Can you Semi Flush a Nema 3r Loadcenter?

[SparkyAdam]

Hey guys, I am doing a project for a customer who wants me to semi-flush a regular outdoor load center. We use Eaton products primarily, so we are looking at installing the BRP20B200R. I can't find a semi-flush kit that says it will work with this. The Eaton semi-flush kit is an FK1432, but it says it is for use with Meter Enclosures.
Has anyone used this with a standard outdoor load center? Or has anyone semi-flushed an outdoor load center without a kit?

 

[AC\DC]

I have semi flushed them without kit. Just framed out supports in back and trimmed around the panel.
The semi flush kit just makes it easier does not change the stricter if the panels

 

[jaggedben]

Although probably not a major issue, I would seal any small holes at the back of the panel. A NEMA 3R box is not designed to be absolutely water tight and is designed to drain water out the bottom. So if mounted semi-flush that water could end up inside the building.

 

[AC\DC]

Are they not sloped toward the front

 

[letgomywago]

Are they not sloped toward the front

I've never checked but idk I've seen some that look square on the bottom and the rust tends to be anywhere on the bottom KOs not just near the dead front

 

[tom baker]

I have done it, ok for panels that don’t require a lot of cable or conduit entries, as you can’t use the kos in the front of the panel

 

[norcal]

I have seen it done, not willing to try it myself, but they used off the shelf 3R, and flashing tape to seal it to the paper under the stucco lath, and have not seen how they have fared over the years.

 

[letgomywago]

I have seen it done, not willing to try it myself, but they used off the shelf 3R, and flashing tape to seal it to the paper under the stucco lath, and have not seen how they have fared over the years.

In stucco land if the stucco lasts then more weather can get in and be less detrimental in my opinion.

 

[norcal]

In stucco land if the stucco lasts then more weather can get in and be less detrimental in my opinion.

The old 3 coat stucco, scratch, brown, & color coat is not bad, but pretenders like Drivit & others are trash, as is the western one coat. if fall against the western one coat, your hide is going be seriously damaged, but that one seems to have gone away & good riddance.

 

[AC\DC]

A 3r panel for Eaton is the same for semi or surface mount. Semi just comes with adapter plate to attach the panel. Nothing else. I

 

[letgomywago]

The old 3 coat stucco, scratch, brown, & color coat is not bad, but pretenders like Drivit & others are trash, as is the western one coat. if fall against the western one coat, your hide is going be seriously damaged, but that one seems to have gone away & good riddance.

Only ever worked around drivit then when coming back years later I'm thankful I've never really liked the look because it's horribly damaged from hail and ect.

 

[curt swartz]

A 3r panel for Eaton is the same for semi or surface mount. Semi just comes with adapter plate to attach the panel. Nothing else. I

Are your referring to Combination Service Entrance Devices or Standard 3R load centers? I have never seen a standard 3R loadcenter designed for flush mount. It can be done but they are only 4" deep. It needs to stick out of the wall enough for the hinged door to open. Add the finish will material and 1/2" sheer (standard in my area) you end up with only a small amount of the loadcenter in the wall. Makes it hard to get wires in.

Combination Service Entrance devices are usually 6+ inched deep so the flush rails allow it to stick in the wall 3-1/2" and have enough outside the wall past the finish for the door to open.

 

[curt swartz]

Dryvit can be applied over standard stucco also. Common on projects I work on.

I had Dryvit used on my own house. Its actually the 4th layer. Scratch coat, brown coat, crack membrane with 3rd coat then Dryvit finish coat.

 

[PCBelarge]

This may help.

 

[curt swartz]

This may help.

Those are for multi metering equipment not standard loadcenters.

 

[norcal]

I came across this when reading a link, and thought it may be of interest in this thread, a FAQ from Schneider Electric regarding semi flush mounting their 3R loadcenters.

Does Square D offer a Flush (or Semi-Flush) mount cover for a Nema 3R HOMELINE or QO load center? | Schneider Electric USA

 

[kwired]

How about getting a N4 enclosure at least 6 inches deep and larger than your load center and mount a N1 load center inside it? Make it big enough to contain timers or other similar items as well if you have those.

 

[SparkyAdam]

Thanks for all the replys. This gave me a lot to go on!

 

[BHastings]

Hey guys, I am doing a project for a customer who wants me to semi-flush a regular outdoor load center. We use Eaton products primarily, so we are looking at installing the BRP20B200R. I can't find a semi-flush kit that says it will work with this. The Eaton semi-flush kit is an FK1432, but it says it is for use with Meter Enclosures.
Has anyone used this with a standard outdoor load center? Or has anyone semi-flushed an outdoor load center without a kit?

Eaton actually has two semi-flush N3R subpanels but they are not listed in their catalogue they use a convertible main breaker. They discontinued the attached 16/32 and now have a 20/40 and I think a 30/40 or 40/40.

They are the only manufacturer I know that makes this and if they let people know they did they would sell a hell of a lot more.

 

[Jraef]

Are they not sloped toward the front

Nope, no need to be if not designed to be semi-flush. The definition of 3R is not that water will not enter, it's that water will not build up to make contact with any live parts. If there is a hole on a flat bottom, that works, no need to go to the extra hassle of trying to fold the steel so that the bottom is sloped forward. In some designs, there is no drilled or punched round hole, they purposely just leave little gaps in the folded corners. If those corners are buried inside the wall, that's where the water goes, rotting the framing. And the "water" does not need to be entering from the top or doors, it can be internal condensation as a result of the warmth of the current carrying conductors and the outside cold air on the steel.