boxes roughed in stud walls

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If it's required, I sure missed it on a ton of inspections. I've seen various methods used for protection, none of which seemed adequate from a dedicated roto-zip operator.
 
augie47 said:
If it's required, I sure missed it on a ton of inspections. I've seen various methods used for protection, none of which seemed adequate from a dedicated roto-zip operator.
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Yeah you got that right. I push them in as much as I can. I was told by someone once that they are supposed to run that outside the box. It's a lot of fun when they not only cut the wire but blast through the threads also.
 
I seem to remember this was in for a code change but got shot down. They make a plastic plate that snaps in the screw holes to help protect the wire from roto zips and sheetrock mud.
 
Most of you won't see this as funny but my Dad broke the drywall mudders of cleaning their trowels off on his boxes. Any guesses as to how? :eek:)
 
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qcroanoke said:
Most of you won't see this as funny but my Dad broke the drywall mudders of cleaning their trowels off on his boxes. Any guesses as to how? :eek:)
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My guess would be an energized circuit would do the trick :D
 
augie47 said:
If it's required, I sure missed it on a ton of inspections. I've seen various methods used for protection, none of which seemed adequate from a dedicated roto-zip operator.
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we had to install 4" square boxes for speaker/strobes flush with wall. We pulled wire, coiled it up, and put blank plate on box until sheetrock and painters where done. Worked great!!
 
GerryB said:
Yeah you got that right. I push them in as much as I can. I was told by someone once that they are supposed to run that outside the box. It's a lot of fun when they not only cut the wire but blast through the threads also.
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If you have ever done cutouts with a rotary tool, you mark approximate center of box, hold sheet in place, insert bit at your center mark and proceed to cut until you "feel" the side of box. You then move bit to outside of box and follow it around perimeter of box. Most of the time you will leave a hole that fits box fairly perfectly. If you try to find outside of box first you will have an oversized hole that needs filling.

Now I don't see any reason for the bit to hit conductors that are at least 1 inch from front of box, the bit has no need to penetrate that deep, but I try to keep conductors as deep as possible within the box anyway. Make "S" bends in the conductors instead of curling them up, that will leave the part that is most subject to rotary bits near the cut end of the conductor instead of somewhere in the middle of it.
 
Back in the day when I was doing track housing I warned the contractor that if I found routed wires that there would be a hole to fix next to the box or he could pay me $5.00 for every wire I had to fix. His choice. I worded this very strongly. I didn't have to do it very often. The drywallers don't need 4" long bits. 1/4" longer than the thickness of the drywall is all it takes.
 
Met a guy that was trying to market a metal blank plate that was the same size as the the boxes. Seemed like a good/bad idea. Keep the roto zips out, but seemed like a lot of extra work to put them on and take them off.

Had a Target store begging for power (don't they all) so as I did a rough inspection I was walking through an area and just kept handing the contractor hand fulls of wire that I was pulling out of boxes because of the finish guys. He began to understand why I wasn't rushing to turn things on.:happyno:
 
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