3 Pole non-fused 100A transfer switch 240V

[scrumi]

Does anyone have any good suggestions for a product that will fit this criteria? My local supply house is suggesting a $1000+ option but then when I look at options like the GE TC10323R which is 2 pole and $120, I'm wondering does an extra pole really have to be $900 more?

 

[adamscb]

That extra $900 isn't the third pole, it's likely due to the fact that the $1k+ option is an automatic transfer switch, while the $120 option is just a manual safety switch. Automatic transfer switches have built in electronics that will sense the loss of utility power, and then automatically start a generator and switch to the emergency source. It all depends on what you want the transfer switch to do.

I've been installing some automatic transfer switches in the plant I work at, and I recommend the Zenith ZTG series

http://apps.geindustrial.com/publibrary/checkout/PB-1201?TNR=Brochures|PB-1201|generic

 

[Jraef]

2 pole that cheap is "residential grade" stuff, 3 pole is going to be "industrial grade", made to different standards. Industrial grade heavy duty switches have to pass some nasty tests, i.e. opening under 300% load for 600 operations. Resi stuff is designed for occasional use, extra light duty.

From the GE catalog:

Type TC Outdoor Emergency Power Transfer Switches
—Designed for residential or light commercial applications where duty is not severe
—Suitable for use as service entrance equipment when installed in accordance with
National Electrical Code
—Wide range of interchangeable rain-tight conduit hubs available
—Plated copper current-carrying parts increase longevity and performance
—Bonding strap can be used to ground neutral for service entrance applications
—Positive make and break is provided by fiber loop straps between knife blade contacts
and one piece operating yoke (means it will not hold up to any abuse)
—Lockable three-position (ON-OFF-ON) handle
—Galvanized steel enclosure with drip shield
—60°C and 75°C conductor ratings
—Not quick-make, quick-break
Available 240VAC only, 3 pole only comes in 200A

Type TH Switches
—Designed for commercial and industrial applications where
safety, high performance and continuity of service are essential
—30-1200 amps
—600Vac maximum, 600Vdc maximum in fusible or non-fusible
units
—NEMA Type 1 (indoor), Type 3R (outdoor), Type 4/4X (water and
dust-tight, corrosion resistant) or Type 5/12 (drip and dust-tight)
enclosures
—Donut handle ideal for hook stick operation and accepts
3 padlocks in the OFF position
—Direct-drive, quick-make, quick-break mechanism “snaps” con-
tacts open and closed providing positive ON/OFF indication
—Self-leveling, three-point mounting system
—Coin-proof, defeatable interlock
—Visible confirmation of plated blade contact positions
—Spring reinforced fuse clips assure reliable contact for cool
operation. Suitable for Class H, K, J or R fuses, where applicable.
—With Class R fuses or J fuses, 30-600 amp switches have UL
Listed short circuit rating of 200,000 rms symmetrical amps
—Switches rated 800-1200 amps use Class L fuses and have a
UL Listed short circuit rating of 100,00 rms symmetrical amps
—UL Listed as service entrance equipment when installed in
accordance with the National Electric Code

 

[scrumi]

Ahh ya there is a decent jump up from 100A to 200A. I'm glad you found that information on the GE line it looks like there is about a $350 bump to add another pole judging on the price between a TC10424R & a TC10324R which are the same line.

I really am looking for light duty manual switch as I'm planning on throwing it two times per year only, and automatic isn't even applicable to this use case.

Is the TC10424R the best solution for that then?

I'm guessing I need a three pole to switch the neutral since I'm switching between to separate services and I don't think the neutrals can be bonded together. See attached one line, feedback/criticism on the design is welcome. The primary goal is that my solar NET metering setup is such that I want to switch my production between the two services depending on the time of year (irrigation season or not). There are so many damn over sized disconnects because I can't figure out how to get from 250MCM wire down to 1/0 or smaller while properly protecting the smaller wire without all the disconnects. Normally I thought going directly to a load center and using breakers was the way to do it then 705.12.(B)(2)(3) went and wrecked all my fun and looks like is going to cause me to spend a whole bunch of money and consume a crap ton of wall space. (I am building things out for an eventual 200A 3Phase panel in the shop, but since I have a 125A one already I'm just kicking that can down the street a few years.


View attachment Shop distribution layout.pdf