Bandsaw to cut large wire?

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mikerbutler

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Is there a problem with using a portable band saw to cut large (500MCM and up) conductors with a portable bandsaw? It's much less effort and seems safer than using long-handle cutters. And the bandsaw has numerous uses; I can't justify spending $1,000 or more on a cordless cable cutter tool.
 
mikerbutler said:
Is there a problem with using a portable band saw to cut large (500MCM and up) conductors with a portable bandsaw? It's much less effort and seems safer than using long-handle cutters. And the bandsaw has numerous uses; I can't justify spending $1,000 or more on a cordless cable cutter tool.
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Sawzall works great as well.

I see no problem with it.
 
mikerbutler said:
Is there a problem with using a portable band saw to cut large (500MCM and up) conductors with a portable bandsaw? It's much less effort and seems safer than using long-handle cutters. And the bandsaw has numerous uses; I can't justify spending $1,000 or more on a cordless cable cutter tool.
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Nothing wrong with useing a bandsaw or even a hack saw or die grinder to cut cable but have you ever herd of just racheting cable cutters? Mine are kind of old but cost less than $200.00 and I can cut 750 MCM with one hand in a tight space.
 
I agree its fine as well.

Also agree a sawzall can work fine as well, but if you have to demo big conductors use a wood type blade, it goes much faster. :thumbsup:
 
If you have high labor costs then the $1000 investment is worth it. Cutting with a battery cutter is very fast, the other methods are much slower especially on 500 kcmil and larger.
 
infinity said:
If you have high labor costs then the $1000 investment is worth it. Cutting with a battery cutter is very fast, the other methods are much slower especially on 500 kcmil and larger.
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I agree, for the resi guy an occasional job with large conductors would not warrant an investment like that. However, for anyone who does any kind of commercial work on a regular basis, I'd say it's an extremely worthwhile investment.
 
Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you all for the responses. I've been using a little bandsaw for years. It cuts through large aluminum conductors quickly. Recently an AHJ questioned using this tool. He didn't say it was necessarily wrong, but he didn't think it was right, either.
 
AFAIK there is nothing in the code that requires use of an identified tool for this purpose, much less listed.

But any AHJ can always raise the subjective "workmanlike" issue.

My concerns would be whether the saw left a few longer strands sticking out or tore out some strands to a point upstream of the intended cutoff point.
 
GoldDigger said:
My concerns would be whether the saw left a few longer strands sticking out or tore out some strands to a point upstream of the intended cutoff point.
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Can you elaborate on this because I'm just not getting it.


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ADub said:
Can you elaborate on this because I'm just not getting it.


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Wire or cable cutters typically have one or two blades set up in a shear or knife and anvil configuration. They apply only shear forces to the strands of the cable, although there will be a tendency to crush the cable somewhat too.

A saw blade reciprocates in free space and is only able to cut the strands of cable because they are held in place by the presence of other strands of wire with nothing backing it up.

That might work just fine, or, particularly in the case of fine stranded wire, the teeth of the saw might tend to pull the bundle of wires apart at the same time it cuts through them.

Not based on actual experience, just a thought of what might happen.
 
GoldDigger said:
....

Not based on actual experience, just a thought of what might happen.
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Doesn't happen using a portaband on standard building wire with insulation intact. I don't recall ever using on stripped wire.

That said, I have no experience using a portaband on fine-stranded non-standard building wire such as DLO or welding cable, but I speculate the result is quite similar as long as the insulation is intact when cut.
 
Smart $ said:
Doesn't happen using a portaband on standard building wire with insulation intact. I don't recall ever using on stripped wire.

That said, I have no experience using a portaband on fine-stranded non-standard building wire such as DLO or welding cable, but I speculate the result is quite similar as long as the insulation is intact when cut.
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That information helps. I also wonder whether there would be a significant difference between the continuous cutting with even pressure of a bandsaw compared to the orbital oscillating action of a sawzall.
 
GoldDigger said:
That information helps. I also wonder whether there would be a significant difference between the continuous cutting with even pressure of a bandsaw compared to the orbital oscillating action of a sawzall.
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Depends on what you deem significant. A reciprocating saw's cut is not as clean, but most of that can be attributed to fewer teeth per inch.
 
peter d said:
A wood blade on copper wire? :blink:
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I never saw a wood blade, but it probably wouldn't work that well, I'd think a wood cutting blade would work pretty well though, but I think the rough cut blades might be a little more destructive and a blade designed for cutting wood, plastics or light metals is going to have the best performance balance, something around 12-16 teeth per inch maybe.
 
iwire said:
Also agree a sawzall can work fine as well, but if you have to demo big conductors use a wood type blade, it goes much faster. :thumbsup:
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peter d said:
A wood blade on copper wire? :blink:
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I would assume that Iwire was making a joke when he suggested useing a wood blade. I didn't take it as a serious suggestion. :? But I have never tried it.

I have seen demo work done with a cutting torch. Cut through conduit and cable both. I don't know what breathing those fumes from the galvanized conduit would do to you but it's not supposed to be good.
 
growler said:
I would assume that Iwire was making a joke when he suggested useing a wood blade. I didn't take it as a serious suggestion.
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Copper and aluminum are soft metals and cut pretty well with wood cutting blades, but you want to use finer tooth blade if you want a clean cut. Fine tooth for wood cutting is often considered coarse tooth when it comes to metal cutting.

Aluminum lighting track or other similar aluminum products cuts better with a miter saw with wood trim cutting type of blade then it does with an abrasive blade, nice clean sharp edges. Try to cut same thing with a wood ripping blade and it may occasionally destroy the item because of such coarse teeth in the cutting blade. (sometimes you have to learn that the hard way)
 
My concern would be as to WHERE you are doing the cutting. With loppers, there is no residue to be concerned with. With any kind of saw action, there will be swarf and it will be conductive. So for example if you are cutting cables after coming into the top of a switchboard with a saw, the swarf will be filtering down into the switchboard, getting on the bus, any breakers installed etc. That can have disastrous consequences later.

Cutting it outside on a bench or off of the reel, i don't see an issue.

And yes, USE "fine tooth" wood blades. Hacksaw type tooth count, such as for steel, will "load" when cutting soft material like aluminum or copper.
 
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