Anchoring to concrete-preferred method?

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sw_ross

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What is your preferred method for anchoring something heavy (in this case it’s an Generac 3-phase ATS) to a concrete or block wall?
 
It will entirely depend on the condition of the block wall. If the wall is grouted and essentially solid, Red Head anchors are probably a good choice as long as the block isn't soft and crumbly. If it's hollow, toggle-style anchors are probably better since an expanding Red Head will likely fracture the block face. Can you through-bolt with pieces of threaded rod? We had to do that at a building where the block walls were extremely soft.

If the ATS is heavy, consider putting Unistrut legs on it that extend to and rest on the floor. Then tag the strut runs back to the wall. That way, the Unistrut is carrying the vertical loads, and the anchors only have to hold everything to the wall. Bonus: you get Unistrut to secure conduits.



SceneryDriver
 
In a block wall i wouldnt trust tap-cons, and expanding anchors aren't a good idea on hollow CMU walls. Toggle style as mentioned above would be my choice.
If its a concrete filled CMU wall, then sleeve expanding anchors
 
I used to use machine screw type lead anchors which require a setting tool, but not so much lately. Nowadays these are made with a zinc alloy such as Zamac instead of lead, even though they still often call them lead anchors.

One thing I found with Tapcons is that in concrete you need to drill a hole that's at least 3/4" deeper than the length of the screw. This is to leave some space for small concrete fragments that get pushed back as the Tapcon is screwed in. Otherwise, such fragments can interfere with getting the screw fully seated. This can then require considerably more torque and sometimes cause the Tapcon to strip out. I haven't had that problem when the hole is drilled deep enough.
 
I prefer hilti adhesive anchos, or Simpson strong tie. Typically 1/16 larger hole, I has SS all tread cut to 4 1/2” long. I would have a bit oversize hole in equipment, set equipment, drill holes, clean out dust, inject afhesive, then studs. Perfect fit every time.
Advantage of adhesive is the load is distributed along length of stud instead of a point load like exp bolt.
On expansion bolts if it doesn’t tighten, then what?
I had a lot of pad mount cabinets we would pour concrete and could set adhesive anchors into green concrete the next day.
I also found adhesive anchors with screen tubes best solution for hollow concrete block
 
tom baker said:
I prefer hilti adhesive anchos, or Simpson strong tie. Typically 1/16 larger hole, I has SS all tread cut to 4 1/2” long. I would have a bit oversize hole in equipment, set equipment, drill holes, clean out dust, inject afhesive, then studs. Perfect fit every time.
Advantage of adhesive is the load is distributed along length of stud instead of a point load like exp bolt.
On expansion bolts if it doesn’t tighten, then what?
I had a lot of pad mount cabinets we would pour concrete and could set adhesive anchors into green concrete the next day.
I also found adhesive anchors with screen tubes best solution for hollow concrete block
Click to expand...
+1...plus, in cold climates it isn't going to be prone to freeze cracking in the hole.
 
jaggedben said:
A poured concrete wall and a block wall may need totally different solutions.
Click to expand...
For hollow block walls many anchors don't work well unless you can drill into the solid portion of the block. On the hollows we use toggle bolts. Same with old gypsum block walls, find the hollows and use a toggle bolt.
 
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