compressor breaker keeps tripping

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jmartinez1959

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10225 twincities rd galt ca 95632
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electrician
I am working on a Tech Top model GR3-C1-OP-324T-4-BR-D-40 COMPRESOR MOTOR 40HP 3PH 460vac KVA CODE K and it keeps tripping the HEB3B125 BREAKER. The inrush current in my fluke meter at start up is 415A . I though there is a 15 sec window to allow for the LRA but I dont know what to do next.
 

tom baker

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Try
1. disconnecting the belt, how hard does the compressor turn by hand, then start with power
2. What is open ckt voltage,
3. All connections, tight, no overheating?
4. Does the compressor have an unloaded, does it work ok
5. Meg the motor
6. Compare electrical readings with previous readings
Most likely it’s a mechanical issue, belt, bearing, unloader, not electrical

please keep us posted
 
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augie47

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State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
Those are rotary screw compressors. The ones I worked on tended to run at the max motor current (SF amps)
As I recall they started "unloaded" so, as Tom mentioned, you might want to make sure that function is working.
 

Jraef

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This an existing installation. The 125 A breaker supplies the 3p AC disconnect with 3 100A type D breakers and out of the disconnect to the compressor magnetic starter and out to the motor
That highlighted area would be illegal... you cannot use 3 separate 1 pole breakers in lieu of a 3 pole breaker. Someone has cobbled together a Frankenstein disconnect, probably because whatever they had in there before kept tripping or clearing, so they put in the type D breakers because they have a higher instantaneous trip point. But the REAL problem was the motor failing (probably insulation) so the problem kept getting worse and moved up to the 125A breaker, causing it to trip now. On a Siemens HEB breaker, the Instantaneous (magnetic) trip for a 125A breaker will be 1250A. if it's tripping immediately, that's a SERIOUS problem.

The motor and leads needs to be tested for insulating breakdown and repaired or replaced, then you need to remove those 3 separate 1 pole breakers and install either a 3 pole breaker or fuses.
 
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augie47

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Yep, that’s an air screw according to the internet. Has the wiring been changed? Or motor? If so, it’s probably running backwards.
Not saying "backwards" is not a possibility but as I recall if that type compressor runs backwards for any length of time, you carry it our in a bucket :)
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
There should be a normally open solenoid valve that dumps pressure from the air/oil reservoir to allow unloaded starting. They usually have some kind of muffler on the discharge. Those mufflers have been known to plug up. The valve could also be stuck closed.
 

hillbilly1

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North Georgia mountains
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Owner/electrical contractor
Not saying "backwards" is not a possibility but as I recall if that type compressor runs backwards for any length of time, you carry it our in a bucket :)
Had one of my guys at a previous company call and said he couldn’t get one to run more than a couple of seconds. It was a used one the customer brought in to replace an old piston compressor. I asked him if he checked the rotation, and if it was running backwards, flip two phases. ( he didn’t tell me it was an air screw, probably wouldn’t have known the difference anyway) He calls back, and said he tried it several times, still tripping. I drive down there (it was in South Georgia) everything looked good, put the meter on it, flipped it on, rattles, trips the breaker. Flipped the phases, turn it back on, purrs like a kitten! He was swapping all three wires every time, even though I specifically told him to swap only two wires. I also found someone bypassed the phase loss relay, or it wouldn’t have started at all.
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
Not saying "backwards" is not a possibility but as I recall if that type compressor runs backwards for any length of time, you carry it our in a bucket :)

Most won’t run backward. They’ll build up a lot of pressure against the closed inlet (almost instantly, just a revolution or two) and stall the motor.
 

paulengr

Senior Member
A Megger test is NOT an acid test for motors. It catches a lot of failures but only if the slot insulation burns through. You can have for instance turns broken or shorted on the ends and it meggers just fine. Because the motor resistance is in the milliohm range your Fluke is useless to detect shorted turns except in extreme cases.

Once in a very rare while I run into motors that have defects not detectable offline. For instance damage in the middle of the slot often passes all tests if the damaged coil doesn’t ground to the slit.
 
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