Baseboard Heaters

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emtfire148186

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Downingtown, Pa
Hello,

Im new to this site and I love it. Im only an electrician helper and had a question. Changing a thermostat at my moms and its a wall mount. there is 2 8' heaters on a 220 volt circuit. My question is. There is only one piece of 12/2 going to the thermostat and the new thermostat has 4 wires. 2 line and 2 load I believe. The thermostat that is on there now only has 2 wires black and red. any idea how to wire a new one?

The thermostat that is on there now is programmable. It always say the room air is 80 so the heat wont kick on.

Thanks
 
emtfire148186 said:
Hello,

Im new to this site and I love it. Im only an electrician helper and had a question. Changing a thermostat at my moms and its a wall mount. there is 2 8' heaters on a 220 volt circuit. My question is. There is only one piece of 12/2 going to the thermostat and the new thermostat has 4 wires. 2 line and 2 load I believe. The thermostat that is on there now only has 2 wires black and red. any idea how to wire a new one?

The thermostat that is on there now is programmable. It always say the room air is 80 so the heat wont kick on.

Thanks
Click to expand...

This is a line voltage thermostat, right? The new one may just be a two pole switch where the old one was single pole. Current practice would be to interrupt both hot leads, but since they do not both run to the switch location you cannot do that.

The programmable thermostat probably has a battery. Did you insert or enable the battery and also peel off the piece of plastic over the currently dead display that has 80 printed on it?
Just a guess, but worth at try.....:angel:
 
I agree the original is likely just a line voltage single pole thermostat.

This is still an acceptable installation for 240 heat in most applications. See 424.20(B) for details.

emtfire, you will just need to determine which two of the four wires on your new switch are one pole of the two pole switch. This can be done with a simple continuity test while cycling the thermostat on and off.


Here is a code refrerance.

424.20 Thermostatically Controlled Switching Devices.

(A) Serving as Both Controllers and Disconnecting Means. Thermostatically controlled switching devices and combination thermostats and manually controlled switches shall be permitted to serve as both controllers and discon-necting means, provided they meet all of the following conditions:

(1) Provided with a marked ?off? position

(2) Directly open all ungrounded conductors when manu-ally placed in the ?off? position

(3) Designed so that the circuit cannot be energized auto-matically after the device has been manually placed in the ?off? position

(4) Located as specified in 424.19

(B) Thermostats That Do Not Directly Interrupt All Ungrounded Conductors. Thermostats that do not directly interrupt all ungrounded conductors and thermostats that operate remote-control circuits shall not be required to meet the requirements of 424.20(A). These devices shall not be permitted as the disconnecting means.
Click to expand...
 
GoldDigger said:
This is a line voltage thermostat, right? The new one may just be a two pole switch where the old one was single pole. Current practice would be to interrupt both hot leads, but since they do not both run to the switch location you cannot do that.

The programmable thermostat probably has a battery. Did you insert or enable the battery and also peel off the piece of plastic over the currently dead display that has 80 printed on it?
Just a guess, but worth at try.....:angel:
Click to expand...

OK, my mistake. You were talking about the old thermostat. If it is stuck at 80 and sort of dim the battery may be going dead and need replacing. It may be hard to find, so try to look up the thermostat online. Otherwise look for an internal reset button (while it is disconnected from the circuit or the breaker(s) are open)
 
iwire said:
I am going to be frank with you.

If you do not know how to identify the four leads or terminals of a double pole switch you should really not be doing this work.
Click to expand...

I agree. Personally I never want to be responsible for a client misinterpreting my response or if I were to misinterpret a question that would lead to a loss of property or more importantly a loss of life. When ever I have determined that there is a lack of knowledge and experience of safe electrical practicesvand procedures I always recommend the a licensed electricion or a person who is qualified do the work.
 
templdl said:
I agree. Personally I never want to be responsible for a client misinterpreting my response or if I were to misinterpret a question that would lead to a loss of property or more importantly a loss of life. When ever I have determined that there is a lack of knowledge and experience of safe electrical practicesvand procedures I always recommend the a licensed electricion or a person who is qualified do the work.
Click to expand...

Though this site is intended for professionals and requires you to be a professional to participate, it is viewable to anybody with access to the internet, so anything you say here you are saying to potentially everyone:happyyes:
 
kwired said:
Though this site is intended for professionals and requires you to be a professional to participate, it is viewable to anybody with access to the internet, so anything you say here you are saying to potentially everyone:happyyes:
Click to expand...

Exactly. Good point.'And that's why there is a need to think about the implications of any response that we give, all feelings aside. It's one thing to be diplomatic but in the interest of safety trumps that any day. A mistake that is made my be made only once. :)
 
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