concrete anchoring

[active1]

Tapcons for most items here.
One key is to use a slightly different size bit depending on material.
Soft old brick needs a smaller bit while hard cement needs to be a bit bigger.
I use a inpact tool for driving. Make sure the drive bit is not worn out.
Allways use the larger size, 1/4 with the hex head.
Also a cordless drill set on low hammer mode works good for driving.
Corded drills never worked well for me.
Many times they can be tightened or loosend with a screw driver such as to amake an adjustment.
Also keep in mind hollow spots and where the bulk of the thread is at on the tapcon.

They have stainless tapcons listed if you want the look but have never seen them.
http://www.itwbuildex.com/catpdf1/tapcon.pdf
1/4x1" Tapcons in 2000 PSI concrete can hold 750 lbs tension and 900 shear.

 

[quogueelectric]

Tapcons are my last choice except for door or slider plates which have nothing to do with electrical work. In concrete either set a steel anchor or split wedge or set a lead anchor as long as it is not in the ceiling. These anchors take seconds to install if you are used to using them. The key is being set up right with a fastening carry all with all the parts readily available there is no excuse for ineficiency other than a look in the mirror. I have totes set up in my truck which will accomodate any fastening situation in seconds. This is the bulk of our work FASTENING.

 

[DanZ]

Epoxy Glue-- Nobody has mentioned it and I haven't tried it, but it should be considered a possibility.

I've done...eh...well, I've spec'd that for anchoring new steel columns & vertical beams in existing construction. It's a lot of work for small things, I think.

RedHeads & Inserts-- Most use the RedHead threaded studs.

Hehe, I was reading a spec blue print on a pre fab steel storage building a while back, and came across some odd call outs for screws. I asked the architect if he knew what, specifically, they were and he told me he thought they were "Some type of truly self tapping screw, you know, so you can just screw it like a RedHead...and...Dan, why do you have that funny look on your face?" I almost lost it when he said that! Then again, I do have a dirty mind. I should take it out and clean it some time...:roll: :grin:

 

[220/221]

1/4" plastic anchors with 1 1/4" x 10 screws for small stuff, 2" screws for larger stuff and sleeve anchors for bigger stuff.

I HATE non reversible anchors systems like bulldogs or whatever you call those lead things with the mushroom heads that you drive in.

 

[POWER_PIG]

1/4" plastic anchors with 1 1/4" x 10 screws for small stuff, 2" screws for larger stuff and sleeve anchors for bigger stuff.

I HATE non reversible anchors systems like bulldogs or whatever you call those lead things with the mushroom heads that you drive in.[/QUOTE
Agreed.....those G-Golly drive pins suck if for whatever reason you have to move something that is tatooed to the wall by those darn things. Plastic anchors w/10 screws are cheap and very strong for mounting light work like boxes and conduit exposed on block. Switchgear and the likes, I'll be using tapcons or redhead type anchors. If you know how to install them proper, they will never let you down. I spose its just a matter of what your used to.

 

[macmikeman]

I keep seeing an ad on tv where a guy glues a hammer up to the ceiling with a tube of goop from the Elmer's company, and walks away from it and it holds. Trouble is I bought a tube of the same product to help secure an undercab light to a stainless steel workbench at a resturant kitchen. I had to support the fixture in place with wood for 24 full hours before it could be left unsupported. It is no better than plain old plywood adhesive. So save your money.... Tapcons are a great way to support on concrete block walls. In places with prestressed concrete they are pretty hard to drive in all the way, even the 1/4" size ones.

 

[Smart $]

I HATE non reversible anchors systems like bulldogs or whatever you call those lead things with the mushroom heads that you drive in.

The better version (uncertain of mfgr at present) are reversible with slotted-head screw-type drive pins. It's probably a patent infringement for other mfgrs to copy this feature.

 

[Smart $]

I keep seeing an ad on tv where a guy glues a hammer up to the ceiling... save your money...

Are you sure "ya got the right stuff"?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7nYtfcpVH4

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/subcategory.asp?CatID=45&SubID=113

I've used the stuff and it seamed to work pretty good... but can't say I used it to instantly tack a hammer to the ceilng

In places with prestressed concrete [Tapcons] are pretty hard to drive in all the way, even the 1/4" size ones.

That's why driving 'em with a rotohammer equipped with a 'condriver' is hard to beat. The slower, and higher percussive impact helps to drive them in... and for the ones that don't quite make it, simply switch into reverse, back 'em out a little and go for home again... which usually works... or twists the head off :grin:

 

[jeremysterling]

I haven't tried this but I heard if your tapcon pulls out you can put some small piece of stranded copper in the hole and it holds like a champ.

Be careful drilling for anchors in post tension decks. Know where the cables are and how shallow an anchor you'll need.