230V 60W bulb

[Fred B]

Customer handed me a hanging light fixture they wanted installed, thought something was off when I saw a brown and blue conductor in the cord. Saw what looked at first to be a standard medium Edison base. But on further looking the bulb was a little different and marked 230V 60W. Can't seem to find any direct information reference on this bulb. What is this? Can the socket be changed out to work on a 120V circuit? The existing base is slightly different, standard bulb will scew in but won't make center pin contact on a 120V bulb. They got the fixture for the appearance, it is unique so they'll want to have it work.

 

[tom baker]

The lamp will work at 120 v, will be very dim, and will burn for a long time. Back when traffic signals used incadesent lamps, they were 130v and rated 8,000 hours

 

[texie]

I guess you could rig it for a US socket but be advised it will not be NEC compliant. Luminaires must be NRTL listed.
But like Tom said, the way it is now, it will be very dim but the lamp will last forever.

 

[retirede]

I’d guess it’s an E27 base. US standard is E26. The number is the diameter in mm. I’ve seen LED bulbs advertised to fit both.

 

[James L]

Blue and Brown is Chinese color scheme.

As @retirede said, its most likely E27, whereas USA is E26

If you're gonna use it for 120v, use Blue for neutral and Brown for hot. That's what someone later should expect if they were familiar with that color combination

 

[Fred B]

Blue and Brown is Chinese color scheme.

As @retirede said, its most likely E27, whereas USA is E26

If you're gonna use it for 120v, use Blue for neutral and Brown for hot. That's what someone later should expect if they were familiar with that color combination

When I metered it that is what I found the blue went to the outer thread base. Typically neutral position. Another oddity I found is the wire exceptionally small guage only 20 awg. Would that have been normal for a higher voltage fixture?
So was that a European socket or another example of Chinese made garbage. Don't have any info on product providence, HO got it online from something like Ebay, (used).

I guess you could rig it for a US socket but be advised it will not be NEC compliant. Luminaires must be NRTL listed.
But like Tom said, the way it is now, it will be very dim but the lamp will last forever.

Now that you mentioned it I Saw no listing labeling on existing fixture.
Is there anyway to have it re-rigged legitimately and be NEC compliant?

 

[drcampbell]

... Another oddity I found is the wire exceptionally small gauge only 20 awg. Would that have been normal for a higher voltage fixture? ...

60 watts @ 230 volts is only a quarter amp. 20 AWG is actually overkill.

... So was that a European socket or another example of Chinese-made garbage. ... Is there anyway to have it re-rigged legitimately and be NEC compliant?

China and Europe (and Australia & New Zealand) use the same 230-volt/50Hz power and the same blue/brown color code.

The only way to be fully compliant would be to replace the socket and submit it to a certified testing lab for evaluation and an approval tag, which is likely to be prohibitively expensive. A best-practice approach, such as replacing the wiring with white/black 90°C TFFN fixture wire and relying on LED bulbs to keep the power dissipation & temperature down, will not be fully compliant without the tag, even if your local inspector grants a one-time exemption.

 

[James L]

When I metered it that is what I found the blue went to the outer thread base. Typically neutral position. Another oddity I found is the wire exceptionally small guage only 20 awg. Would that have been normal for a higher voltage fixture?
So was that a European socket or another example of Chinese made garbage. Don't have any info on product providence, HO got it online from something like Ebay, (used).

Probably Chinese. And I agree the 20-gauge wire is larger than needed

 

[Fred B]

60 watts @ 230 volts is only a quarter amp. 20 AWG is actually overkill.


China and Europe (and Australia & New Zealand) use the same 230-volt/50Hz power and the same blue/brown color code.

The only way to be fully compliant would be to replace the socket and submit it to a certified testing lab for evaluation and an approval tag, which is likely to be prohibitively expensive. A best-practice approach, such as replacing the wiring with white/black 90°C TFFN fixture wire and relying on LED bulbs to keep the power dissipation & temperature down, will not be fully compliant without the tag, even if your local inspector grants a one-time exemption.

We have a custom lighting mfg locally. Would they have the ability to have it evaluated and listed? Worth checking with them, or would it be safe enough to simply replace socket and get AHJ to ok it?
Anyone have any experience in getting custom re-rigged lighting? The fixture seems to be a very unique one that HO maybe willing to get it done right to be able to use. They did ask if I know anyone that can make it right.

 

[mbrooke]

I'd order a 120 volt or 110-265 volt LED bulb from Amazon and not worry about it. Make sure fixture is grounded.


Can you take pics of the bulb and socket?

 

[mbrooke]

I’d guess it’s an E27 base. US standard is E26. The number is the diameter in mm. I’ve seen LED bulbs advertised to fit both.

Your right, E27 is a good possibility.

 

[Fred B]

I'd order a 120 volt or 110-265 volt LED bulb from Amazon and not worry about it. Make sure fixture is grounded.


Can you take pics of the bulb and socket?

Screw thread portion separates from rest of base.

 

[mbrooke]

Looks like a Chinese knock off of a European E27 socket.

The recessed neutral terminal is normal btw.

 

[LarryFine]

That socket looks like it will "adapt" to different screw-shell sizes.

 

[Fred B]

So thoughts, if I was simply use a E27 bulb rated 120v and wired for 120v it should function with no retrofitting and violation?

 

[Fred B]

Also is the E27 hot (center) terminal a little deeper than "normal" bulbs? I know a "regular" bulb wont make contact on hot terminal. The existing bulb has a longer reach on center pin (more pointed) than a standard bulb.

 

[Besoeker3]

FWIW this is a 230 V UK bayonet cap (BC) light bulb I took today. LED 9.1W unit. And plenty light.

 

[James L]

I've seen e26 or e27 bulb with a centerpin that protrudes further from the threads. Something like this one...

https://smile.amazon.com/Bioluz-LED-Dimmable-Squirrel-Decoration/dp/B0741LVNGT/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=E26+LED+bulb&qid=1612623952&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNENBOUhPQ1pJWVNBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQ2NTgwM0lHNVJNVUFFSVdWTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDUyMTA1M1VMT01FTkZSNlk3NSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[Fred B]

FWIW this is a 230 V UK bayonet cap (BC) light bulb I took today. LED 9.1W unit. And plenty light.

Thanks but don't have bayonet style and dont have 2 pole power available at fixture so trying to get 120V bulb.

 

[mbrooke]

So thoughts, if I was simply use a E27 bulb rated 120v and wired for 120v it should function with no retrofitting and violation?

As long as the socket is of reasonable quality I think you'll be fine.