Bonding 26 gauge sheetmetal

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nizak

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Does current code require interior sheetmetal of a wood framed pole barn to be bonded?

Inspector mentioned it when the rough in was inspected. I don't see how to effectively do it since the panels are just screwed to the horizontal 2x4's.

The seams overlap, but the metal has a painted finish and is secured with screws that have a rubber type washer below the hex head.

I read the code section, but again it's something that can be interpreted differently by the AHJ.

Thanks
 
nizak said:
Does current code require interior sheetmetal of a wood framed pole barn to be bonded?

Inspector mentioned it when the rough in was inspected. I don't see how to effectively do it since the panels are just screwed to the horizontal 2x4's.

The seams overlap, but the metal has a painted finish and is secured with screws that have a rubber type washer below the hex head.

I read the code section, but again it's something that can be interpreted differently by the AHJ.

Thanks
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My personal opinion is it would serve no real purpose in most cases, and there is no practical way to do so when using a wood frame.

It is unclear to me that there is any section of the code that would require it, even if one could argue it was "likely" to become energized.
 
I wired one of those.

Mine had sheet metal siding inside and out. Put in a little 100A panel.

I put two bonding jumpers using #6 and lugs to both interior and exterior sheets at the panel basically for just a warm and fuzzy feeling.
Petty sure it was not required.

Used MC and metal boxes.

Lights were HO fluorescents, 0 degree F ballasts.
 
Somewhat similar situations with an approach I took, and with a question: Front desk at a community pool: concrete floor; someone built a nice "reception/sign-in desk", granite top, and faced with corrugated metal. There is a telephone (low voltage) and a computer on the desk top. Given the (very unlikely, but possible) failure of computer or phone, or maybe just dripping water (again, a pool environment) I bolted a listed grounding/bonding lug to the inside of the corrugated metal face of the desk using #10 bolt from outside, serrated lockwashers and nut inside, and I ran #12 insulated green from the grounding/bonding lug on the desk face to a nearby receptacle grounding/bonding point at a receptacle. There did not appear to be a specified method for running the #12 insulated green into the nearby receptacle box. I used a box to NM clamp with electrical tape (many turns) around the #12 green where it entered the receptacle box.

I'd sure appreciate any ideas on how to better run the #12 green grounding/bonding wire to the receptacle box.
 
Marty Lustig said:
Somewhat similar situations with an approach I took, and with a question: Front desk at a community pool: concrete floor; someone built a nice "reception/sign-in desk", granite top, and faced with corrugated metal. There is a telephone (low voltage) and a computer on the desk top. Given the (very unlikely, but possible) failure of computer or phone, or maybe just dripping water (again, a pool environment) I bolted a listed grounding/bonding lug to the inside of the corrugated metal face of the desk using #10 bolt from outside, serrated lockwashers and nut inside, and I ran #12 insulated green from the grounding/bonding lug on the desk face to a nearby receptacle grounding/bonding point at a receptacle. There did not appear to be a specified method for running the #12 insulated green into the nearby receptacle box. I used a box to NM clamp with electrical tape (many turns) around the #12 green where it entered the receptacle box.

I'd sure appreciate any ideas on how to better run the #12 green grounding/bonding wire to the receptacle box.
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how did you decide on a #12?

the computer presumably has a metal case connected to the EGC in the power that powers it so the chances of it failing in a way that would energize the desk is close to nil.

the phone is likely double insulated so again the chances of a failure energizing the desk is remote.

people get all nervous because there is a nearby pool so will be some water now and then. how is this any real different than an outdoor pavillion with power that gets rained on now and then. the water does not make it inherently any more dangerous.
 
petersonra said:
how did you decide on a #12?

the computer presumably has a metal case connected to the EGC in the power that powers it so the chances of it failing in a way that would energize the desk is close to nil.

the phone is likely double insulated so again the chances of a failure energizing the desk is remote.

people get all nervous because there is a nearby pool so will be some water now and then. how is this any real different than an outdoor pavillion with power that gets rained on now and then. the water does not make it inherently any more dangerous.
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So therefore then the 17 code has gfi protection for the outlets inside cabinets of kitchens...................
 
macmikeman said:
So therefore then the 17 code has gfi protection for the outlets inside cabinets of kitchens...................
Click to expand...

One question I was asked: Why use #12 for the grounding/bonding? I used #12 because the receptacles at the desk are fed with #12 as they are 20 amp receptacles.

Additional information: The receptacles at the front desk are GFCI protected.
 
I do appreciate the various replies indicating I may be worrying about something I don't need to worry about.

However, I still would appreciate ideas on my original request for assistance (which may have become lost in the description":
"I'd sure appreciate any ideas on how to better run the #12 green grounding/bonding wire to the receptacle box."
 
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