Re: baseboard heat calcs, BTU per Sq foot?
You're looking for an ACCA Manual-J, but this will be overkill for a simple garage. You need to know the winter design temperature for your area (its typically your winter "lowest high temp", but I have a book that lists it for various cities in the US). You also need to know the temperature you want to keep that garage at. This difference between the two temperatures is the delta T (dT).
You need to know the R values of the walls, floors, ceilings, doors, and windows (R value is 1/U if you know the window U value. Assume R=0.8 for single pane window, 1.8 for double pane, 3 for double pane low-E argon filled). You also need to know the area of each of these too. Wood (such as doors) has an R value of about 1 per inch.
Finally, you need to guess how much air infiltration you get. This is measured in Air Changes per Hour (ACH) and depends on how leaky the doors, windows, and walls are. Guess an ACH of 1.0 if you have no idea and ACH=2 if you can see daylight through parts of the walls...
Calculate your conductive heat losses with this equation for all walls, windows, ceilings, doors, and floors and add them together (note -- wall area is the length*height - window and door area):
BTU/Hr = Area * dT / R
If the floor is concrete, use this equation to find the floor conductive loss:
BTU/Hr = Perimeter * 0.8 * dT, where perimeter is the floor perimeter in feet.
Heat loss to infiltration is:
BTU/Hr = ACH * Volume / 60 * 1.08 * dT where volume is the volume of the building's conditioned space in cubic feet.
Add all of these heat losses and this is your total BTU/Hr requirement. If using electric resistance heat, divide this by 3.41 to get KW of heat required to produce the temperature you want. If this building is allowed to get real cold and you want to heat it up only when its used, it could take a long time with this BTU value. You need to increase this substantially if you want a quick heat up of a cold space.
[ April 11, 2005, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: suemarkp ]