Challenger panel replace or repair?

Status
Not open for further replies.
jute

jute

Senior Member
Location
SO CAL
Hi, I have a challenger panel that one of the bars is burnt and melted away it's in an apt, complex and I'd appreciate any suggestions on the best way to resolve this...I'm told that challenger has been out of buisness for about 15years and I won't be able to find parts is there a panel that is compatable???If not what would be the best replacement???It is a Callenger Panel Model #SL12 (6-16) cgn with ground bar.It holds (8)single breakers I've posted 2 pics of the panel http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i201/jute57/panel1.jpg
Any questions or if more info is needed please e-mail me...Thanks, Jerry
 
celtic

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
jute said:
....what would be the best replacement?
Click to expand...

The "best" replacement would be what the customer is willing to pay for.
I'm partial to QO and that's what I try and "sell".

I would be looking for what caused this meltdown
 
Minuteman

Minuteman

Senior Member
Location
The Sooner Nation
Challenger was bought by Cutler Hammer and became part of the CH "BR" series. Celtic is right install what the customer can afford.

The CH BR816L125FDP 125 Amp Main Lug flush mount panel holds 8 BR or 16 "BD" breakers and would be the same general dimensions as your Challenger panel.

In the photo however, the 2 pole breaker on the right (can't read the amperage) is double lugged. Are the other breakers double lugged? You might need to upgrade the panel or install type "BD" twins.
 
kbsparky

kbsparky

Senior Member
Location
Delmarva, USA
I knew that Cutler-Hammer bought out the BRYANT (Westinghouse) series to create their BR panels and breakers.

When did they add Challenger to the line?
 
jute

jute

Senior Member
Location
SO CAL
Minuteman said:
In the photo however, the 2 pole breaker on the right (can't read the amperage) is double lugged. Are the other breakers double lugged? You might need to upgrade the panel or install type "BD" twins.
Click to expand...

The2 pole breaker on the right is a dbl 25a and it's the only one thats double lugged which I didn't see...isn't this against code and needs to be changed if I do any work to the panel? The the breaker that is failing or was on the melted bar is a Dbl 20a and controls the lighting (which I'll check to see that #12 is going to it)and bedroom outlets. The other remaining (4) breakers are single pole 20a.As far as what the customer wants, I told him I'd see if I could find parts (bars) and if not I'd have to change the panel out and was told to do what I had to to get it done...... I've had my c-10 license since Oct '03 and I'm just starting to try and get into this type of electrical work. I have been doing mostly lighting, switches/outlets/breakers/troubleshooting for residential/apt complexes. I'm more interested in doing it the right way and up to code with pemits etc,,,
 
Last edited:
bikeindy

bikeindy

Senior Member
Location
Indianapolis IN
celtic said:
The "best" replacement would be what the customer is willing to pay for.
I'm partial to QO and that's what I try and "sell".

I would be looking for what caused this meltdown
Click to expand...

Maybe this is for another thread but why are you partial to the QO series?
 
S

sparkzilla

Member
A few years ago I saw a QO 60 amp 2 pole that burned the bus. It was a very old panel, though. Earlier this year, I also changed out an old QO panel that had all 20 amp single poles with a few burned on the bus.
 
W

wireman3736

Senior Member
Location
Vermont/Mass.
I would replace the panel, It looks to be a small panel so you wouldn't be replacing many breakers, by the time you special order the bar and pay the shipping it would be just as cheap to replace the panel IMO. Also are those lugs on the breakers identified for two wires, :)
 
jute

jute

Senior Member
Location
SO CAL
Thanks for all the help on this, it sounds like I should replace the panel with The CH BR816L125FDP 125 Amp Main Lug flush mount panel holds 8 BR or 16 "BD" breakers and would be the same general dimensions as your Challenger panel. Is this right or is the QO breakers better and if so is this also a CH panel that holds (8) single breakers?
 
Last edited:
7

77401

Banned
Location
South of the Border in Houston, Texas
Never repair breaker panels
Always replace them. & leave em room to add on to also.

The problem just looks like a weak loose connection Overheated breaker where it attaches to the buss.
Happens all the time.

Without a doubt SQD QO does appear to have the least of these issues.

Are the wires rated for 125 amp?
They look like aluminum & 100 amp.
 
Last edited:
jute

jute

Senior Member
Location
SO CAL
In my orig picture I can see the wires better and they definately look aluminum but not sure if there rated for 100a or 125a?
 
Minuteman

Minuteman

Senior Member
Location
The Sooner Nation
jute said:
Thanks for all the help on this, it sounds like I should replace the panel with The CH BR816L125FDP 125 Amp Main Lug flush mount panel holds 8 BR or 16 "BD" breakers and would be the same general dimensions as your Challenger panel. Is this right or is the QO breakers better and if so is this also a CH panel that holds (8) single breakers?
Click to expand...

BR816L125FDP means that it is a BR type that holds eight 1" or sixteen 1/2" breakers (or any combination there of). The L means it is main lug, 125 amp, flush mount. (I forget what the DP stands for)

QO is a type breaker made by Square D for their panels. It will not fit a BR panel. Most of us here would agree that it has a better track record than most other breakers. It cost a little more. It depends on what your customer wants and what you want to stand behind.

The 125 amp panel in the picture is legal with 100 amp wire (at least #2 aluminum) as long as the wire is protected with a 100 amp overcurrent protection device in a main panel or disconnect. If this is a main panel without a main disconnect, than there are other issues.

But, by all means replace the WHOLE panel and the double lugged breaker.
 
H

hillbilly

Senior Member
Minuteman said:
BR816L125FDP means that it is a BR type that holds eight 1" or sixteen 1/2" breakers (or any combination there of). The L means it is main lug, 125 amp, flush mount. (I forget what the DP stands for)

QO is a type breaker made by Square D for their panels. It will not fit a BR panel. Most of us here would agree that it has a better track record than most other breakers. It cost a little more. It depends on what your customer wants and what you want to stand behind.

The 125 amp panel in the picture is legal with 100 amp wire (at least #2 aluminum) as long as the wire is protected with a 100 amp overcurrent protection device in a main panel or disconnect. If this is a main panel without a main disconnect, than there are other issues.

But, by all means replace the WHOLE panel and the double lugged breaker.
Click to expand...
Minuteman brings up a good point. If you replace the breaker panel, you may have to bring the service up to code too. If this is the Main for that apartment, and is not located near(est) the point of entry of the service cable into the house, the service cable may have to be replaced too, (or another grounded conductor added if it's in conduit) plus a outside main disconnect added. You also may have to change the grounding system.
IMO, if you can find a replacement buss for the Challenger panel, you can replace it and not have to change anything else since the rest of it is existing. That would be the cheapest (but not the best) solution.
If it were me, I'd sell a new panel any any other work required to bring it up to code. Panel brands are like automobiles, everyone has a favorite. All of them work (some better than others) and will get you where you're going.
I usually use Seimens or GE, with an occasional Square D Homeline thrown in (price sells).
If I were doing a lot of commercial or industrial, I'd probably use QO because IMO it is more "heavy duty", and is priced accordingly.
Some may disagree with this opinion, but my 2 cents worth for free is still a bargain..
steve
 
A

allenwayne

Senior Member
Hillbilly why would you Have to add a grounding conductor in conduit.I can think of an install that does not require a grounding IE:4 th conductor.Take a under slabbed remote panel the conduit enters the meter base and extends under the concrete to the first point of entry under the panel.Just an extended back to back at that point.No disconnct required ,just a MBR panel.
 
celtic

celtic

Senior Member
Location
NJ
bikeindy said:
Maybe this is for another thread but why are you partial to the QO series?
Click to expand...

Just my personal preference....I like the way the N buss is located, the visi-trip CB's..etc.

Sure, it costs more, but I'm worth it :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top