30 amp RV/Camper Load Center

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Neil K

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Georgia
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Maintenance
Hello! I’m an electrical student enrolled in a local trade school so I’m new to much of this. I do have a decent grasp on the electrical fundamentals of AC but I have run across something that I’m not confident about and was hoping someone might help me clear my brain fog about.
A friend of mine is remodeling a small 12’ camper and we’ve been talking about how to wire it. There won’t be any low voltage circuits, just 120 VAC throughout the camper. He’s planning on putting in:

5000 BTU ac unit- 540 watts
Microwave - 1300 watts
a small fridge - 240 watts
lights - ~40 watts

I believe all of this could be on one 20 amp circuit but my friend is worried that the microwave might be too much so he’s wanting a dedicated microwave circuit.
I did some light research on which load center would work best on a small budget. I’ve found online that many people who are doing small RV remodels and cargo trailer conversions are using a Square D QO 30 amp 2-space 2-circuit load center. It’s usually less than $20 at Home Depot. I felt this was a effective way to go and it’s what I suggested to him. But I’m havsecond thoughts about it.

What I’m not confident about is how it is wired. I do understand how a traditional main or sub panel is wired and this one will be wired as a sub with the neutrals and grounds separate. However, if you want to use both breaker spaces and have 2 separate circuits would it be effective (and safe) to use use a #10 jumper across the 2 main lugs? There will only be one 120 VAC leg coming into the panel. Is this considered wiring the breakers in parallel by jumpering the lugs? Yes I know this isn’t “legal”, and I know it’s not a balanced system. Where I get confused at is wondering if we truly have total of 30 amps of OCP (15 for each circuit), or 15 overall for both circuits, or will each circuit now have 30 amps of OCP.
Any ideas, criticism, or suggestions will be welcome. I’m still learning and trying to make the safest suggestions possible. Thanks in advance!
 
Hello! I’m an electrical student enrolled in a local trade school so I’m new to much of this. I do have a decent grasp on the electrical fundamentals of AC but I have run across something that I’m not confident about and was hoping someone might help me clear my brain fog about.
A friend of mine is remodeling a small 12’ camper and we’ve been talking about how to wire it. There won’t be any low voltage circuits, just 120 VAC throughout the camper. He’s planning on putting in:

5000 BTU ac unit- 540 watts
Microwave - 1300 watts
a small fridge - 240 watts
lights - ~40 watts

I believe all of this could be on one 20 amp circuit
I doubt it. I would go with a 30A 120V tt-30
Do you have a code book?
And if so have you looked at article 551?
See 551.42 & 551.44
 
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I doubt it. I would go with a 30A 120V tt-30
Do you have a code book?
And if so have you looked at article 551?
See 551.42 & 551.44
Thanks gene6! I do have a 2020 code book And I just looked at the articles you suggested. Thanks for the insight. I didn’t realize there was a section on RV’s. I’ll dive deeper in to that for sure.
The TT-30 is just a receptacle right?
I’m thinking he’s wanting to hardwire his shore power cable directly into the load center on the camper. He said he’s going to make a small exterior compartment to store it in.
 
Hardwiring the shore power cable to the panel is fine, but keep in mind the panel is 120/240, shore power cable will be 120 only. A jumper will be required to power both busses in the panel.
 
Hardwiring the shore power cable to the panel is fine, but keep in mind the panel is 120/240, shore power cable will be 120 only. A jumper will be required to power both busses in the panel.
Thanks hillbilly1. Using a jumper was part of my original question. I was just having a hard time wrapping my head around using a single 120 VAC circuit to power both A and B sides of the panel. I’m probably overthinking it but I wasn’t sure if it might diminish (or increase) the rated overcurrent protection at the load center on the camper, or have some negative effect on it. I’m thinking it won’t but I just thought I’d throw it out there.
 
There are 120 v 30 a rv power distribution centers widely used in RVs. Might be less money than a resi load enter. Check with local rv dealer or e trailer.
 
Thanks hillbilly1. Using a jumper was part of my original question. I was just having a hard time wrapping my head around using a single 120 VAC circuit to power both A and B sides of the panel. I’m probably overthinking it but I wasn’t sure if it might diminish (or increase) the rated overcurrent protection at the load center on the camper, or have some negative effect on it. I’m thinking it won’t but I just thought I’d throw it out there.
By jumping them together you don't really have an A and B side anymore you effectively created one bus with two places to plug on breakers. As mentioned the main lugs likely not rated for more than one conductor so you probably need a conductor to each lug and some other method to tie them together along with the supply conductor.
 
If this unit will be actually used as a camper, you should install a RV converter unit. The converter will supply 12 VDC for the lights and have a small 120VAC breaker panel.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk
 
If this unit will be actually used as a camper, you should install a RV converter unit. The converter will supply 12 VDC for the lights and have a small 120VAC breaker panel.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk
Yeah that was my first thought too and probably the safest. The person who owns the camper and I were just kicking around options on how to best do it. I appreciate all the ideas given here.
 
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