Bonding Both Ends; Required?

[busman]

I need to extend a residential service because the meter can was somehow installed about 4" above grade. Because of the tight turn of the 4/0 SE cable entering the house and the finished surfaces in the basement, it would be very difficult/disruptive to replace the SE cable. The HO has said they are OK if I splice the SE cable in a 3R junction box on the side of the house, since it's hidden by shrubs.

My plan was to place the JB at the location of the old meter can and punch a 2" KO on top of the JB for a Myers hub. Run 2" GRC up 3 feet to the bottom of the new meter socket. The question is about bonding. Since this is service conduit, it needs bonding other than just locknuts. The question is, does the code require bonding on BOTH ends of the conduit. I can't find anything that says it does. So, I plan to place a bonding bushing in the meter can and connect it to the grounded conductor terminal and then connect the make the splice of the grounded conductor in the JB using a H-Tap and continue the tail to a crimp on pad that will be bolted to the JB. This approach would only bond the conduit at the meter end. I would bond it at the JB end, if I could find a grounding Myers hub. They make them, but nobody seems to stock them.

Any issues with this plan?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[texie]

I need to extend a residential service because the meter can was somehow installed about 4" above grade. Because of the tight turn of the 4/0 SE cable entering the house and the finished surfaces in the basement, it would be very difficult/disruptive to replace the SE cable. The HO has said they are OK if I splice the SE cable in a 3R junction box on the side of the house, since it's hidden by shrubs.

My plan was to place the JB at the location of the old meter can and punch a 2" KO on top of the JB for a Myers hub. Run 2" GRC up 3 feet to the bottom of the new meter socket. The question is about bonding. Since this is service conduit, it needs bonding other than just locknuts. The question is, does the code require bonding on BOTH ends of the conduit. I can't find anything that says it does. So, I plan to place a bonding bushing in the meter can and connect it to the grounded conductor terminal and then connect the make the splice of the grounded conductor in the JB using a H-Tap and continue the tail to a crimp on pad that will be bolted to the JB. This approach would only bond the conduit at the meter end. I would bond it at the JB end, if I could find a grounding Myers hub. They make them, but nobody seems to stock them.

Any issues with this plan?

Thanks,

Mark

Sounds compliant to me. You can use the neutral for grounding as you described for the J-box. I think you are right about the Myers hub. There are 2 types as you said. One is listed for "normal" grounding, the other is listed as a grounding hub for compliance with 250.92 and they each have a different UL listing.

 

[augie47]

Since you are only bonding the conduit and not using it as a conductor to bond the j box, bonding the conduit on either end would be Code compliant, IMO.

Related question: SE cable ?? (H-H-N), not SER ? It sounds like the cable travels a distance after penetrating the wall which, here, would require a disconnect.

 

[busman]

Since you are only bonding the conduit and not using it as a conductor to bond the j box, bonding the conduit on either end would be Code compliant, IMO.

Related question: SE cable ?? (H-H-N), not SER ? It sounds like the cable travels a distance after penetrating the wall which, here, would require a disconnect.

It's not more than a few feet, but that few feet is behind a built-in bookcase and then there is a tight turn to deal with getting into the panel. I almost think the original installers put the cable bend in first and then mounted the panel. 4/0 SE cable can be a real pain to bend in tight quarters.

Thanks,

Mark