Buck/Boost Wiring method

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MFH

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Journey Electrician
we are installing buck transformers for several amusement rides in an out door location, any recommendations . Running liquid tight between them seems a bit messy (what do I know).
I’m sure there’s another way and space is one problem. Thanks
 
Yes they are permanent . And apologize, because we are boosting the utility that changed from 240 delta to a 208 wye . Everything would love a little high voltage at this point. Some of the older rides are straight 230v . Also the area is seasonal and tends to brown around 4pm to 7pm , (that’s a different elephant). It’s a bit to keep it straight some times because on top of it , there are rides imported from Europe that run on 400 volts . The boost transformers are 15% I believe. Three small ones . We are going to run liquid tight between them. They are exposed outside . I’m just wondering if I’m missing something that’s obvious to someone else’s eyes. A small trough could be used to dress it up a bit, but the location is on the back or side of a hefty post that has a disconnect on the front of it . We are installing the group of three vertically to try and keep them hidden as much as possible , but also accesible. No one wants to see our work , but enjoy the benefits of it. I could be wishing there is another way and is not feasible. I figured why not ask a group that are the ones that are going to judge it the most. I always look at other installations of equipment when out and wonder why they did it a certain way. Thanks for any input and time . Will post pictures of install when completed. Mike
 
I always found that using a trough is the easiest way to make the many splices when using Buck Boost transformers. We were taught in Vo Tech class that it's better to use 3 buck Boost transformers rather then two for better voltage regulation on three phase. Only need one Buck Boost for single phase loads. They make nice NEMA 4 troughs for outdoor use. I would use sealing lock nuts rather then Meyer hubs and short conduit nipples. All of the Buck Boost transformers that I used had two primary & two secondary windings so you would have to splice 24 wires ( not counting grounds ) when using 3 of these transformers.
 
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I agree with garbo in a wireway is often an ideal methiod but your having to mount them vertically poses a challenge on wireway,
 
That’s the way I was leaning ,we have the three transformers , but as augie47 mentioned it’s the vertical aspect. I know they make gasket
ed trough but not sure if it’s rated for vertical install . Can’t think of it off hand it’s rated 4I or simular for dust and possibly gases. I was even thinking using condulets Instead of the flex, I don’t know , it has its place but flex seems cheesy to me.
 
i guess that’s where I wanted to go with this . Manufacturers make solutions to situations like this and I might not know about it,but someone out there does . Or it’s not a profitable situation and it stays the same forever, my favorites (plug mold) still a pain to install and hasn’t changed for my 30 years.
 
we are installing buck transformers for several amusement rides in an out door location, any recommendations . Running liquid tight between them seems a bit messy (what do I know).
I’m sure there’s another way and space is one problem. Thanks
I don't have an issue with liquid tight of some sort. Who cares what it looks like. it is functional.
 
What about using two T-condulets and one LB (or LR or LL) to connect the vertical stack?

All of the connections can be made within the transformer wiring compartments.
 
What about using two T-condulets and one LB (or LR or LL) to connect the vertical stack?

All of the connections can be made within the transformer wiring compartments.
I think it might depend on the circuit size. On larger circuits (>50amp), often connections in the transformer compartments are a PIA. Thats where a wireway comes i handy.
 
I think it might depend on the circuit size. On larger circuits (>50amp), often connections in the transformer compartments are a PIA. Thats where a wireway comes i handy.
I see. Are the lead wires long enough to leave the wiring compartments, pass through nipples, and make splices? That hasn't been my experience.

Last time I wired BBs was about a year ago, where I added a third unit to convert an existing boost set-up from open delta to wye for a new machine.

The two were side-by-side next to the panel. I cut another EMT to match, added the third, rewired everything, feeding the wires from unit to unit.
 
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... we are boosting the utility that changed from 240 delta to a 208 wye . Everything would love a little high voltage at this point. Some of the older rides are straight 230v . Also the area is seasonal and tends to brown around 4pm to 7pm , (that’s a different elephant). It’s a bit to keep it straight some times because on top of it , there are rides imported from Europe that run on 400 volts . The boost transformers are 15% I believe. Three small ones .

Do the rides need 120V for lighting and/or other purposes, and were they previously served from a 240V high-leg delta? You'll be getting 138V L-N after boosting a 208V wye up to 240V. Of course you can still get 120V directly from the unboosted 208V wye source.
 
Synchro , that’s an excellent point , the power is split between motive 3 phase and that’s was our main concern , control and that has an electronic transformer you put anywhere between 100v to 200v you get 24volt out and lighting i believe is a magnetic transformer and I’m going to look into that , hopefully not that big of an issue. As for the method, by the time I got on site ,our guys had done a excellent job running the flex between them . I could not have done better Or prouder . We used 8 awg and the tails didn’t leave the compartment So feeding thru was the best option . You replace one ,you replace all. not that familiar with doing BorB what I did know was a while ago doing yogurt machines I think the voltage had to be close to the manufacturer specs. Didn’t last long but soft serve yogurt was everywhere for about a year then died.
 
I don't have an issue with liquid tight of some sort. Who cares what it looks like. it is functional.
What about using two T-condulets and one LB (or LR or LL) to connect the vertical stack?

All of the connections can be made within the transformer wiring compartments.
I thought about that but use T’s instead, they where done by the time I got on site and look good using 1/2” flex.
 
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