Best soldering iron for tape light

Location
Washington
Occupation
Journeyman 02
Gettin a new solder iron for tape light connections, haven’t done this much in the past always used the lousy connectors which I want to avoid. Any advice on what to get ? Something simple and works good with tape light. Thanks
 
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I'm a fan of the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron. I don't remember what I used for flux, but I would tin the wire, tin the soldering iron tip, dunk it in flux to clean the junk off, and put a dollop of solder on the tape, then heat up the tape with the wire touching. They would melt quick and bond nicely. Then I would clean all the flux off with CRC QD electronics cleaner.
 
I'm a fan of the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron. I don't remember what I used for flux, but I would tin the wire, tin the soldering iron tip, dunk it in flux to clean the junk off, and put a dollop of solder on the tape, then heat up the tape with the wire touching. They would melt quick and bond nicely. Then I would clean all the flux off with CRC QD electronics cleaner.
The battery-operated is a good idea. My use of a corded iron goes way back. I’m old!
 
I'm a fan of the Milwaukee m12 soldering iron. I don't remember what I used for flux, but I would tin the wire, tin the soldering iron tip, dunk it in flux to clean the junk off, and put a dollop of solder on the tape, then heat up the tape with the wire touching. They would melt quick and bond nicely. Then I would clean all the flux off with CRC QD electronics cleaner.
Awesome that’s what I’ve been Looking at. I did a lot of soldering when I started but it’s been about 10 years I haven’t done it hardly at all. Any good YouTube videos or advice you’d give for tape light solder ? Or just low volt in general I mean that’s pretty much all I’d be soldering
 
Any good YouTube videos or advice you’d give for tape light solder
Tape light solder?? :rolleyes:

If you are familiar with electronic soldering this will be no different. ALWAYS use rosin core solder and if you have trouble getting the connection to "take" then clean it up and apply a little flux. NEVER USE A PLUMBING FLUX OR SOLDER!! I recommend Kester rosin core 60/40 (tin/lead) in .062" diameter solder and MG Chemicals - 8341-10ML 8341 No Clean Flux Paste,

As for an iron, 30W with a fine tip is fine. It's important to keep the tip clean and tinned.

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Solder24-6040-0061-Solder-190ðC-453-592G/dp/B00DE3GG8K/ref=asc_df_B00DE3GG8K?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333160033505&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932708315091&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863980022154&th=1




-Hal
.
 
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I’m happy using a Weller 30W pencil-type iron on all types of circuit boards, including LED tape. You want a fine tip.
Used a Weller think it was a 25 watt soldering pencil type soldering iron to solder 15 or 16 printed circuit boards on a 25" Heathkit color TV years ago. Also still have the Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun my electrician dad purchased for me while in Vo Tech class. Weller makes a nice product. Always liked to have a wet sponge to clean soldering tips. Great improvement when they came out with coated soldering gun tips. My 100/140 Weller soldering gun has a copper element that should be cleaned then tinned before each use.I also liked using rosin core solder. Think 63% tin & 37% lead had the lowest melting point. Not sure of melting point for lead free solder.
 
Tape light solder?? :rolleyes:

If you are familiar with electronic soldering this will be no different. ALWAYS use rosin core solder and if you have trouble getting the connection to "take" then clean it up and apply a little flux. NEVER USE A PLUMBING FLUX OR SOLDER!! I recommend Kester rosin core 60/40 (tin/lead) in .062" diameter solder and MG Chemicals - 8341-10ML 8341 No Clean Flux Paste,

As for an iron, 30W with a fine tip is fine. It's important to keep the tip clean and tinned.

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Solder24-6040-0061-Solder-190ðC-453-592G/dp/B00DE3GG8K/ref=asc_df_B00DE3GG8K?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333160033505&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932708315091&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863980022154&th=1




-Hal
.
I will add to this. For the record, the eutectic alloy for tine lead solder is 63/37, but 60/40 is close enough that it works. Clean is the important thing, as hbliss pointe out. But also CLEAN is important. Add to that clean everything. I probably made my point. But I am talking, wipe off the solder itself with alcohol or Tri Clor. DON'T straighten it out with your finger, just the oil from that can affect a solder joint. Also don't use too much solder, you should be able to see the contour of everything you are soldering together including the stranding on the wire.
 
Soldering is an art. Anybody can do it, but it takes years to learn how to do it right.

-Hal
Yeah, I worked on Nuclear Submarines for a few years. Got qualified for nuclear soldering including mini pin connector plugs. First thing I do with every guitar I have owned is tear it apart and resolder all joints.
 
I have a cheap iron, probably Weller. It's got a larger tip, definitely not fine. I don't keep it clean, I don't tin it.

The right flux and solder are most important. And clean pads on the strip light. A very fine sandpaper is good, but I usually use the tip of my utility knife and gently scrape the pads.
 
I have a cheap iron, probably Weller. It's got a larger tip, definitely not fine. I don't keep it clean, I don't tin it.

The right flux and solder are most important. And clean pads on the strip light. A very fine sandpaper is good, but I usually use the tip of my utility knife and gently scrape the pads.
I don't agree with a single point you made. A large tip can transfer too much heat too fast and cause the traces to separate and burn the insulation on the wire. The right solder and flux is a given but only in that electrical solder is electrical solder. Sandpaper is not a good way to "clean" the pads since it can leave grit. If you actually have green verdigis or build up a wire brush and some alcohol or degreaser. That part I may be making an assumption about is that you think when we say clean we mean bright and shiny, which isn't it. It is free of debris certainly , but mostly it is clean and free of oils and contaminates. Flux will take care of silver oxide or dull copper.
 
This right here has been a lifesaver for me, super handy. I’m a noob too and this made me feel like a pro. Definitely get good solder. I bought Kester 44 63/37 0.031”
 
the single item that most helped me when soldering tape light was to use a soldering station with adjustable clamp arms and a magnifying glass.
 
Gettin a new solder iron for tape light connections, haven’t done this much in the past always used the lousy connectors which I want to avoid. Any advice on what to get ? Something simple and works good with tape light. Thanks
Curious what brand of LED tape you are using. Most I am familiar with do not recommend field soldering but would prefer their set screw type connectors.
 
This right here has been a lifesaver for me, super handy. I’m a noob too and this made me feel like a pro. Definitely get good solder. I bought Kester 44 63/37 0.031”
Thanks. All five brands of versatile battery operated soldering stations stated 80 watts max but no table or list how long a 2 or 3 amp 18 volt battery pack will last at different temperature settings. Most sparkies own at least four battery packs and most repairs only take at most a few minutes. Years ago we had to replace 1 to 5 amp fuses that were soldered on boards. Never heard the clever tip of using alcohol to clean off solder.
 
Thanks. All five brands of versatile battery operated soldering stations stated 80 watts max but no table or list how long a 2 or 3 amp 18 volt battery pack will last at different temperature settings. Most sparkies own at least four battery packs and most repairs only take at most a few minutes. Years ago we had to replace 1 to 5 amp fuses that were soldered on boards. Never heard the clever tip of using alcohol to clean off solder.
Not sure how long this will last on the smallest M18 battery, I happen to use it on a Forge 8A, but this particular model doesn't use much battery power at all. I've had that battery on there for months and haven't charged it once, still on full bars. I wouldn't be too worried about the battery life, I believe it'll have no problem running on a classic 5A. As for the wattage yeah I don't know the answer, this one has a digital temperature dial, so you can go as high as 700 or 800F, can't remember. Most stuff I need doesn't need to get that high anyway.
 
This right here has been a lifesaver for me, super handy. I’m a noob too and this made me feel like a pro. Definitely get good solder. I bought Kester 44 63/37 0.031”
That's on my need list!
Anyone need a couple 20-40 year old corded units?
 
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