Ansul system conduit joint Q

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sw_ross

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Just a quick question.
The hinged joint on the conduit for a Ansul system (conduit is EMT 1/2”) (joints have a set screw for conduit), are those sealed up? How hard would it be to disassemble a section of conduit and relocate it then install new conductors?

I tried to take a picture but it wouldn’t upload.

Thanks!
 
I have done many Ansul systems, but don't understand what you mean by "hinged joints" in the conduit.

Are you talking about the sealed pulleys that the mechanical wire rope uses, the lead links, pull stations, etc?
 
Just a quick question.
The hinged joint on the conduit for a Ansul system (conduit is EMT 1/2”) (joints have a set screw for conduit), are those sealed up? How hard would it be to disassemble a section of conduit and relocate it then install new conductors?

I tried to take a picture but it wouldn’t upload.

Thanks!

Are you talking about corner pulleys?

Ansul corner pulley 01.jpg
 
gadfly I think you are correct and those are for the activation cable, not conductors.

Roger
 
gadfly I think you are correct and those are for the activation cable, not conductors.

Roger

Yeah, you start pulling conductors in that EMT and you're going to have a tough go of it. Unless you just cut the cable and remove it. :happysad:
 
Yes

Yes

That's exactly what I'm referring to!
So that's a cable system... Gotcha.
Guess I don't have to worry about re-routing it. We were just concerned about the conduit getting heated up by a couple of pizza ovens they want to install.
Shouldn't be an issue if it's just mechanical.
Thanks!
 
That's exactly what I'm referring to!
So that's a cable system... Gotcha.
Guess I don't have to worry about re-routing it. We were just concerned about the conduit getting heated up by a couple of pizza ovens they want to install.
Shouldn't be an issue if it's just mechanical.
Thanks!

Yes, it's a cable system. Depending on the components, it's either under tension (gas valve, fusible links, sometimes the pull station) or slack (pull station, with some exceptions). There is a 1/16" or 3/64" stainless steel aircraft cable running inside. If you were unfortunate enough to release the tension on the cable, you would activate the suppression system. It's not fun to clean up.
 
In fact, you should not mess with them at all. They're for qualified mechanical contractors to work on.

Actually, in NJ, for example, they are for qualified fire protection contractors to work on. To touch one, you need a "P" license from the Department of Community Affairs. You can see more here.
 
I don't plan to touch it! Thanks for the info. I have limited experience with Ansul systems, but have been learning about them through posts on this sight!

Thanks all, especially LarryFine!
 
Thanks all, especially LarryFine!
You're welcome. A lot of my experience has been re-wiring existing systems to comply with new operational requirements. Many older systems were wired to merely activate the exhaust fans, and one often needs to be creative to add new requirements using only a pair of micro-switches.

For example, shut-down of make-up air fans, appliances, and lights, as well as gas-valve reset boxes and solenoids, or temperature probes and timers, etc. Often, figuring out how the existing system is wired is half the game, and equally often, no Ansul control box was originally installed.
 
You're welcome. A lot of my experience has been re-wiring existing systems to comply with new operational requirements. Many older systems were wired to merely activate the exhaust fans, and one often needs to be creative to add new requirements using only a pair of micro-switches.

For example, shut-down of make-up air fans, appliances, and lights, as well as gas-valve reset boxes and solenoids, or temperature probes and timers, etc. Often, figuring out how the existing system is wired is half the game, and equally often, no Ansul control box was originally installed.

The Ansul Auto-Man controller can accept up to 4 micro switches. That will reduce the amount of creativity you need to employ. Almost any company dealing with kitchen suppression systems can get them for you, and I think they're about $20 a pop.

If no controller was originally installed, what was running the suppression system? Or are you doing hood work in something without a suppression system?
 
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