Built in fireplace minimum circuit required

Q

quindug

Member
Location
Washington
Occupation
Electrician
I have a built in electric fireplace going into a home, and the specs say 1500 watts and it needs a 15 amp circuit. I'm confused though, wouldn't this need a 20 amp circuit as it is considered a fixed electric space heater and would have to be a minimum of 125% of the 1500 watts? I'll attach a link to the specs.
Thank you

www.woodlanddirect.com

SimpliFire Allusion Platinum Electric Fireplace - 50" | Woodland Direct

The SimpliFire Allusion Platinum Electric Fireplace - 50" brings unparalleled warmth and coziness to any living space. This electric fireplace was designed with comfort and ambiance in mind, being equipped with a large viewing area and minimal framin
www.woodlanddirect.com www.woodlanddirect.com
 
This is my thought as well, I won't have access to the unit until we finish the house in a few weeks. Just wasn't quite sure why the company spec sheet would call for a 15 amp circuit
 
because they have no idea what they are doing. i've received entire rooftop make-up air units, that have GROSSLY mis-engineered electric heating elements, and blowers, on it. they simply do not go and get them UL certified, nor do they have anyone who is educated, doing the engineering on them.
 
If you are roughing in at this point I'd run 12 AWG can always change the breaker if needed, though I'd probably also put in a 20 amp breaker.

Is it hard wired or cord and plug connected? Seems like something that is likely to burn up plugs and receptacles over time.
 
quindug said:
I have a built in electric fireplace going into a home
Click to expand...
It is not for primary heating, so in my opinion the 25% adder for electric heating equipment does not apply.
NOT INTENDED FOR USE AS A PRIMARY HEAT SOURCE.
This appliance is tested and approved as either supplemental room heat or as a decorative appliance. It should not be
factored as primary heat in residential heating calculations.
Click to expand...
 
kwired said:
Is it hard wired or cord and plug connected? Seems like something that is likely to burn up plugs and receptacles over time.
Click to expand...
I've seen lots of receptical/plug failures with 1500 watt heaters. The resi grade recepticals are pretty iffy for running them. Cord caps too. Even with good quality 14 gauge cords. So many 1500 watt block heaters for truck and equipment engines. The molded on cord caps are always the failure point. I just had one fail last week and it was an expensive cord. I replaced it with a Hubble
 
kwired said:
If you are roughing in at this point I'd run 12 AWG can always change the breaker if needed, though I'd probably also put in a 20 amp breaker.
Click to expand...
Agreed. 12.5a is close enough to 15a that I would want all of the heat coming from the heater.
 
I heat some engines. The cord cap is a problem. We had a couple appliance cords we bought for them, same thing. The ends are a problem. I moved a couple outlets and all is well and we made 12 cord for one and it works.
We did some of our own testing and at these loads. 13A or so there was heating and and minor flaws showed up on 14 that didn't with 12
 
We put a heater on this 4 way. I suspected a flaw from a welder test we used it on. Both receipts heated with 1 loaded.
 

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kwired said:
If you are roughing in at this point I'd run 12 AWG can always change the breaker if needed, though I'd probably also put in a 20 amp breaker.

Is it hard wired or cord and plug connected? Seems like something that is likely to burn up plugs and receptacles over time.
Click to expand...
I think it can wire up either way hardwire or cord connected according to the brochure. I’m just unsure of what the nameplate will say. I believe it just has a remote control as far as the “on/off”
Would I still need a disconnecting means at the unit? Say a single pole switch, or would a lockout suffice?
 
quindug said:
I think it can wire up either way hardwire or cord connected according to the brochure. I’m just unsure of what the nameplate will say. I believe it just has a remote control as far as the “on/off”
Would I still need a disconnecting means at the unit? Say a single pole switch, or would a lockout suffice?
Click to expand...
I spoke with my inspector. Says it’s a continuous load and has to be at 125% regardless
 
quindug said:
I spoke with my inspector. Says it’s a continuous load and has to be at 125% regardless
Click to expand...
If it's cord and plug no matter what the plug is I'd use a good 20 amp industrial grade receptacle.. It's way worth the little extra for a dedicated circuit. Especially on I2R heating circuits. I've seen way too many close calls on I2R heating circuits that only didn't become a big deal because the receptacle was on a cinderblock wall, and the floor was concrete
 
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