320 meter with 2-150 amp panels

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lucky1974

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Michigan
Hi, I am wondering if this is possible. Don't see any reason why it can't be done. if I go this route with 150 panels 4/0 alum se is good.( wall is insulated. ) Then I don't have to hard pipe and pull 3/0 copper for 200 amp panels. What would water pipe ground be with 4/0 alum and 2-150 panels. Don't have a code book with me. Thanks
 
Hi, I am wondering if this is possible. Don't see any reason why it can't be done. if I go this route with 150 panels 4/0 alum se is good.( wall is insulated. ) Then I don't have to hard pipe and pull 3/0 copper for 200 amp panels. What would water pipe ground be with 4/0 alum and 2-150 panels. Don't have a code book with me. Thanks
2/0 aluminum would even be good.

You can have up to six service disconnecting means of any rating, as long as the load calculation doesn't exceed the rating of the common supply - which includes the meter socket.
 
not sure how this is answered - question seems to vague -- which code are you on 2014/2017? what is your service conductor size to meter?
 
You will need 4/0 if the se cable is rated 60C however in more recent codes se cable may be used at 75C in many cases
 
I am in Michigan so we are under 2014 NEC. I am going to use 4/0 aluminum Se cable.( Because of having insulation and using 60 c column. I am thinking #4 copper ground to water pipe. Is this correct. Also when doing the water pipe ground and 2 ground rods, do I take to one panel and just jump a ground wire to the next panel. I have never done a service with 2 panels. I am kind of out of my wheelhouse a bit.
 
No you do not "jump" the neutral buss's together.

The grounding electrode conductor originates from one of the 150 amp panels (200 Amp? )neural installed continuous to the grounding electrode.

The second 150 amp Panel (200 Amp ? ) will have a grounding electrode conductor originate at that panels neutral and tap the continuous grounding electrode conductor from the first panel
 
Make sure your supplier stocks 150 amp panels. In my area they don't exist and would cost twice as much as a 200 amp panel
 
No you do not "jump" the neutral buss's together.

The grounding electrode conductor originates from one of the 150 amp panels (200 Amp? )neural installed continuous to the grounding electrode.

The second 150 amp Panel (200 Amp ? ) will have a grounding electrode conductor originate at that panels neutral and tap the continuous grounding electrode conductor from the first panel


So after wiring the ground rods and water pipe. What is the best way to "tap" the ground from the remaining panel. Thanks for the help guys
 
They are readily available at Home Depot in Michigan and Ohio. They only cost a few bucks more than a comparable 200A panel. You'd think the 200A would cost more, but whatever.
I have been able to purchase 150 amp main breaker loadcenters from my Square D distributor without much trouble. Price may vary from similar 200 but not by an additional 50%.

For them to have a particular model in the local store may not always be possible, but they have nearly everything in the catalog in stock in a store someplace, sort of depends on demand as far as what you will find and at which stores it will be stocked.
 
So after wiring the ground rods and water pipe. What is the best way to "tap" the ground from the remaining panel. Thanks for the help guys
Around here we are allowed to install our grounding electrode conductor into the meter base and that is all that you need. If you can't then either run 2 runs of the grounding electrode conductor to the electrode or size one for the 300 amp service and split bolt to the other panel
 
Around here we are allowed to install our grounding electrode conductor into the meter base and that is all that you need. If you can't then either run 2 runs of the grounding electrode conductor to the electrode or size one for the 300 amp service and split bolt to the other panel

I've noticed that too. In Tennessee, we are also allowed to connect the GEC to the ground terminal in the meter base. But up in Ohio and Michigan, it's connected to the ground terminal inside of the service panel. I don't understand what the difference is, or why the inspectors up north would disallow it to be connected to the meter base? Does the 2/0 neutral conductor not run directly from the neutral lug on the meter base to that of the panel? Are both lugs not directly bonded to the respective grounding terminals? (Yes, and yes). It just makes sense that way.
 
I've noticed that too. In Tennessee, we are also allowed to connect the GEC to the ground terminal in the meter base. But up in Ohio and Michigan, it's connected to the ground terminal inside of the service panel. I don't understand what the difference is, or why the inspectors up north would disallow it to be connected to the meter base? Does the 2/0 neutral conductor not run directly from the neutral lug on the meter base to that of the panel? Are both lugs not directly bonded to the respective grounding terminals? (Yes, and yes). It just makes sense that way.

There can be 2 arguments. The first is that many power company's will not allow the grounding electrode conductor in the meter base and another is that the electrical inspector's may turn it down because after it is sealed it is not accessible. The latter, IMO, is not a valid argument as you never have to get to it and it is accessible but it may be troublesome to get to.
 
Around here we are allowed to install our grounding electrode conductor into the meter base and that is all that you need. If you can't then either run 2 runs of the grounding electrode conductor to the electrode or size one for the 300 amp service and split bolt to the other panel


Dennis, I thought the gec had to be irreversible spliced. I guess I will just split bolt it and see what inspector says. I was just hoping to not have to cadweld it.
 
Dennis, I thought the gec had to be irreversible spliced. I guess I will just split bolt it and see what inspector says. I was just hoping to not have to cadweld it.
"The" GEC needs to be continuous or irreversibly spliced. But all but one section is likely to be considered bonding jumpers rather than GECs.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Dennis, I thought the gec had to be irreversible spliced. I guess I will just split bolt it and see what inspector says. I was just hoping to not have to cadweld it.
The connection to the service equipment and the connection to the electrode do not need to be irreversible, but any splice in the "primary" grounding electrode conductor does need to be an irreversible connection.

"Bonding jumpers" to other electrodes can be spliced, and even spliced onto the main GEC as long as the method used doesn't involve cutting the GEC. So you can run an unspliced GEC to the water pipe electrode and use a split bolt to make a bonding jumper to the CEE or a ground rod as long as you leave the GEC intact in the process.
 
Around here we are allowed to install our grounding electrode conductor into the meter base and that is all that you need. If you can't then either run 2 runs of the grounding electrode conductor to the electrode or size one for the 300 amp service and split bolt to the other panel

Here some use the meter base option for the grounding electrode conductor to the ground rods but I never seen that option to the metal water pipe bond or grounding electrode connection

Dennis, I thought the gec had to be irreversible spliced. I guess I will just split bolt it and see what inspector says. I was just hoping to not have to cadweld it.

"The" GEC needs to be continuous or irreversibly spliced. But all but one section is likely to be considered bonding jumpers rather than GECs.Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

The tap connection to the continuous grounding electrode conductor here is considered a grounding electrode conductor but has never been required to be an irreversible splice. Taps have always been done with split bolts here
 
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