Baffled by light not working

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GerryB

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I went to a customers house to put a light back someone took down. I hung it and noticed it had 4 wires, green, brown, blue and black. I had cut a piece off so I looked at it and saw the brown and blue twisted together.Hooked up black to line, blue and brown to neutral green to ground, nothing.Tried other combos, nothing. To complicate things she told me the fixture is European. Also it has candelabra adapters in each socket (6) because the threads on the European bulbs are different.After much frustration I opened the wiring compartment on the light. Green bonded to metal. Blue spliced to 6 other blue wires, one to each socket. Black spliced to 3 blacks, one to every other socket, brown spliced to 3 other black wires, also to every other socket (the other 3). I thought the 3 to 3 sockets and a different wire to the other 3 had something to do with the original 240 wiring but then I thought probably just a two switch set up. When I hooked blue to line I had power on the screw shells, black and brown to line I had power on some prongs, it was hard to check with the fixture moving as I tried to get the tester leads in. My question I guess is even if it is a 240v fixture if one wire goes to the shell and the other to the prong it should work if you have the right voltage lamps right? I am thinking maybe the adapters, but she said it was working. She originally had European style 120v lamps but couldn't find them so she got adapters and regular candlabra bulbs, and as I said claimed they were working. Last item is it is on a dimmer but I had the right power at the outlet and even tried it to the feed that was spliced through. In my mind it should work blue as neutral, black and brown together as the hot. If you can follow all this am I missing something.

Unrelated to this-I can't reply to posts, the space bar doesn't space:?
 
Figure out the power at the outlet (sounds like you did but it's a bit confusing all run together) and diagnose the fixture on a bench testing continuity before you apply power. Test the bulbs on the bench too.

You're not the only one with the spacebarproblem. If you close the reply and then reopen it, that seems to work most of the time. The forum moderators are aware and are working on it. What's your browser & OS? Please post that answer here: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=179909
 
It sound like you have six sockets going to neutral/common and two hots each serving alternate sockets to give step dimming. If none of them are working, I bet its an issue with the adapter not reaching far enough. You could connect your meter across neutral and hot on fixture side of switch (with breaker off...) and cram a tin foil in the socket to see if you get continuity with and without the adapter, then with the light bulb in place.

Why not just source a case of 120/130v lamps meant to fit the socket and call it a day? E12 to E14 bushing socket is going to be a real pain to remove if it gets stuck at a later time.
http://www.bulbs.com/Light_Bulbs/European_(E14)-Base/results.aspx
 
Figure out the power at the outlet (sounds like you did but it's a bit confusing all run together) and diagnose the fixture on a bench testing continuity before you apply power. Test the bulbs on the bench too.

You're not the only one with the spacebarproblem. If you close the reply and then reopen it, that seems to work most of the time. The forum moderators are aware and are working on it. What's your browser & OS? Please post that answer here: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=179909
Chromeandwindows10
 
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