Are these allowed inside a service panel?

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

jeff48356

Senior Member
Location
Livonia, Michigan
I did a service upgrade today and found that the wires for the kitchen range were too short to reach the new breaker. Easy fix if they were copper, but unfortunately they are aluminum. I used two dual-rated split-bolt connectors and put each wire, along with a #8 copper conductor to attach to the breaker. I wrapped each up with electrical tape (the premium grade, like for outdoor service connections). Would these be allowed in the panel like shown in the pic below? Or is my only Code-compliant option to replace the cable with a new 8-3 Romex (which means also upgrading the receptacle and cord to 4-wire)?
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0314.jpg
    IMAG0314.jpg
    137.5 KB · Views: 138
Or is my only Code-compliant option to replace the cable with a new 8-3 Romex (which means also upgrading the receptacle and cord to 4-wire)?
Click to expand...

Check out 250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers. Exception

~RJ~
 
I was taught to put on several layers of rubber tape first and then cover that with premium vinyl tape. It's important to wrap the tape in such a way that the tension does not pull it away from the surface you're trying to insulate. You can also use heat shrink tubing.
 
sameguy said:
I was taught 3 tape wrapping.
Click to expand...
Same here, old school, for large split bolts in particular. After repeated alternating tightening and banging with a hammer, wrapping first with cambric, then rubber tape, then friction tape.
 
jeff48356 said:
I did a service upgrade today and found that the wires for the kitchen range were too short to reach the new breaker. Easy fix if they were copper, but unfortunately they are aluminum. I used two dual-rated split-bolt connectors and put each wire, along with a #8 copper conductor to attach to the breaker. I wrapped each up with electrical tape (the premium grade, like for outdoor service connections). Would these be allowed in the panel like shown in the pic below? Or is my only Code-compliant option to replace the cable with a new 8-3 Romex (which means also upgrading the receptacle and cord to 4-wire)?
Click to expand...

Use Burndy insulation in-line splices, with these there is no need to tape them.
 
jeff48356 said:
I did a service upgrade today and found that the wires for the kitchen range were too short to reach the new breaker. Easy fix if they were copper, but unfortunately they are aluminum. I used two dual-rated split-bolt connectors and put each wire, along with a #8 copper conductor to attach to the breaker. I wrapped each up with electrical tape (the premium grade, like for outdoor service connections). Would these be allowed in the panel like shown in the pic below? Or is my only Code-compliant option to replace the cable with a new 8-3 Romex (which means also upgrading the receptacle and cord to 4-wire)?
Click to expand...
The splices are compliant, but the 3-wire must either be SE or have an insulated grounded conductor, or be replaced with a 4-wire. And that assumes the panel is the Service Equipment.
 
Thanks, guys! I'll leave it the way it is for now, and hopefully it will pass inspection on Monday. If not, I'll have to change everything to 4-wire and charge the customer extra. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that.
 
jeff48356 said:
Thanks, guys! I'll leave it the way it is for now, and hopefully it will pass inspection on Monday. If not, I'll have to change everything to 4-wire and charge the customer extra. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that.
Click to expand...

Unless there is a formal local amendment or your inspector makes up his own rules why would you think you would have to change it?

Roger
 
Curiously, I just had this same issue. I did a panel swap in my house, and the 50A circuit for the electric range (4-wire, #6) has a neutral that is just too darn short to reach the neutral bus inside the new panel. The other leads were all fine (the two hots can reach the breaker fine, and the ground is long enough). It's all copper. I used a copper split bolt to add on some white #6 to the neutral wire, wrapped it in rubber tape and then electrical tape. The only thing I don't like about this is that you have this black taped up "golf ball". We'll find out what the inspector does next week when he comes, and I'll report back. Yes, it's allowed by the NEC, but the inspector doesn't really KNOW what you have under that ball of tape. So I'm wondering if he's going to insist that I unwrap it to show him before he'll pass it.

I shall report back.

Oh, and not to "pile on", but I agree that the taping job on those two splices needs a little work. The tape should be tight and neat,
and I see some loosey goosey wraps on there.
 
So... here's the update. The inspector passed my new panel, and didn't question the split-bolt splice at all, even though it is a taped up balland he just had to "believe me" when I told him that there was a copper split bolt connector inside there. I can't say that all inspectors will treat this the same. But this guy had no problem with it.

He did say that the panel was neat, and he was glad I labeled all the breakers on the door index. I think doing a neat job has a lot to do with this. I know if I were doing the inspection, I'd get a "vibe" about how good a job the person did by looking at how neat, orderly, and otherwise "correct" all the rest of the panel is if I had to judge an unseen thing like a split bolt connector.
 
When I inspected our buildings I always told the guys if I come in in here and find loose set screws and locknuts I'm gonna wonder what else you screwed up....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top