- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Admittedly I'm somewhat grasping at straws to keep from using 90.4 (I hate using that) but,
with only one locknut securing the nipple to the cabinet(s), I think a case may be made for:
All connections, joints, and fittings shall be made tight using suitable tools.
I'm still researching to find documentation so I can show this part applicable:
using fittings for joints and terminations approved for use with the type raceway
or cable used. (I hope I find a document calling for a locknut inside and out as 250.92 does)It's a bit of a moot point as the electrician has agreed to use bonding bushings but I prefer he do so because the Code requires it not the old inspector.
IMO locknut inside and outside on just one end is good enough to bond the nipple.
Maybe there's something in UL that speaks to rigid fittings.
Personally I think it's very clear that the guy didn't make a bonding connection at either end. Let's say he had done it with EMT set screw fittings with locknuts, but he forgot to tighten the set screws. The EMT is 'not going anywhere' but without the set screws tightened it's not properly bonded. I agree the word 'tight' is key. In fact, augie, I gotta ask: in the installation in question, was it not possible to firmly grab the nipple by hand and rotate it?
I did something slightly similar several years ago. I added a sub-panel to an existing panel in a garage that was drywalled. I mounted the new panel so the lower large KO on the side of the new panel lined up the lower large KO on the side of the old panel, drilled through the stud between them, and inserted a nipple with locknuts only inside both panels. The nipple was not the EGC between panels, though; I added an EGC.
I did something slightly similar several years ago. I added a sub-panel to an existing panel in a garage that was drywalled. I mounted the new panel so the lower large KO on the side of the new panel lined up the lower large KO on the side of the old panel, drilled through the stud between them, and inserted a nipple with locknuts only inside both panels. The nipple was not the EGC between panels, though; I added an EGC.
The nipple was not the EGC between panels, though; I added an EGC.
I understand the nipple not being used as a EGC but I would still want a bond bushing to assure the nipple itself had an adequate ground path.
Metallic raceways, fittings, enclosures, must be bonded even if there is multiple EGC pathways.Does the code anywhere require a different/better method depending on whether or not there is a wire egc installed? I don't think there is, although I admit sometimes I hold fittings without a wire egc to a higher standard.
I can assure you that the two locknuts mentioned in my case were tightened enough to scrape paint on both sides, with the stud maintaining 1.5" space, but I did not bond it directly.You can't leave said nipple loose fitting on both ends, unless a bonding bushing were used on at least one end and of course bonding jumper installed to that bushing.
I can assure you that the two locknuts mentioned in my case were tightened enough to scrape paint on both sides, with the stud maintaining 1.5" space, but I did not bond it directly.
Question:
Since I used a wire EGC to bond the sub-panel, what prevents considering the nipple to be considered an independent sleeve? The fact that it is in contact with a metallic panel?
If the argument is that it is in contact with the panel, can one then argue it's still not bonded?
The real question is where in the NEC does it say that RMC must be fastened with two locknuts when a wire type EBC is used.
Where in the Code does it require a nipple be bonded to an enclosure by a locknut outside the enclosure with a locknut or malleable bushing inside ?
(I have a nipple being used as the ground path between two enclosures with a single locknut inside each enclosure)
(excluding then use of a bond bushing in this case)
The nipple is bonded with one proper connection regardless of voltage. In order for the nipple to become the EGC between the enclosures it must have a proper connection at both ends, but if you ran a wire EGC through the nipple then you only need one (proper) bond to the nipple and can be at any point.I want to say if the voltage is 250V or higher, u need 4 locknuts on a nipple, 1 inside and 1 outside on both ends, (250-97 (2) ), What type of conduit? EMT u can get away with using fittings with a should that sits firmly against the enclosure.
Boy Howdy. What a surprisingly complicated question.Admittedly I'm somewhat grasping at straws to keep from using 90.4 (I hate using that) but,
with only one locknut securing the nipple to the cabinet(s), I think a case may be made for:
All connections, joints, and fittings shall be made tight using suitable tools.
I'm still researching to find documentation so I can show this part applicable:
using fittings for joints and terminations approved for use with the type raceway
or cable used. (I hope I find a document calling for a locknut inside and out as 250.92 does)It's a bit of a moot point as the electrician has agreed to use bonding bushings but I prefer he do so because the Code requires it not the old inspector.
In the 2017 NEC, this can be found as the last sentence of 314.17(B).1971 NEC 370-7. Conductors Entering Boxes or Fittings.
(b) Metal Boxes and Fittings.[/B] . . . last sentence . . . Where raceway or cable is installed with metal outlet boxes or fittings, the conduit shall be secured to such boxes or fittings.
1971 NEC
Article 373 Cabinets and Cutout Boxes
373-6. Deflection of Conductors.
(b) Insulation at Bushings. . . . last sentence . . . Where conduit bushings are constructed wholly of insulating material, a locknut shall be installed both inside and outside the enclosure to which the conduit is attached.