can lite lamp burn out issue

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Remove the lamp and look down to the bottom of the lampholder. Make sure that the "tongue" that carries the current through the lamp isn't pushed down flat against the bottom of the porcelain. I've seen that happen, and it can cause an arcing event that waaay shortens the life of the lamp.

Or maybe it's something completely different. Good luck...I hate those chase-your-tail kind of assignments.
 
As mentioned, check the center tab in the socket. And install next lamp correctly (DON"T screw it tight... just enough to light, then ? turn).

Use name-brand lamps that are listed for base-up use.
Use rough-service lamps.
Use 130v lamps.
Change to FCL or LED.
 
Same thing my predecessor suggested. Seems like there's a loose contact, that causes the base to arc. That will kill a lamp, especially incandescents, FAST

stew said:
got a can light in a restaraunt that i service that has begun to go thru lamps twice a week . any suggestion?
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Yea if there is vibration you need to change brands to a heavy service type. If they are a R-lamp and a cheap brand vibration will kill the lamp in no time.
 
Yeah, but it's gonna sound like a smart a## answer when I say it. I'm guessing either a voltage problem or a neutal problem. If it's only one I would look at a neutral problem.

Sorry there were no answers when I started to typ this. Those are good ones too.
 
LEO2854 said:
Allso check if the can light has a thermal protector those can go bad as well
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I have never seen a bad thermal protector in the tens of thousands of cans I have installed. If the thermal protector was bad it would not light the bulb or it would come on and off as the unit heats and cools.
 
Drop the can down and check to see if insulation is covering it (can be very messy). While its down redo all the connections and yes check the socket and replace with quality lamp.
Can not rule out neutral or thermal. Check to see if this can is the last one in the loop, if so chase it back to where it started. Intermitent problems are never fun
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I have never seen a bad thermal protector in the tens of thousands of cans I have installed. If the thermal protector was bad it would not light the bulb or it would come on and off as the unit heats and cools.
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If the thermal protector goes bad it can kill cheap lamps i have seen lots of them:)
 
LEO2854 said:
If the thermal protector goes bad it can kill cheap lamps i have seen lots of them:)
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Tell me how that is possible other than it will turn the lights on and off and eventually burn out a bulb. A TP is nothing more than a thermostat(switch)

I don't know what brand you use but I have literally installed ten thousand or more Halo cans and I can't recall every replacing a TP. I have had them turn on and off because the bulb was not correctly sized.

I will be interested to see the results- I will still bet on the bulbs being 120V because that has been my experience.
 
took a while b4 i could post the answer to this issue. The hamfisted lamp replacer that does thier lamp replacements tightened to lamp too tight maybe more than once. the shell twisted and became loose from the rivets that hold it to the base. twisted just right and viola the lamp lights....... for a while until the neutral gets hot at the point of contact then I assume arcing takes the lamp out. With a meter had neutral at the point where the wire connects but not at the shell itself. New lampholder and all is well at the Red Lobster.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Tell me how that is possible other than it will turn the lights on and off and eventually burn out a bulb. A TP is nothing more than a thermostat(switch)

I don't know what brand you use but I have literally installed ten thousand or more Halo cans and I can't recall every replacing a TP. I have had them turn on and off because the bulb was not correctly sized.

I will be interested to see the results- I will still bet on the bulbs being 120V because that has been my experience.
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Well Dennis we have halo and other brand's Allmost all the time when i have run into bad "TP" it has been because of oversized lamps.

And i do not know if the on off cycle effect incadecent lamp life span wise so with that statement i was wrong.
The on off cycle does however shorten the life of CFLs
The can lights are not coming through with "TP's any more so that problem will go away over time.:)
 
stew said:
took a while b4 i could post the answer to this issue. The hamfisted lamp replacer that does thier lamp replacements tightened to lamp too tight maybe more than once. the shell twisted and became loose from the rivets that hold it to the base. twisted just right and viola the lamp lights....... for a while until the neutral gets hot at the point of contact then I assume arcing takes the lamp out. With a meter had neutral at the point where the wire connects but not at the shell itself. New lampholder and all is well at the Red Lobster.
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Told you it was a neutral issue.:grin:

I just noticed where you are from, my sister in law is near there, in Browns Point.
 
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