Best tool to cut out those pesky furring strips?

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bjp_ne_elec

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Related to another post - I'm ear deep in installing recessed lights in a remodel. Biggest speed bump after investing in a 6-12/" Hole Saw is what's left of those pesky furring strips - the ones that span the bottom of the trusses and then the sheet rock is screwed in to.

Thinking of some type of cut-off tool - but I don't think those abrasive wheels - like for a Dremel - are good on wood. Used them on metal pretty successfully.

Thanks,

BRett
 
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I have a Roto-Zip that hogs wood like a demon.

Forget those little 1/8" bits. I load it with a 2-flute 1/4" or 5/16" carbide-edge straight router bit, with 1" cutting length.

You can stick it into any place and hog out any offending wood. It will work in places that you can't use a saw. If you need more range, get a little longer bit, like a 1.5" or 2" cutting edge.

I usually use it "free-hand" when I am trying to remove obstructing wood. You can use it with a guide like a regular router, but I use a router when I need to do that.

CAUTION: Use BOTH hands to hold it. Mine got ripped out of my hands once, caught my pants just below the bottom of the zipper and came within an inch of severely wounding me. I have not seen one with a spring-loaded switch that turns off if released.
 
Are you saying you were nearly a soprano?

Anyway I too have put straigh router bits in roto-zip, and they do work well like that - but caution is required.

I also have a chainsaw disk for a right-angle grinder that will eat through whatever the Roto-zip wont. And a good all-'round cutting device with far superior cutting wood and plaster is a segmented or smooth diamond blade.
 
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Yes - a few of them, after I cut out the 6-1/2" hole, the can won't drop down on the ceiling because piece of furring strip that is still there holds can up. So I've got to get something that will cut flush up to a truss.

Cruising the net, I ran across the Fein Multimaster ( http://www.waltertool.com/ ) - looks pretty thick, but it's pricey. Anyone have one in their tool kit? If so, like to hear some feedback.


Brett
 
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I found a hole saw with a blade in the middle of the saw that would not only cut the circumference of the hole, but would also lift the center of the hole. I needed to recesses a box into a beam once. I don't remember the proper name of this saw, but it worked pretty well. If you find it, it might be some help.
 
I've cut probably a thousand of these. I always use my sawzall with a tapered rough blade. I cut the areas with just plaster first so I can make sure there is nothing above the strapping that I'd damage with my sawzall cut.
 
Cnn't beat a 3.5" angle grinder with the right blades, our guys use these for cutting all thread and anything else for that matter. The all thread has no burrs, can use for deburing holes after cutting holes in gear ect..

All around great tool now they come as a battery tool .
 
bjp_ne_elec said:
Yes - a few of them, after I cut out the 6-1/2" hole, the can won't drop down on the ceiling because piece of furring strip that is still there holds can up. So I've got to get something that will cut flush up to a truss.

Cruising the net, I ran across the Fein Multimaster ( http://www.waltertool.com/ ) - looks pretty thick, but it's pricey. Anyone have one in their tool kit? If so, like to hear some feedback.

Brett
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How far do you need to cut back from the hole to let the can drop down?

You could use a router with a bit that would guide on your original hole and cut back the required distance, with 3/4" depth of cut to just remove the thickness of the furring strip without damaging the chord of the truss.
 
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