Brick Sign

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1793

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Louisville, Kentucky
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Inspector
I would like to run this by someone other than me, myself & I, my only employees. I have been asked to quote a job to install three outdoor lights for a brick sign as well as supply power for the lighted portions of the sign controlled by a photocell. Photos below show the site.

I am going to trench, 24? deep, around from the back. I estimate 50? of trenching, 12/2 UF to the lights, 500w Quartz, to each flat part of the brick, 3 lights.

On the back out of j-box to sign with ?? EMT to a ?T? then out to each sign. I am planning on using #12THHN.

I?m leaning toward $1,000.00 to $1,200.00. Would like to know what kind of price you would shoot.

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th_Back_3.jpg
th_Front_1.jpg
 
Re: Brick Sign

I personaly wouldn't use 12 UF for this project. If you have trouble down the line as in Wouldn't some landscaping look nice around the sign?" and an overzealous shovel gets involved well you know the resualt. The pricing also depends on the fixture your going to use. Again I would use metal Hilide and a base for the designed for the appication.

Material
(4)Fixtures and bases about $700
(70+) 3/4" PVC conduit w/fittings $70
(210+) 3 #12 THHN $25
(70+) Trencher rental $75 (If your fast)
(1) Cu Yard of concrete $110

Labor
(16) At $55 per hour for one journeyman

Profit at least 10%

Total $2046 Could go for $2200 easily. Tie in you burden rate and permit.
 
Re: Brick Sign

Do the floodlights have to be controlled separtely from the sign lights? Are both photo controlled, or are the floods on a timer?

I agree with HV -- I'd use PVC and metal halide lights. I hate quartz floods -- short lamp life.
 
Re: Brick Sign

Originally posted by highkvoltage:
Material
(4)Fixtures and bases about $700
For those times that you have to keep the cost of the fixture down (i.e. cheap) have any of you tried HD Lighting? I haven't tried them yet, but will when the application is needed.

They have a 50W MH flood that might be used for this application if you fab a mount. It costs $55 per fixture including lamp. It's got to be at least as good as using a quartz flood. 4 would be $220.

http://www.hdlighting.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=100-50HQ

Might be worth experimenting with? Just keep enough $$$ in your price to change them out if they turn out to be junk.

Any of you guys have any experience with them or any opinion?
 
Re: Brick Sign

Have you considered installing a couple of standard par floodlight holders behind each sign, (vandal-proof with cage) and use those new flourescent floodlight bulbs?
 
Re: Brick Sign

What is in the ground between building and sign? If customer tells you nothing then you will cut something! allow your self something for repairs if their is any thing in the ground and have WRITTEN agreement of who is responsible for cut lines or pipe.call in no cuts to locate lines its free to you and if you cut phone,elect.,gas, water ect. and they failed to locate the repair is on them.
 
Re: Brick Sign

From the look of the sign that it extend all the way through the brick it seems like it is made to have lighting from the inside of it?

But I agree with above but with a RUUD wide angle PS320 upwardly shining sign light you could get away with one in front hitting both faces and one in the rear shining up. It looks like a good place for a flag pole just in back of it. Or two PS150 just in front of each sign over or under the sign. with a third one in back?
RUUD will sell directly with no middle man so they can be much cheaper to buy.

Go HERE For RUUD lighting's web site. :D

[ August 05, 2005, 12:54 AM: Message edited by: hurk27 ]
 
Re: Brick Sign

I've used RUUD High Bay Metal Halide fixtures before. They were good fixtures. RUUD is easy to work with, too. I'm sure that all of their products are good. A class outfit.
 
Re: Brick Sign

I would stay with a commerical grade MH fixtures. The reason is they would give a better light for the sign. Would make the white whiter and the letters stand out more. The commerical grade will last longer than the cheaper brands. As far as Ruud they make a good product but not the best. If your worried about the over all cost give the several bids explaining the benifits of each type of light.
 
Re: Brick Sign

Perhaps the lowest bid possible (why do potential customers love the bottom line so much) with proposed adders that contain brief explanations. If you are competing and the scope is not clear due to design-build, they look at the first nnumber and "oh, this guy ony wants $485.00!!!!
So, get it as low as is possible with adders and contingencies after the very BASE price. Let them see you can do it as cheap as the next guy, PLUS you know what will work better, why it is better, and you let them make an educated choice.

Do not add money to cover potential obstructions, note that the estimate is based on an unobstructed trench line and any obstruction encountered shall require a change order.

Gary

[ August 05, 2005, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: grasfulls ]
 
Re: Brick Sign

Originally posted by grasfulls:
Perhaps the lowest bid possible (why do potential customers love the bottom line so much) with proposed adders that contain brief explanations. If you are competing and the scope is not clear due to design-build, they look at the first nnumber and "oh, this guy ony wants $485.00!!!!
So, get it as low as is possible with adders and contingencies after the very BASE price. Let them see you can do it as cheap as the next guy, PLUS you know what will work better, why it is better, and you let them make an educated choice.

Do not add money to cover potential obstructions, note that the estimate is based on an unobstructed trench line and any obstruction encountered shall require a change order.

Gary
In theory that works. But after a couple of customers accept your rock bottom bid, then go after the upgrades after the fact (or accept the CO's for changes due to site conditions) then stiff you on the extras... well, you get the idea. Sure, there are vehicles by which you can collect those extras. But it isn't likely you'll hire a lawyer for the extras on a job this small, and the customer likely knows that.
 
Re: Brick Sign

yes, those things happen. However, mechanic's liens in california are very successfull and inexpensive vehicles to collect payments with, just most do not file appropriate paperwork.

However, I was not considering a bid package with the concept of unscrupulious clients. We all can pretty much tell if they may be those types, prior to expending any inordinate amount of time with them. Best to just cut the loss of invested time rather than chance a contract.

I hope you have great jobs upcoming.
Gary
 
Re: Brick Sign

California actually has a workable lein program? Here in WI, or for that matter IL, we have the standard issue mechanics lein. Filing is no problem, but collecting requires the sale of the property. In my experience, some of the worst "no pay" offenders are those who plan to occupy a home or property for the rest of their lives. In their case, a lein is a useless instrument. As far as dealing with unscrupulous customers goes, in my highly jaded opinion, most all customers are. Virtually no one pays extras without a fight anymore. You really have to word your contract precisely and get all changes in writing with a signature to have a chance of collecting. Even then, some customers will stiff you on the "so sue me" principle. I'd rather come in with a higher bid and a thorough explanation as to the benefits of any upgrade, than come in low and fight for the extras. It takes a bit more negotiation and marketing skill on the front end, but it saves headaches down the road.
 
Re: Brick Sign

Hi CS,

California actually has a workable lein program?
For the most part I have always filed pre liens and in 25 years I have had to work two of them through to a point where I got paid. I have never had to take it all of the way to foreclosure and I would hope that none of us do, but I know it happens. I have had to use an attorney in both cases but I was awarded the associated costs (I hear this is not always possible).

Here in WI, or for that matter IL, we have the standard issue mechanics lein. Filing is no problem, but collecting requires the sale of the property. In my experience, some of the worst "no pay" offenders are those who plan to occupy a home or property for the rest of their lives. In their case, a lein is a useless instrument.
I do not know what constitutes a "Standard lien" for different states, but the liens I have used allow the potential to foreclose on a property and have it auctioned on the steps of the county hall. This may be stayed:
Before Section 1281.5 was enacted, commencement of a
mechanic?s lien foreclosure action was sometimes deemed a
waiver of the plaintiff?s right to arbitrate.2 This put the
prospective plaintiff in a difficult position, because the limitations
period for a mechanic?s lien foreclosure action was
(and is) very short,3 making it impossible for the plaintiff to
delay litigation until completion of arbitration, except where
arbitration was completed very quickly.4 To address this
problem, Section 1281.5 makes clear that the filing of a foreclosure
action is not a waiver of arbitration if the plaintiff
simultaneously files an application for a stay of the action
pending arbitration.5

but I have never gotten that far.

As far as dealing with unscrupulous customers goes, in my highly jaded opinion, most all customers are. Virtually no one pays extras without a fight anymore.
You should not do any extras without a signed change order.


You really have to word your contract precisely and get all changes in writing with a signature to have a chance of collecting. Even then, some customers will stiff you on the "so sue me" principle. I'd rather come in with a higher bid and a thorough explanation as to the benefits of any upgrade, than come in low and fight for the extras. It takes a bit more negotiation and marketing skill on the front end, but it saves headaches down the road.
I applaud your sales abilities and agree with precise wording. Coming in with a higher bid and negotiating implies scrupulous customers, you earlier implied you trusted next to no one. If you are dealing with a trusted customer, I wholeheartedly agree with the approach. Perhaps the very first question we were discussing, the small trench and lighting issue should be broken into trusted or not trusted potential clientele?

If I do not trust someone, I do not want to work for them, not that we always have a choice. So, let's use the first scenario posed at the onset, trench and lights, with a new customer.

Two contractors, Upright Elec. Inc and Joe Schmuck Elec. JS pays employees under the table and uses stolen parts, and yet UE is close on the bid. All the two contractors are to the potential client are....two contractors, and even UE does not know what type of contractor JS is. UE says to customer, "you should use this fixture becuse of this reason and it will cost X amount more". The unwary client asks JS about this and JS says:
1- They just want more money from you
2- How much did they say it would cost you? ($350)
3- Sheesh, I can provide that for $185, they are trying to rip you off.

Trusted or not, a set bid due date with a clear scope and specs is optimum. Sometimes this may mean helping to define the scope prior to bid date. And a lot of times it just is not going to happen.

A simple trench and some lights with no specs? If bidding against others, I will still opt to provide the cheapest price feasible with my version of a defined scope, include any perceived adders, and ask that the document be included in any contract awarded to me. Otherwise I will spend as much time selling it as I would building it and I run the risk of the bottom line number forcing a "No" from them.

If you trust them, do whatever has enabled that trust to be developed in the first place.

Gary :p

[ August 07, 2005, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: grasfulls ]
 
Re: Brick Sign

Thanks to all who have responded to this question. The sign does have lighted panels and the fixtures I would be installing would be for the raised letters at the bottom of the two sides. In the center the will be cross hanging that needs to be illuminated.

Nothing will be illuminated at the back of this project.

Thanks to all,

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