is required. Read the definition of accessible in the NEC.
 
ivsenroute said:
As long as the plug is accessible, no separate disconnect is required. Read the definition of accessible in the NEC.
Click to expand...

I was reading 422.33(B) and it seems that you must be able to pull a drawer and reach the plug to not be required to install a disconnecting means (or breaker lock). That's a tough reach for a short-armed guy like me, from the front of the range back to the receptacle behind the range (and be able to pull it out).

Is that the practice? Put the range receptacle low so you can reach it through the drawer?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top