820.100 CATV Bonding and Grounding

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I have a question regarding the 2014 revision. It states that the coax shielding can be bonded to the grounding electrode system. Does this mean that an electrician can run a #14 or better out from the ground bar in the panel for us to hook a ground block to. This is for a lazy resort option if nothing else is available for us. Thank you
 
It states that the coax shielding can be bonded to the grounding electrode system.

No. It MUST be bonded to the grounding electrode system. And its always been that way.

In new construction and with a service change the EC must install a ground block outside near the service entrance. This is for the phone company and cable company to connect their ground bonds. So really, the answer to your question is yes, the ground from inside is required.

If no ground block then connect to the grounding electrode conductor going to the ground rod, or the ground rod itself.

Metallic conduit on either side of the meter or the meter enclosure itself is also fair game for a ground strap or clamp.

-Hal
 
I have a question regarding the 2014 revision. It states that the coax shielding can be bonded to the grounding electrode system. Does this mean that an electrician can run a #14 or better out from the ground bar in the panel for us to hook a ground block to. This is for a last resort option if nothing else is available for us. Thank you
This was supposed to be last resort, not lazy
 
This was supposed to be last resort not lazy. Was seeing if that was another option, some places the meter is too far or there are other obstacles. A lot of old farm houses the ground is no where near the house panel, and some dont have metallic conduit.
 
Not supposed to be the last resort. It's the first resort.

Was seeing if that was another option, some places the meter is too far or there are other obstacles. A lot of old farm houses the ground is no where near the house panel, and some dont have metallic conduit.

Yeah well, after being in your shoes for many years you won't get any sympathy. What you are SUPPOSED to do is run your drop to a location near the other utilities so you can utilize the ground. Then run your cables from there to where they have to go.

Your other option, if it is impossible to hit the building with the other utilities, is to drive a 5/8" x 8ft ground rod below your attachment and ground block then bond that rod back to the service ground as usual. That means running a ground wire (#6) either around the building or buried- however you can do it.

So take your choice. Run RG6s around the building or run one #6 copper.

-Hal
 
So those are not an option this is an example.

Electricity comes to the property then hits an electrical ped with the meter, this a pressure treated board setup.

Then it goes underground 50 feet to the house, once hitting the house, still in schedule 40 conduit, it goes directly in to the electrical panel.

So nothing is exposed for us, where do you ground, this not a new setup, just something that people run into from time to time where it been bonded at the electrical ped then ran to the house 50 feet away.

So nothing is exposed and nothing to bond to at the house.

Could a no. 14 awg or better be ran into the electrical panel by an electrician for us to hook to our ground block to? Is the 6 in or more of 6 awg of copper conductor ok to hook onto without the 6 awg going to an electrode? Or do we have to have attach an IBT directly to the electrical panel.
 
Could a no. 14 awg or better be ran into the electrical panel by an electrician for us to hook to our ground block to?

As I said, the answer is yes. Matter of fact the Code requires it in new construction and service upgrades. Electrician is supposed to provide a ground block outside for you. You just connect your #14 from it to your ground block. Easy peasy.

Nothing says that you can't have an electrician install one if there is none.


Is the 6 in or more of 6 awg of copper conductor ok to hook onto without the 6 awg going to an electrode? Or do we have to have attach an IBT directly to the electrical panel.

Either would be acceptable.

-Hal
 
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