Through out my house light bulbs blow on a weekly basis with a loud popping noise. I had an electrician ohm out circuits and check all connections in the panel. The voltage is correct at the panel and all boxes. There are no loose wire nuts. Occasionaly I hear a buzzing near the panel. My electrician thinks the only possibilities left are loose connection in the meter or at the top of the mast. The buzzing didn't occur while the electrician was here and I rarely hear it. Do you have any suggestions? Also, what causes these lightbulbs to blow so hard? This happens in most rooms on several different circuits. Thank you, Matt
blown lightbulbs
- Thread starter mmoore
- Start date
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Re: blown lightbulbs
in my experience, bulbs blow too soon because of one of several things.
too high a voltage. too much vibration (kids) or too cheep a bulb.
if you have eliminated these, and you are hearing a humming noise in the panel, then the electrician my not have looked for a loose neutral in the panel, or a loose connection between the main breaker and the buss bar.
hire a qualified electrician.
in my experience, bulbs blow too soon because of one of several things.
too high a voltage. too much vibration (kids) or too cheep a bulb.
if you have eliminated these, and you are hearing a humming noise in the panel, then the electrician my not have looked for a loose neutral in the panel, or a loose connection between the main breaker and the buss bar.
hire a qualified electrician.
- Location
- Lockport, IL
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrical Engineer
Re: blown lightbulbs
It sounds like there is a loose neutral wire that your electrician did not find the first time around. It might be at the main panel, and it might be on the utility side of your meter.
Since it happens all over the house, it is not likely to be a loose wire in any light fixture or receptacle outlet. So he could open boxes all day long and check for tightness, and not find the problem. If he checked all the neutral connections in the main panel, then it is time to call the utility, since the problem is probably theirs.
As to why it happens, that's a bit tough to describe. Presuming your house is like most other houses, it has two "hot" wires and one "neutral" wire coming from the utility. Each of the two hot wires supplies approximately half of the loads in the house; we make an effort to get the two loaded evenly. For one light bulb, the current might come from one hot, and return via the neutral. For a different light bulb, the current might come from the other hot, but it will return via the same neutral.
If the utility's neutral wire (or the one in your main panel) becomes loose, the current has no choice but to go from the first hot wire, through the first light bulb, then through the second light bulb, and finally through the other hot wire, in order to return to its source. If the loads on both sides are reasonably balanced, then you might not notice anything had happened. Each light bulb will get its share of the available voltage, and both will burn with the same, normal brightness.
However, what you are seeing comes from the fact that at a given moment, the loads are very unevenly balanced between the two hot wires. You turn stuff on and off all the time, and that puts more load on one side and less on the other. If it gets too uneven, then one light bulb will get the lion's share of the available voltage. That will be too much for it to handle; it will shine very brightly for a short moment, then go out, quite possibly with a violent flash.
It sounds like there is a loose neutral wire that your electrician did not find the first time around. It might be at the main panel, and it might be on the utility side of your meter.
Since it happens all over the house, it is not likely to be a loose wire in any light fixture or receptacle outlet. So he could open boxes all day long and check for tightness, and not find the problem. If he checked all the neutral connections in the main panel, then it is time to call the utility, since the problem is probably theirs.
As to why it happens, that's a bit tough to describe. Presuming your house is like most other houses, it has two "hot" wires and one "neutral" wire coming from the utility. Each of the two hot wires supplies approximately half of the loads in the house; we make an effort to get the two loaded evenly. For one light bulb, the current might come from one hot, and return via the neutral. For a different light bulb, the current might come from the other hot, but it will return via the same neutral.
If the utility's neutral wire (or the one in your main panel) becomes loose, the current has no choice but to go from the first hot wire, through the first light bulb, then through the second light bulb, and finally through the other hot wire, in order to return to its source. If the loads on both sides are reasonably balanced, then you might not notice anything had happened. Each light bulb will get its share of the available voltage, and both will burn with the same, normal brightness.
However, what you are seeing comes from the fact that at a given moment, the loads are very unevenly balanced between the two hot wires. You turn stuff on and off all the time, and that puts more load on one side and less on the other. If it gets too uneven, then one light bulb will get the lion's share of the available voltage. That will be too much for it to handle; it will shine very brightly for a short moment, then go out, quite possibly with a violent flash.
jimwalker
Senior Member
- Location
- TAMPA FLORIDA
Re: blown lightbulbs
This sounds like a neutral problem and it could be very serious.You might want to contact your power company and a qualified electrician.This could be a fire waiting to happen.I suggest acting fast.When you do get it fixed please let us know what it was.
This sounds like a neutral problem and it could be very serious.You might want to contact your power company and a qualified electrician.This could be a fire waiting to happen.I suggest acting fast.When you do get it fixed please let us know what it was.
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Re: blown lightbulbs
Matt,
I note that you put "farmer" down in your profile. May I infer that your electrical problems are at a farmstead with a central distribution pole and with the power company transformer one pole-span away from that?
If so, there will be several splices along those overhead wires, ending at the side of the power company transformer, that can fail in a way that will give the symptoms you are describing.
Having eliminated the house, the exterior overhead splices, mast and meter base are all that remain to examine.
The power company will be able to help with inspecting the overhead wires. Telling their customer service person that you've already had an electrician go over the house will assure them that they probably have the problem on their wires.
Matt,
I note that you put "farmer" down in your profile. May I infer that your electrical problems are at a farmstead with a central distribution pole and with the power company transformer one pole-span away from that?
If so, there will be several splices along those overhead wires, ending at the side of the power company transformer, that can fail in a way that will give the symptoms you are describing.
Having eliminated the house, the exterior overhead splices, mast and meter base are all that remain to examine.
The power company will be able to help with inspecting the overhead wires. Telling their customer service person that you've already had an electrician go over the house will assure them that they probably have the problem on their wires.
rick hart
Senior Member
- Location
- Dallas Texas
Re: blown lightbulbs
How close to the transformer are you? I had a house that was the first in a long line of others and every time a lamp burned out, the circuit breaker would trip (Sq D QO) with a loud noise, destroying the dimmer; don't remember having short lamp life as a problem though.
I figured it was because the available fault current was high, but never knew for sure.
How close to the transformer are you? I had a house that was the first in a long line of others and every time a lamp burned out, the circuit breaker would trip (Sq D QO) with a loud noise, destroying the dimmer; don't remember having short lamp life as a problem though.
I figured it was because the available fault current was high, but never knew for sure.
Re: blown lightbulbs
Well I just had a technician from my local power company stop by... First thing I just want to answer the previous replies that I am serviced immediately from the transformer. Secondly, I apologize if I don't get the terminology correct in what's to come.
First thing he did was pull the meter and checked all connections which were fine. He then installed a "chuck" meter (acts as a 4500 watt load and measures voltage on each leg? I guess.)on the line side of the meter. It was great according to him. Both legs read 123 volts with no drop. He then replaced the meter with a new one. He then inspected the connections at the mast and then went up and checked the connections at the transformer. All were good. Next he did a check of amperage on each leg and at the time both were drawing 23 amps. Next we went inside to the panel and installed the chuck meter to the load side. The first leg read 123 volts but when he switched a switch on his meter to read the other leg there was an explosion and the meter was fried. He said this has never happened before and he couldn't explain it. My electrician was also here and the two ended up doing many different continuity tests.(main breaker,other breakers, hot to ground, etc.)There were no shorts found and once again every connection was tight in the panel and it is done in a neat fashion. The tech went up to the pole one more time and disconnected the power and did a continuity test to the line side of the meter just to make sure and everything checked out. He then felt sure it was not on his side and wished us luck. Why would the meter fry? Doesn't that mean there's a dead short somewhere?
Well I just had a technician from my local power company stop by... First thing I just want to answer the previous replies that I am serviced immediately from the transformer. Secondly, I apologize if I don't get the terminology correct in what's to come.
First thing he did was pull the meter and checked all connections which were fine. He then installed a "chuck" meter (acts as a 4500 watt load and measures voltage on each leg? I guess.)on the line side of the meter. It was great according to him. Both legs read 123 volts with no drop. He then replaced the meter with a new one. He then inspected the connections at the mast and then went up and checked the connections at the transformer. All were good. Next he did a check of amperage on each leg and at the time both were drawing 23 amps. Next we went inside to the panel and installed the chuck meter to the load side. The first leg read 123 volts but when he switched a switch on his meter to read the other leg there was an explosion and the meter was fried. He said this has never happened before and he couldn't explain it. My electrician was also here and the two ended up doing many different continuity tests.(main breaker,other breakers, hot to ground, etc.)There were no shorts found and once again every connection was tight in the panel and it is done in a neat fashion. The tech went up to the pole one more time and disconnected the power and did a continuity test to the line side of the meter just to make sure and everything checked out. He then felt sure it was not on his side and wished us luck. Why would the meter fry? Doesn't that mean there's a dead short somewhere?
jimwalker
Senior Member
- Location
- TAMPA FLORIDA
Re: blown lightbulbs
All you can do now is tear house down and start over.Just joking.The poco guy should have put a monitor on your panel.Something is wrong and its not safe.I also wish you luck.
All you can do now is tear house down and start over.Just joking.The poco guy should have put a monitor on your panel.Something is wrong and its not safe.I also wish you luck.
ramsy
Roger Ruhle dba NoFixNoPay
- Location
- LA basin, CA
- Occupation
- Service Electrician 2020 NEC
Re: blown lightbulbs
Deleted duplicate
[ December 17, 2005, 01:34 AM: Message edited by: ramsy ]
Deleted duplicate
[ December 17, 2005, 01:34 AM: Message edited by: ramsy ]
ramsy
Roger Ruhle dba NoFixNoPay
- Location
- LA basin, CA
- Occupation
- Service Electrician 2020 NEC
Re: blown lightbulbs
hurk27's Archived Post describes lifting the Equipment Bonding Jumpers to find the open nuetral. (Caution may advise checking for objectionable current first)
Mike Holt's Code Forum ? Archived Posts ? Open neutral tester
hurk27's Archived Post describes lifting the Equipment Bonding Jumpers to find the open nuetral. (Caution may advise checking for objectionable current first)
Mike Holt's Code Forum ? Archived Posts ? Open neutral tester
karl riley
Senior Member
Re: blown lightbulbs
If all the tests were done well, it may come back to the light bulbs. Some are now made in China and not as reliable (maybe in all the shipping they got shook up). You might try another brand that does not have "made in China" on it.
With bad neutrals, not only do bulbs blow, but motors can burn up and computers crash. Any of those other symptoms? Low voltage can be as bad as high voltage.
Another thing you can try if you have a multimeter with a recorning function (max, min, average) you can stick the voltage leads in an outlet and leave it for a day or so, or until a bulbe blows. Check the max and min periodically.
Karl
If all the tests were done well, it may come back to the light bulbs. Some are now made in China and not as reliable (maybe in all the shipping they got shook up). You might try another brand that does not have "made in China" on it.
With bad neutrals, not only do bulbs blow, but motors can burn up and computers crash. Any of those other symptoms? Low voltage can be as bad as high voltage.
Another thing you can try if you have a multimeter with a recorning function (max, min, average) you can stick the voltage leads in an outlet and leave it for a day or so, or until a bulbe blows. Check the max and min periodically.
Karl
karl riley
Senior Member
Re: blown lightbulbs
"recorning" = recording; "bulbe" = bulb.
Karl
"recorning" = recording; "bulbe" = bulb.
Karl
catchtwentytwo
Senior Member
Re: blown lightbulbs
Try a dimmer on one that "blows" frequently, see if that helps.
Question to all: a manufacturer's "average bulb life rating" of 1000 hours is around 42 days. I wonder if that is leaving it on 7x24 or with on off cycles?
Try a dimmer on one that "blows" frequently, see if that helps.
Question to all: a manufacturer's "average bulb life rating" of 1000 hours is around 42 days. I wonder if that is leaving it on 7x24 or with on off cycles?
rick hart
Senior Member
- Location
- Dallas Texas
Re: blown lightbulbs
It COULD have been the time was up for the utility fella's tester, just as it COULD have been time for all of your light bulbs to give up their ghost. That popping sound you hear has me wishing you more than luck though. The problem you have is real and simply a matter of time before you find out what it is.
Do you have any large electrical loads that work automatically- electric strip heat, tankless water heater. Or, you might not have an effective (rock solid) ground path even though all your connections are tight. If there is something closing intermittently to ground (ground fault)and there is no effective path to ground, the voltage can rise across part of your system and not across others. I admit I'm reaching here but, you have ruled out the easy stuff (assuming that there is not a problem with where the power comes from in the first place).
Don't get complacent.
Probably not a short but something is screwy. Maybe a ground fault is my guess.
It COULD have been the time was up for the utility fella's tester, just as it COULD have been time for all of your light bulbs to give up their ghost. That popping sound you hear has me wishing you more than luck though. The problem you have is real and simply a matter of time before you find out what it is.
Do you have any large electrical loads that work automatically- electric strip heat, tankless water heater. Or, you might not have an effective (rock solid) ground path even though all your connections are tight. If there is something closing intermittently to ground (ground fault)and there is no effective path to ground, the voltage can rise across part of your system and not across others. I admit I'm reaching here but, you have ruled out the easy stuff (assuming that there is not a problem with where the power comes from in the first place).
Don't get complacent.
karl riley
Senior Member
Re: blown lightbulbs
You can definitely get crucial info by going to Radio Shack and getting their cheapest multimeter with a min/max function. To repeat my last post, plug the leads into a circuit (using 200V AC scale) and check the min/max occasionally, particularly after a bulb has blown.
If it does not vary more than +-5% and the bulbs are still blowing I suggest ghosts!
If it does vary more than that, the problem is almost definitely a bad neutral,and needs to be re-checked by another electrician.
Karl
You can definitely get crucial info by going to Radio Shack and getting their cheapest multimeter with a min/max function. To repeat my last post, plug the leads into a circuit (using 200V AC scale) and check the min/max occasionally, particularly after a bulb has blown.
If it does not vary more than +-5% and the bulbs are still blowing I suggest ghosts!
If it does vary more than that, the problem is almost definitely a bad neutral,and needs to be re-checked by another electrician.
Karl
Re: blown lightbulbs
Today we measured voltage on each leg and they read 123-124 volts. We turned on everything in the house and the voltage dropped to 120-121 volts on both legs. Here are the breakdowns of each circuit:
Range Leg 1 - 40.1 Amps Leg 2 - 40.7 A
Dryer - 18.9 - 20.0
H2O Heater - 18.8 - 18.4
Master Heat - 8.8 - 8.9
Living Heat - 6.7 - 6.1
Hot Tub - 25.2 - 24.7
Bed & Bath Heat- 12.1 - 11.4
Living Room - 4.8
Outside light- 4.3
Kit/Dining - 2.1
Washer - 9.8
Dishwasher - 5.2
Kitchen 1 - .6
Kitchen 2 - 14.4
Entry/Hall - 3.7
Micro - 14
Garage - 4.5
Master Bed/Ba- 6.7
After this we disconnected all grounds and neutrals and did continuity tests from hot to ground,hot to neutral and neutral to ground on every circuit in the house and found no problems.
Also checked polarity in every outlet again. Also pulled fixtures that are the most "problems with blown bulbs" to inspect and found everything to be fine.
Today we measured voltage on each leg and they read 123-124 volts. We turned on everything in the house and the voltage dropped to 120-121 volts on both legs. Here are the breakdowns of each circuit:
Range Leg 1 - 40.1 Amps Leg 2 - 40.7 A
Dryer - 18.9 - 20.0
H2O Heater - 18.8 - 18.4
Master Heat - 8.8 - 8.9
Living Heat - 6.7 - 6.1
Hot Tub - 25.2 - 24.7
Bed & Bath Heat- 12.1 - 11.4
Living Room - 4.8
Outside light- 4.3
Kit/Dining - 2.1
Washer - 9.8
Dishwasher - 5.2
Kitchen 1 - .6
Kitchen 2 - 14.4
Entry/Hall - 3.7
Micro - 14
Garage - 4.5
Master Bed/Ba- 6.7
After this we disconnected all grounds and neutrals and did continuity tests from hot to ground,hot to neutral and neutral to ground on every circuit in the house and found no problems.
Also checked polarity in every outlet again. Also pulled fixtures that are the most "problems with blown bulbs" to inspect and found everything to be fine.
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