jm1470 said:Yesterday I had to upgrade 100 amp service to 200 amp I got the new service on the house. When I went to hookup the new service to the service drop I got zap. I use insulated pliers and must of touch one of the wires. I was wondering If there was a tool for this purpose.
I think the answer is yes. Everyone assumes the equipment is hot until it is proved dead and locked out . . . don't they? :-?bphgravity said:Did you know you were working on energized equipment?
jm1470 said:I use insulated pliers and must of touch one of the wires.
jm1470 said:I use insulated pliers and must of touch one of the wires. I was wondering
jm1470 said:If there was a tool for this purpose.
zog said:Great post celtic, I have preached about what an insulated tool is for years, electrical tape on it dosent count either.
Please read all of the notes associated with the tables in NFPA70E. My reference was specific to the text of paragraph 130.7(C)(9)(a) and note #1 of Table 130.7(C)(9)(a).Can you elaborate on this? Company I work for is trying to bring everyone up to speed on NFPA70E. We have had talks about different voltages and the diff. PPE required to work on it hot, but I was not aware of the 2 cycle thing that you mentioned. Any explanation or ref. would be appreciated. As of now, the resi department taps there own services when they complete a service upgrade.
jm1470 said:Yesterday I had to upgrade 100 amp service to 200 amp I got the new service on the house. When I went to hookup the new service to the service drop I got zap. I use insulated pliers and must of touch one of the wires. I was wondering If there was a tool for this purpose.
jm1470 said:Yesterday I had to upgrade 100 amp service to 200 amp I got the new service on the house. When I went to hookup the new service to the service drop I got zap. I use insulated pliers and must of touch one of the wires. I was wondering If there was a tool for this purpose.
zog said:Great post celtic, I have preached about what an insulated tool is for years, electrical tape on it dosent count either.
Fulthrotl said:there are means and methods, none of which are approved under
the guidelines for arc flash protection.
based on my experience, you are working with hot cables that
are fused at a high enough level that it really doesn't matter to
you personally. by the time the circuit relays, you're gonna be toast.
if you are self employed, that's one thing... but if you are an employee
of a licensed contractor, his liability in directing you to perform this
work is unlimited, both civilly and criminally.
if you should light yourself up, and are maimed or killed, he's looking
at a wrongful death lawsuit, and criminal charges for either reckless
endangerment, or manslaughter.
time to get the public utility to kill the feed to the house... it's a royal
pain, but so's dying.
randy
cschmid said:How does safety change from being self employeed to being employeed by others....:-?
the only pain in death is thoughs left behind..
zog said:Rubber gloves and arc flash PPE
I have done that but not on an aluminum ladder. I used a ladder with aluminum rungs with fiberglass rails. In those days (1975 to 1980), leather was considered good for 600 volts. Leather does work well until the gloves are damp with sweat or rain. At that point, you may as well be working bare handed. For all the complaining about 70E and OSHA, a multitude of lives have been saved because of them and people like Zog. :smile:nolabama said:. . . made up a hot drop in the rain on an aluminum ladder
roger3829 said:In Connecticut, any licensed electrician can cut and tap any residential service.
Have been doing it for 30 years.
Never had a problem
Nope, the dead ones are retired electricians. They don't take service calls anymore. :smile:zog said:. . . 3. Dead