I have a potential job for a complete rewire where the customer wants to save the plaster and use the base trim as a wireway. Should I try to sell the customer on doing a complete tearout. This is a city location (hoboken, nj) and will probably need to use mc cable. Seems like it would be easiest to do a complete gutting of the property. (at least for me) Any thoughts? I will also be checking with the AHJ on this.
complete rewire using base mouldings
- Thread starter kmc
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petersonra
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern illinois
- Occupation
- engineer
kmc said:
Some people take their plaster walls very seriously.
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
There's absolutely nothing wrong with using this time honored installation technique.
It just takes time.
That's my meal ticket.
Yum!
(Of course, the HO my re-assess the value of his plaster when presented with the estimate of the value of your time. :wink: )
It just takes time.
That's my meal ticket.
Yum!
(Of course, the HO my re-assess the value of his plaster when presented with the estimate of the value of your time. :wink: )
JohnE
Senior Member
- Location
- Milford, MA
I've said before that it is usually less expensive (and probably a better value) to do a complete or partial gut than to fish everything. I'd say the same for your situation. But, If HO wants to just pull baseboard, I'd be glad to price it for him.
It may be less expensive to do the electrical, but a gutting and drywall should more than offset any electrical savings. Switching from plaster to drywall often creates a fair number of framing or trim issues that would need to be addressed before the drywall could be done. It is also likely the owner would resist the replacement of the plaster if it's in good shape.
Working on the house may not be too bad, depending on it's age. If it's an old balloon framed house, it's pretty easy to fish.
One thing to look out for: most lath and plaster houses (at least the ones I'm familiar with) had all the trim put on before the plaster. If you are going to be pulling the baseboards, make sure you cut the plaster away from the board first. Also, check carefully for shims. A lot of times the baseboard is shimmed away from the studs, and the shims are taller than the baseboard. If you try to pull the board, the shim will usually come with it, along with a chunk of wall. With the baseboards out, going around the room should be easy.
Have fun.
Working on the house may not be too bad, depending on it's age. If it's an old balloon framed house, it's pretty easy to fish.
One thing to look out for: most lath and plaster houses (at least the ones I'm familiar with) had all the trim put on before the plaster. If you are going to be pulling the baseboards, make sure you cut the plaster away from the board first. Also, check carefully for shims. A lot of times the baseboard is shimmed away from the studs, and the shims are taller than the baseboard. If you try to pull the board, the shim will usually come with it, along with a chunk of wall. With the baseboards out, going around the room should be easy.
Have fun.
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
I've done jobs where we ran the cables under the base trim. I did sub out the trim removal and reinstallation to a trim carpenter, as I saw that as being the potential headache way outside of my core skill. I'll pull a piece of trim here and there for a service call or small job, but not 100 year old trim for most of the house.
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JohnJ0906
Senior Member
- Location
- Baltimore, MD
Many of the houses I have seen of this age really need the complete gut, because of serious framing issues-cracked floor joists, termites,etc. I did a job for a friend and talked him out of fishing everything and doing the complete gut out. When he found some major termite damage he was glad he did it.
I can appreciate trying to save the trim....but the plaster? This will be a colassal PITA. Just how many cables to do you figure you can hide in/behind a (I'm being generous) 4" - 6" trim? Let's not forget the steel plates you are going to need to protect the cable from the 3" nails for the trim re-install.kmc said:
Why?kmc said:
AC would be fine.
How about a nice 24" trench cut at a convient height for you to work at...no crawling on your hands and knees, high enough that the trim nails won't be an issue, high enough that the trim won't be an issue, etc etc etc.kmc said:
A good plaster man can skim coat the sheetrock and no one would be the wiser.
Do that.kmc said:
The AHJ is tough in Hoboken....I know him very well
Thanks every body for your input. I believe after some thought I am going to to cut out sections out of the plaster for working area and also use the baseboard in a couple of the rooms. The homeowner is going to subcontract out the baseboard removal and remove the areas of plaster for me. I do believe celtic hit the nail on the head about the inspectors in Hoboken. I know they have a tough job (seriously) and have very specific codes to adhere to for safety concerns. The inspection process in this town is what scares me the most. I fugure I am going to add a hefty contingency fee for "unforseen" issues. Thanks again all.
P.S. the plaster is in great shape and cool 120 year old apartment, definitly worth saving. It has been running on two 15 amp circuits!
P.S. the plaster is in great shape and cool 120 year old apartment, definitly worth saving. It has been running on two 15 amp circuits!
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