8/3 & 6/3 NM Cable

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Sparky32297

Member
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right here
Is there somewhere in the code that requires an 8/3 or 6/3 NM cable to enter a box with an approved fitting? Or can these wires enter a plastic box when secured with 12 " of entrance to box ?
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
300.15 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings ? Where Required.
A box shall be installed at each outlet and switch point for concealed knob-and-tube wiring.
Fittings and connectors shall be used only with the specific wiring methods for which they are designed and listed.
 

Cavie

Senior Member
Location
SW Florida
I'm gonna guess you are asking about 2 gang boxes for ranges. There needs to be a connector for these large cables asa SparkyHC has pointed out and the box must be manufactured with knockouts. You cannot make one.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Check out the Carlon B234ADJC box. It's a 2g adjustable-depth with a KO and clamp in the side opposite the stud side. I staple the cable to the facing stud and curve it right into the KO.
 

macmikeman

Senior Member
Deep 4-11/16 metal box with appropriate depth 2 gang ring, and grounding pigtail. Anything else is more problems than its worth in my book. If it's a range, I usually install the ring sideways now instead of facing up and down, cause it makes for plugging in a 4 wire pigtail for a range a whole lot easier.
 

jaylectricity

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
licensed journeyman electrician
Deep 4-11/16 metal box with appropriate depth 2 gang ring, and grounding pigtail. Anything else is more problems than its worth in my book. If it's a range, I usually install the ring sideways now instead of facing up and down, cause it makes for plugging in a 4 wire pigtail for a range a whole lot easier.

Can you describe to me what you mean? Are you talking about the conductors going into the device or the cord coming from the appliance?
 
I used to work for an electrician who always left the 8/3 long enough to stick out of the wall a few feet at the bottom of the floor. Then attach a surface mount range receptacle to the end of the romex and it's easy to plug it in under the range drawer.
 

macmikeman

Senior Member
I used to work for an electrician who always left the 8/3 long enough to stick out of the wall a few feet at the bottom of the floor. Then attach a surface mount range receptacle to the end of the romex and it's easy to plug it in under the range drawer.

That was then. Now the real estate for range receptacles has shrunk on many models. Lately there are lots showing up on my jobs with a bread warmer bin at the bottom where the drawer used to sit. The back is covered leaving no access to the receptacle outlet, and therefore it does not meet code. Also many ovens now have the center offset to flush with the back of the oven so that you only can put the receptacle into a small space on either side of that obstruction, and flush receptacles are about the only way to get the whole thing to work. Of course there are still ovens that do not have those problems, but like I said, now I see plenty that do.:mad:
 

jumper

Senior Member
Some 2 gang boxes have an opening big enough for an 8/3 romex - so just wondered

I rarely work with romex or plastic boxes anymore, so my advice is limited. The standard 2 gang nail on box seems to be something like this:

034481100300lg.jpg


The largest cable I have been able to get in one of these without destroying the clamp is 10/3 for a dryer. I do not even have a clue if the clamp is listed for a larger cable.

Most of of the resi range receptacles I have put in were with 6/3 and a 50 amp breaker and installed in a metal box and mud ring or surface mounted.

If I were to install a plastic box for a range today, I would use the box Larry suggested. It has a extra clamp made for a range cable.

box.jpg
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Yeah, but then you have to bend that #10 EGC around a grounding screw in the box.


That sounds too much like work. :roll:
 

macmikeman

Senior Member
Yeah, but then you have to bend that #10 EGC around a grounding screw in the box.


That sounds too much like work. :roll:

I just use the green #12 pigtails sold by the bag at wholesale houses and barrel crimp to the incoming EG conductor. "Macmike posts, then ducks and runs from sound of incoming missile fire...."
 
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