3 way switching

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tdawg

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Is IT possible for two sets of three way switches , 4 in all, to share the same travellers? They are controlling a 3 lamp fixture for inboard and outboard switching. The middle lamp will be the inboard and the outboard will be the 2 outside lamps. There was only one set of travellers 2 wires pulled from one double gang box to another double gang box for the travellers , so can they share the same travellers.
 
If you only have two conductors between the switch locations, then you don't even have enough there for a single three wire circuit. Are you sure you have the actual situation correctly described?

-Jon
 
Is this some sort of theroetical test style question?

If not are there hots everywhere and neutrals most places - and you are just mentioning the travelers? If so there is a way with say a Maestro and remote, or Lighoiler Multi-set dimmers +/or masters that only uses a signal wire for control. Other than that, Radio RA...
 
yes there are more wires

yes there are more wires

the hot is inside one switch box and the switchlegs are in the other , but there is 12-3 between the boxes meaning 2 are travelers and neutral. Lead electrician on job said to share the travellers I say thats wrong but he insists will work.
 
Edited, will not work... like Jim said, needs two sets of travellers... What will happen is the switches with the feed will end up energizing both travellers, thus causing the 3-ways on the other end to not turn off the lights.... draw it on paper you will see what I mean.... then show it too your lead guy.
 
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tdawg said:
Is IT possible for two sets of three way switches , 4 in all, to share the same travellers?
Is it POSSIBLE - sure.
Will it work the way you want it to - doubtful ;)</br>
 
celtic said:
Is it POSSIBLE - sure.
Will it work the way you want it to - doubtful ;)</br>

George could figure it out. If it involves 3-ways, I bow before the local minor deity of 3-way switchification.

Okay, here's a very likely highly illegal way to do it.

Get four big, phat, diodes. Identify the anodes and cathods. For the inboard lights, connect the anode to hot and the cathode to the "Common" terminal. Connect travellers as usual. To the other switch, connect the travellers, then the anode to common and cathode to wire going to fixture. For the outboard lights, connect the cathode to the same hot as the other first switch (meaning, same circuit) and the anode to the "Common" terminal. Connect the travellers, which will have been spliced from the other box or wherever, as usual. To the other switch, connect the travellers, then the cathode to the common and the anode to the wire going to the fixture. Be sure to use incandescent bulbs. Cheap ones, because they'll likely burn out often. And probably some RFI problems. And flickering. Let's not forget the flickering.

Oh, and DO NOT DO THIS.
 
Tdawg, how much money you looking to spend to have the walls in the same finish they are in now?

'Cause this is gonna cost ya...... :cool: (See links below and copy/paste and pull the space out of the w's)

w ww.lolcontrols.com/clientuploads/techdocs/87-0091B.pdf

Use one traveler as a hot to the load side box, and the other as a control wire. Use a master in the line side box and control wire for the other...

Or X-10

Or Radio RA
w ww.lutron.com/radiora/system_layout.asp?s=&t=

Or may them all one switch leg and switch all together and take a bite in the pants on the job...
 
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