Bright led strip light

[shputnik]

Looking for a high lumen strip light led. Its for a ten foot by five foot closet. It will provide lighting for a customer to look at clothing and im not sure what kelvin is best for proper lighting.

The fixture will be mounted well away from any clothing so a surface mount is acceptable.
Four footer or six footer.... 120 volt... I would appreciate any ideas or feedback..

Thanks

 

[Little Bill]

There are several LED strip lights. I would just look for a name brand and get the 5K.

 

[shputnik]

There are several LED strip lights. I would just look for a name brand and get the 5K.

Wouldn't a higher lumen be brighter?

 

[GoldDigger]

Wouldn't a higher lumen be brighter?

Yes, but the color temperature also affects the perceived brightness.

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[Fulthrotl]

Yes, but the color temperature also affects the perceived brightness.

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5000 K is daylight, so colors come out correct.

 

[GoldDigger]

5000 K is daylight, so colors come out correct.

Yes and no. The psychology of color vision makes people uncomfortable with a daylight spectrum inside
For clothing and makeup you ideally want to be able to switch between the two, since they may need to look "good" under either type of light.
And even though the single axis measurement of color temperature says daylight, the peaks and valleys in the spectrum do not necessarily say that to our mind!

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[kwired]

Yes and no. The psychology of color vision makes people uncomfortable with a daylight spectrum inside
For clothing and makeup you ideally want to be able to switch between the two, since they may need to look "good" under either type of light.
And even though the single axis measurement of color temperature says daylight, the peaks and valleys in the spectrum do not necessarily say that to our mind!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Never heard psychology come into this before but makes sense. I can't stand to be in areas with 5000K light sources, but natural daylight doesn't bother me.




Natural daylight is what it is on this planet. If our sun were a different temperature, what we call daylight would not be the same as what we call it right now. Daylight does vary some with weather/atmospheric conditions, and even closer to sunrise and sunset then what it is at mid day.

 

[brantmacga]

superbrightleds.com ----- this is where I've bought. You can call them and discuss your application, and they'll put together a cart and email it to you for purchase. Very simple and I've always had good results.

I'd look at the variable temp LED's; they have a wall controller switch to adjust the color temp and lighting level.


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[Knuckle Dragger]

Typically my customers prefer 27 to 35 k in living areas and love the 5 to 65k in thier basements and work shops areas,.

 

[Electric-Light]

You only need two saturated colors to project any color or shade of white you want on a gray wall which is fine if you're lighting up sides of buildings for aesthetics. Any color of light can be expressed with a set of x and y values.

a given composition of light only has one x and y set, but there are many ways to make light that have the same x y values meaning to appear the same on grey screen. Just the right green and red LEDs projected onto the white screen can be made to match the color of low pressure sodium when you're directly looking at the ceiling. This is the extent of what kelvin CCT tells you. When you're looking at objects lit from indirectly light bounced from that ceiling, you can see, red, green and yellow with the first example, but the second example made of just yellow light will render everything in shades of yellow. But when you're looking at the light itself you can't tell a difference because they both stimulate the red and green receptors in your retina at the same proportion.

You would use full spectrum lamps used in auto body shops if you want to duplicate how they look outside, or you use 735 or 741 lamps if you want to see how the clothes will look at the office. Mercury discharge makes precisely the same spectrum and you can expect all triphosphor lamps to render similarly. So precise that phosphorless fluorescent lamps are used as standards for calibrating spectrometers.

Solid state fluorescent lamps are made with a single color bluish LED buried behind a phosphor embedded translucent rubber goop. Unfortunately, unlike mercury, the spectral emission of blue LED elements can vary between near violet to near green so they're machine sorted like sifting out different grain sizes. The fluorescent phosphors are blended to different shades of yellow for a range of nm emission so they combine together to form the intended kelvin and tint appearance so the lamps look very similar when you look at them or see their light on a white wall to compensate for manufacturing variations in LED chips. What this means is that >= 80 CRI label means you can have anything from 80 and better mingled together and despite having very close side-by-side white wall rendition, you could have noticeably different color rendition from two identical UPC solid state fluorescent lamps.

There are reddish, bluish and greenish receptors and they overlap together. Yes, they're -ish. The peaks don't line up for cameras since the color filters on bayer filter aren't made of the same stuff as in our retinas. So the interaction of spectral reflection of pgiments in fabrics, LED blue element manufacturing variations make LEDs very susceptible to color rendition variation at a greater degree than color variation you see on walls.

If your white balance lock on a grey card at one area you can experience color skew as you move around since the variations in blue LED element emission peak in each LED lamp can cause color shifts different than how our eyes see things. Basically the emphasis of production variation compensation for LED is how visually close they look to our eyes when you look at a grey/white wall lit by them or when you look at the fixtures but not how consistent colors illuminated by them are rendered. For these reasons, the best choices are incandescent, 741 or 735 common fluorescent in commercial buildings or affordable color match lamps like F40/DSGN50.

The blue light is passed through as part of the visible light composition. The type of drift LEDs suffer is analogous to frequency instability while fading phosphors that both regular and solid state type lamps suffer from are analogous to voltage drift.

 

[al hildenbrand]

Never heard psychology come into this before but makes sense. I can't stand to be in areas with 5000K light sources, but natural daylight doesn't bother me.




Natural daylight is what it is on this planet. If our sun were a different temperature, what we call daylight would not be the same as what we call it right now. Daylight does vary some with weather/atmospheric conditions, and even closer to sunrise and sunset then what it is at mid day.

When working with home owners, I have found that most are simply bewildered by the amount of choices that are required to be made when buying a new light source, so much so that they can't even take in and contextualize all the facts (lamp specifications) that are now on the common lamp packaging.

I have found the best success communicating to home owners about lighting parameters by starting with our ancient ancestors who, having just discovered fire, found safety, community, comfort and food by firelight, a light strong in yellows and reds. The modern plain old incandescent grocery store style 60 Watt frosted A19 bulb was rich in yellows, and harkens back to firelight. We, as 21st Century humans, are psychologically predisposed to experience the 2700 to 3500 degree Kelvin light sources as Hearth and Home.

I then tell the home owner about how modern lights don't show all colors on uses the light to see. That the "better" bulb will have a higher "color recognition index" (CRI).

Explaining that reading the packaging information will show the degrees Kelvin and the CRI and to make the choice, first, with those to specifications, before choosing based upon price. Most home owners I talk with are happily jotting down a note or two at this place in our conversation. There, of course, is a lot more information to consider, but this gets over the bewilderment hurdle, in my opinion.

 

[kwired]

When working with home owners, I have found that most are simply bewildered by the amount of choices that are required to be made when buying a new light source, so much so that they can't even take in and contextualize all the facts (lamp specifications) that are now on the common lamp packaging.

I have found the best success communicating to home owners about lighting parameters by starting with our ancient ancestors who, having just discovered fire, found safety, community, comfort and food by firelight, a light strong in yellows and reds. The modern plain old incandescent grocery store style 60 Watt frosted A19 bulb was rich in yellows, and harkens back to firelight. We, as 21st Century humans, are psychologically predisposed to experience the 2700 to 3500 degree Kelvin light sources as Hearth and Home.

I then tell the home owner about how modern lights don't show all colors on uses the light to see. That the "better" bulb will have a higher "color recognition index" (CRI).

Explaining that reading the packaging information will show the degrees Kelvin and the CRI and to make the choice, first, with those to specifications, before choosing based upon price. Most home owners I talk with are happily jotting down a note or two at this place in our conversation. There, of course, is a lot more information to consider, but this gets over the bewilderment hurdle, in my opinion.

I agree that most people don't have a clue. They possibly see "soft white", "neutral white", and "daylight" on the packaging.

They then select one, bring it home and end up with all three scattered throughout the house, and it is worst when you have two color temps in the same area.

When it is my decision, I try to go with 4000K. Reasonable color rendition but not annoyingly perceived brightness either.

 

[Electric-Light]

When working with home owners, I have found that most are simply bewildered by the amount of choices that are required to be made when buying a new light source, so much so that they can't even take in and contextualize all the facts (lamp specifications) that are now on the common lamp packaging.

I have found the best success communicating to home owners about lighting parameters by starting with our ancient ancestors who, having just discovered fire, found safety, community, comfort and food by firelight, a light strong in yellows and reds. The modern plain old incandescent grocery store style 60 Watt frosted A19 bulb was rich in yellows, and harkens back to firelight. We, as 21st Century humans, are psychologically predisposed to experience the 2700 to 3500 degree Kelvin light sources as Hearth and Home.

I then tell the home owner about how modern lights don't show all colors on uses the light to see. That the "better" bulb will have a higher "color recognition index" (CRI).

Explaining that reading the packaging information will show the degrees Kelvin and the CRI and to make the choice, first, with those to specifications, before choosing based upon price. Most home owners I talk with are happily jotting down a note or two at this place in our conversation. There, of course, is a lot more information to consider, but this gets over the bewilderment hurdle, in my opinion.

2700K is the default warm white color for most things residential and 3000K is reasonably close enough to get an adequate match.
When you start messing with 3500 and 4100K fixtures, you have very limited product selection in other fixtures or lamps to match with.
Household LED lamps are commonly available in 2700 and 5000K but the selection is slimmer for 5000K.

Sticking with 2700K and 3000K to make things reasonably match up. Even if you want to match everything to be 4100/4000, you're not going to find 4000K BR or A lamps without ordering online. You might find permanently installed fixtures in 4000K but when you try to match nearby screw-base fixtures, 5000K is far enough to notice a mismatch.

Fixtures: 2700, 3000 and 4000K
lamps : 2700 and 5000K

 

[kwired]

2700K is the default warm white color for most things residential and 3000K is reasonably close enough to get an adequate match.
When you start messing with 3500 and 4100K fixtures, you have very limited product selection in other fixtures or lamps to match with.
Household LED lamps are commonly available in 2700 and 5000K but the selection is slimmer for 5000K.

Sticking with 2700K and 3000K to make things reasonably match up. Even if you want to match everything to be 4100/4000, you're not going to find 4000K BR or A lamps without ordering online. You might find permanently installed fixtures in 4000K but when you try to match nearby screw-base fixtures, 5000K is far enough to notice a mismatch.

Fixtures: 2700, 3000 and 4000K
lamps : 2700 and 5000K

My findings in big box stores is there is mostly 2700/3000 and 5000. 3500-4000 is sometimes available but doesn't seem to be as available for each lamp shape as the 3000 or 5000.

The average consumer don't know the difference either and you need to look carefully at the packaging or you find out the wrong color was in the wrong place on the shelf.

 

[al hildenbrand]

The average consumer don't know the difference either and you need to look carefully at the packaging or you find out the wrong color was in the wrong place on the shelf.

Yes ! Theory and market availability and all manner of technical opinion does absolutely no good to the average consumer who is bewildered by all the unfamiliarity of the information in the light bulb section of any store. After all, the bulb is out, and a new one must be brought home. . . nothing more. . . "What do you mean I have to learn about my choices before I can choose. I just need one light! And company is arriving for dinner in 25 minutes."

 

[roger]

"What do you mean I have to learn about my choices before I can choose. I just need one light! And company is arriving for dinner in 25 minutes."

No matter how many posts end up in this thread, Al's sums it up period.

Roger

 

[kwired]

"What do you mean I have to learn about my choices before I can choose. I just need one light! And company is arriving for dinner in 25 minutes."

Not many years ago the only choices you needed to learn about was if you needed 40, 60, 75 or 100 watts, soft white or clear bulb and that was mostly it. Other then wattage color differences weren't too noticeably different between a soft white and a clear bulb, especially if the bulb wasn't exposed.

 

[ActionDave]

Not many years ago the only choices you needed to learn about was if you needed 40, 60, 75 or 100 watts, soft white or clear bulb and that was mostly it. Other then wattage color differences weren't too noticeably different between a soft white and a clear bulb, especially if the bulb wasn't exposed.

Way back in the second to the last decade of the twentieth century I was involved in a project where we switched out all of the fluorescent lamps in a bank because they wanted warmer lights or cooler ones, I can't remember. The important part here is that nothing is new, just verses added to the same old song.

 

[JFletcher]

2700-3500K looks like incandescent, 4000-4100K is white, and 5,000-6500 blue/white. A high bay maintenance shop or gas station will want the 5k-6.5k lights, a HO (home owner) generally wants 3-3.5k. and it irritates the heck out of me too to find 2700, 3500, and 4100K lights in the same fixtures, perhaps even the same fixture (singular). Especially as they age and turn all other shades of the spectrum. Office lights are generally 4100K. sconces 3500K. security lights 5k. 6500K is HO (High Output) sign bulbs, at least in my limited experience.

 

[kwired]

Way back in the second to the last decade of the twentieth century I was involved in a project where we switched out all of the fluorescent lamps in a bank because they wanted warmer lights or cooler ones, I can't remember. The important part here is that nothing is new, just verses added to the same old song.

Fluorescent tubes is where you maybe first started seeing different color temps. "Cool white" was still the most common selling lamp though, nobody really knew what color temp was. There was warm white, cool white, and daylight. When the T8 market got going was when the color temp numbers were used more so then names for the colors.