Adding Recepts/Switches in Existing Log Cabin

W

WayUpNort

Member
Location
Northern Minnesota
Occupation
Master Electricain, Business Owner
Good morning,

I have been approached to do some work in an old log cabin. Owner wants me to move the electrical panel, and obviously in doing so I will also have to bring the rest of the cabin up to code. Most of the existing wiring is a black nm cable carrying 120v stapled in the chinking with zero protection. Clearly not safe.

I can go into more detail, but i have a couple of questions.

Lighting: If I change the lighting to be 48v, would I be able to theoretically re use the existing wiring? Obviously, that has its own difficulties, but i want to know if its even worth digging into before suggesting all new fixtures/low voltage wiring.

Recepts: The cabin has a very nice crawlspace, and I can get underneath the exterior walls. I am tempted to use floor boxes as much as I can, but I am considering providing the owner with an option to cut in some receptacles into the logs. I have never done that before, any words of caution? tools that help the process? just fold and use wiremold or equivalent?

I have been asked to just produce ballpark pricing, and I don't plan on bidding it, this will probably be a T&M job.

Ive been staring at this for a while, so its possible I'm overlooking providing a specific detail that I'm not clarifying, but all opinions are welcome. Thanks.
 
Drilling the logs will take some accuracy, new log cabins, they drill the first log from the top, then router or chisel out a hole for a cut in box. It can be done that way from the bottom, but not as easy. The switches are usually ran in the door frame, then drilled sideways to a hole with x amount of cut in boxes. Runs to the lights are protected by wiremold. Since most lighting is LED, you can probably get away with the 48 vdc. Just remember your amperage will be over double than that of 120 volt circuit.
 
Look into pvc jacketed mc cable it'll be protected and you can then hit a deep wiremould box with it. Run a ring around the room with some switched 12 3. It doesn't need the wet rated fittings if it's indoors just outdoors so regular fittings are allowed. Other option would be use these with IR covers. You can paint all the hardware black too.1000005955.jpg
 
In no particular order:

Use Wiremold boxes very low on the walls and Wiremold or nothing into the crawl space.

If the outside can be ugly, penetrate the wall at each outlet location and run conduit outside.
 
biggest issue with log structures is the wall structure is somewhat floating subject to quit a bit of expansion contraction, even though it will not be so much after many years it still gets seasonal movement. Doors and windows are set in a channel that allows for the movement. Wiring method also has to make accommodation for this movement. Drilling or channeling usually best, and need to give enough wire for movement in both directions. This also makes "securing" the wire a challenge. Definitely wouldn't put wiring in the door channel because of movement and subject to damage and likely not deep enough to be 1.25 inches
 
LarryFine said:
In no particular order:

Use Wiremold boxes very low on the walls and Wiremold or nothing into the crawl space.

If the outside can be ugly, penetrate the wall at each outlet location and run conduit outside.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, the outside cannot be ugly. I have considered low wiremold boxes, perhaps mounted sideways, near/against the floor on the first course of logs and punch down.
 
hillbilly1 said:
Drilling the logs will take some accuracy, new log cabins, they drill the first log from the top, then router or chisel out a hole for a cut in box. It can be done that way from the bottom, but not as easy. The switches are usually ran in the door frame, then drilled sideways to a hole with x amount of cut in boxes. Runs to the lights are protected by wiremold. Since most lighting is LED, you can probably get away with the 48 vdc. Just remember your amperage will be over double than that of 120 volt circuit.
Click to expand...
Seems reasonable, thank you for the tips
 
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