Closet Lighting -- Switching

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billygoat58

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Medina Ohio USA
Morning All...a residential customer needs me to complete lighting in their existing closet using a jamb switch to control lighting. I've only ever used the typical (leviton et al) S1s positioned in the jamb, but their closets were provisioned for a different type of system which I really liked. Looking for guidance from others based on what I saw.

Two boxes are positioned L/R on the front wall of closet (over head of french doors) and a Jbox is located at the center point of doors. To clarify, the closet I need to complete has two provised round boxes and a provised Jbox -- all wiring is in place, except for LV from door jamb at head to Jbox. In a completed closet (same home), there is a device (Q Tran) which contains a relay / tranny and this is switched via a rollerball type switch (low voltage) at R door head. A much simpler and far less carpentry intensve set up. Does anyone on the board do closet lighting this way and if so, what vendors do you use? Thank you to all in advance!
 
If you can, it might be easier to install an occupancy sensor, perhaps a ceiling-mount. When the doors open, the light comes on. I'd set it to the shortest setting, and call it good.
 
...exactly! And yes, looks like an Edwards #44 roller ball contactor would work in tandem. This should work perfectly Fisher, thank you! I'm trying to see the downside of this type of install versus the type I've always done (in door jamb)...this seems like a much easier solution.
 
instead of ball switch why not a std magnetic barrel?
 
I have used the RC-120S for this application as well and it functions great with the Edwards #44 roller ball switch.

I have also have used the line voltage jamb switches and can be more labor intensive to install and they don't fit in some door jambs.
 
billygoat58 said:
Only reason not to Fiona, would be (possibly) having exposed wiring. Here's a pic from a completed closet door within the same home. Wiring is easily hidden using this switch and relay set up.
Click to expand...


Why is that ball switch not on the hinged side of the door. It would look better and depending on how sensitive they are it may not work if there isn't a tight fit.

The problrm I have with this setup is where to install the relay. It is fine with recessed cans or surface mount but when there is a surface fluorescent then the wire is visible
 
These closets were set-up Dennis, with an enclosed CFL L/R on head wall above doorjamb. A 2/G jbox is in the center (almost directly above the switch) and will contain the relay. The original set up used a Q Tran device (containing a relay and transformer) at that jbox. Loooks like this Q Tran devices are no longer available.

To your point of the switch, I agree it would be better in the jamb -- current closet door is not tight at head (typical) and a piece of self-stick felt was used to close the contact properly. Even if this occurred within the jamb, it would be an easier fix with a hard shim on the door's edge.
 
One further note, I will be using enclosed Lithonia LED's within the newly lit closet and will revise the CFL-lit closet with same fixtures...poor light quality from the CFL's. Personally, I'd rather use a linear LED fixture at the head wall, but this is already pre-wired for individual fixtures.
 
billygoat58 said:
Only reason not to Fiona, would be (possibly) having exposed wiring. Here's a pic from a completed closet door within the same home. Wiring is easily hidden using this switch and relay set up.
Click to expand...

the std mag barrel is the same as the ball switch except the door itself will need the magnet, etc, so not really sure what you mean by wiring, they both use wiring, but the mag switch is a no physical contact item which can usually be "hidden" in the header and top of door. the mag switch still needs the relay that was posted earlier, etc. the wires in header can usually be grabbed with a expanding claw type of grabber from above (attic), etc. if no attic then its a tad harder, but still not that hard. in the pic, why is the ball switch in middle of door jamb? up high would have been "out of sight" ?
 
Sorry Fiona -- was thinking of old-school magnet switches in my mind...yours would be a viable and good solution.

As for the switch placement, I'm working within existing confines...the EC had already pre-wired and drilled into the door header where I'll be fitting the new gear. Dennis (basically) asked same question and I agree that placement of switch is not ideal...
 
billygoat58 said:
Sorry Fiona -- was thinking of old-school magnet switches in my mind...yours would be a viable and good solution.

As for the switch placement, I'm working within existing confines...the EC had already pre-wired and drilled into the door header where I'll be fitting the new gear. Dennis (basically) asked same question and I agree that placement of switch is not ideal...
Click to expand...

dennis asked you why it wasnt put on the hinge side. from the looks of it, that ball switch was done wrong twice.
 
A quick close to this thread and a thank you to fisherelectric re his suggestion to use the Amprobe and roller-ball S1 set up. Worked great and going forward will make this my best practice for providing lighting within closets. Helped a friend in a recent buildaround at his new home and we used same technique (but in jamb and not at door header) to light his closets. Switch in each jamb controls its own (french doors) linear LED within closet...so much easier and super-slick. :thumbsup:
 
I only did one of these and hated it. I like the idea but problematic. I was told to stub a wire to the closet door and the GC would cut the switchbox in. He cut it into the wrong part of the frame, despite me having the wire in exactly the right place for rear center entry (only option). Box very tight and hard to get wire into as well. By the time I got finished cutting it in right, the door frame was not in too good a shape.

I agree that a prox switch with wire arm would be much better. More expensive but less labor and less trouble long term.
 
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