Condensation

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Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Last year a customer changed from LP to NG for their boiler and along with burner updates improved its flake making performance. One of the side affects is increased condensation around the steam kettles and consequently some controls at the top of the tank closer to a 2x2 ventilation opening. Duct seal in the openings
, a threaded cover with anti seize and rubber gasket
failed to stop moisture from collection in the control heads Not a lot but enough for damage to occur.

We inverted a cheap Styrofoam cooler over the heads to keep them warmer for a longer period time during daily down time. Any other suggestions?
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Last year a customer changed from LP to NG for their boiler and along with burner updates improved its flake making performance. One of the side affects is increased condensation around the steam kettles and consequently some controls at the top of the tank closer to a 2x2 ventilation opening. Duct seal in the openings
, a threaded cover with anti seize and rubber gasket
failed to stop moisture from collection in the control heads Not a lot but enough for damage to occur.

We inverted a cheap Styrofoam cooler over the heads to keep them warmer for a longer period time during daily down time. Any other suggestions?
Room for any kind of enclosure heater within?
 

drcampbell

Senior Member
Location
The Motor City, Michigan USA
Occupation
Registered Professional Engineer
I doubt this has anything to do with using a different fuel.
It sounds like the pipefitters created a steam leak when doing the conversion. Or worse, a flue-gas leak. (flue gas contains a lot of water vapor) Neither one should be getting into the controls.
Look for the root cause.
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
I doubt this has anything to do with using a different fuel.
It sounds like the pipefitters created a steam leak when doing the conversion. Or worse, a flue-gas leak. (flue gas contains a lot of water vapor) Neither one should be getting into the controls.
Look for the root cause.

I second the motion.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
The flue is in a different part of the building. Only change to Piping would have been done at the boiler for a new burner. The kettle could have developed a leak under its insulation and second skin, or any leak that was there is more noticeable now that more steam is available.

I agree the condensation should not be getting in the control heads, but it is.
 
. Duct seal in the openings
, a threaded cover with anti seize and rubber gasket
failed to stop moisture from collection in the control heads Not a lot but enough for damage to occur.

When I worked in the lumber industry we had a photo eye array that scanned the edge of logs overhanging the saw edge of the head saw carriage. At the end near the band saw there was water spray to lubricate and keep the pitch from sticking to the saw. The eyes were inside a high quality enclosure. All of the things you listed were tried to keep moisture from fogging the photo eyes.

I agree the condensation should not be getting in the control heads, but it is.

I feel for you!

That is an idea, but would require an additional conduit entry and consequently another opening for moist air.

We also tried cabinet heaters and still had the fogging issues. What did work for us was to use a regenerative blower (Fugi, Gast, Rotron, ect.) and blow air (from a dry area outside the building) into the end of the enclosure farthest from the conduit entrances. The blower would heat the air about 20 degrees over ambient and force the moist air out the conduit. In our situation it was worth the effort. Only you can decide how much it's worth to you!
 

Jraef

Moderator, OTD
Staff member
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
Occupation
Electrical Engineer
If you can't keep it out, add one of these Corrosion Inhibitors to the enclosure:
http://www.hoffmanonline.com/stream_document.aspx?rRID=233653&pRID=6662

I would buy the tape and just put in a small piece, you don't need much. They emit a vapor that coats the electrical components with a hydrophobic compound, which prevents the moisture from interacting with the conductive parts (called "disolution of electrolyte"). They will have to be replaced periodically, I generally recommend once per year.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
If you can't keep it out, add one of these Corrosion Inhibitors to the enclosure:
http://www.hoffmanonline.com/stream_document.aspx?rRID=233653&pRID=6662

I would buy the tape and just put in a small piece, you don't need much. They emit a vapor that coats the electrical components with a hydrophobic compound, which prevents the moisture from interacting with the conductive parts (called "disolution of electrolyte"). They will have to be replaced periodically, I generally recommend once per year.

Sounds like those should help. I've also wondered about those little silica gel packs for gun safes.
 
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