Bandsaws on the jobsite (conduit)

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lordofpi

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New Jersey
I try to simplify life as much as possible by not over-burdening jobs with a million tools when 10 could easily to the job. For the longest time, I would use my metal blade in my sawzall... ehem reciprocating saw... oh wait, it is a Milwaukee... my Sawzall?;) with metal-cutting blade to cut EMT, IMC, and RMC. This always got the job done faster than a hacksaw, and the cuts were--satisfactory (with much time spent reaming afterwards). I happened to have my bandsaw with me the other day and put it to the test. What a nice difference! I think I'm going to start carrying it regularly.

My question is how many of you slice and dice your metallic raceways with reciprocating saws as I was doing, or have I just been screwing up from day one?

I know you all are out there reading the forum in between bites of food. Please weigh in.
 
I am so lazy that I will lug my band-saw up 5 flights of stair to make one cut on 1/2" emt, 10 flights for flex..... I wont cut rigid any other way... I only use my saws-all for demo.
 
We always use the recip. saws, dewalt 18v. I don't even carry a hacksaw anymore. Reaming is an easy habit to get into- we do both sides of every cut just out of habit.

Jeremy
 
My bandsaw rarely sees the light of day, since I got one of these.

BCS550

BCS550l.jpg
 
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Gonna have to run and duck - but these work great for 1/2 and 3/4 EMT. Unlike other designs they have consistant pressure - less diameter damage - just little ream and you're done. And they fit in your pocket - still not as fast or easy as a band saw....
 
paul said:
My bandsaw rarely sees the light of day, since I got one of these.

BCS550

BCS550l.jpg

I use the same tool. It is very handy and worth the money. The new saw in the picture is half the weight of a Makita battery saw from 3 years ago.
 
The Portoband is probably the best tool I ever purchased. After using it, I seldom use the reciprocating saw for anything but 1/2-1" emt.

I do a lot of over head services where the pipe supports the incoming over head service drop, hence 1 1/2" rigid pipe. Using the band saw does the job in less then half the time of a reciprocating saw. Same with strut, (though on large jobs we use a chop saw).
 
paul said:
My bandsaw rarely sees the light of day, since I got one of these.

BCS550

BCS550l.jpg


How is this different from a regular circular saw with metal-cutting blade? I have a cordless circular saw and a my cordless bandsaw always with me; is it worth adding this to the arsenal as well?
 
Bandsaw or hacksaw...a sawzall is a tool of destruction :)

If you are forgetting to ream/deburr you need to add one of these to your xmas list:
19352_icon.jpg


Klein
  • 19352 - Conduit Reamer
  • 19351 - Conduit-Reamer ? Replacement Blade
Slips right over a decent sized driver (forget the 10-in-1's here)...like the 1/2" Keystone-Tip Screwdriver ? 12" Heavy-Duty Square-Shank(600-12):
600-6_ICON.JPG






Or get the

85191_icon.jpg

  • 85191 - Conduit-Fitting and Reaming Screwdriver
  • 19353 - Conduit Reamer Replacement Blade Kit

I have both set-ups.
I use the 85191 for larger jobs where I'm running LOTS of EMT (up to 1" on the reamer)

I use the combination 19352 and 600-12 for the smaller jobs (still up to 1").

It may seem "odd" to use the little guy on a big job, but it actually works out better... with strut/strut starps and a wrench or 3....smaller jobs with plastic anchors and what not, the big driver is needed.
 
celtic said:
I use the 85191 for larger jobs where I'm running LOTS of EMT (up to 1" on the reamer)
I have one, too, and I like it, but for large jobs, I prefer an S-2 bit in my 6v electric screwdriver.
 
I just cant see using a band saw 20 feet up on a lift.I use my sawzal but do carry that new fangled thing that runs all day without electric,think they call it a " hacksaw" .Must be for hacks LOL.Paint is still new on that blade.
 
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