allanc
Member
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
I'm in the process of doing our restaurant hood. Hood and
panel are being installed by other, but I'm working on the outlets
under the hood (5 separate 3/4" EMT under 16' hood)
Hood (CaptiveAire) manufacturer said shunt trip panel, or contactor panel
or relay panel were all good. Their control box would take care of
controlling lights/exhaust/intake (which were also fed control and power
from their box.
My original plan was to put in shunt trip 100A breaker feeding subpanel
and wire all the underhood circuits from there.
Fire inspector wanted exhaust on, makeup air off, lights off, gas off, and
all plugs under hood off on ansul activate. They were fine with a shunt trip
breaker feeding a subpanel for all the plugs. They didn't seem to care
about whether gas was shutoff when hood powered down or anything
else that was listed as an option in the CaptiveAire control.
However, I had building inspector out for rough framing and asked
about the subpanel plan. He said he would prefer not to see a subpanel
2 feet from hood in kitchen area and go the relay/contactor box route instead.
======================================================
Any pointers to information on going the contactor route? Looks like
all the breaker manufacturers also make contactors, and they're
available in Compact, Definite Purpose, and Lighting flavors.
I need 6+ circuits, with room for more (leaving some empty conduit)
I was going to use the SquareD contactors, but didn't see panels--does
everyone just put them in a NEMA box? The NEC seems to be mostly
silent about most of this, but there is a little from NFPA on various parts of it.
======================================================
My background is EECS rather than being a full time electrician.
I'm open to subbing this, but given the quality of the work I've seen
many doing, would prefer to do it myself right.
(and this one has been a doozy--everything looked neat and
had done by licensed people with inspections 20 years ago)
BUT
--every panel had every slot improperly and completely filled with tandem breakers,
--every conduit had been stuffed without derating,
--12 conductors including 3x #4s in a 1"; I don't know what would possess
someone to stuff 7 #12 in a 1/2" with 4 bends when there was plenty of
room to run 3/4 or 1"
--unlabeled "multiwire" circuits, sometimes sharing same phase
or tying 3+ circuits on a single neutral
--bad tie ins to knob and tube,
--every box overfilled (5 conduits and 22 conductors entering a 4x4)
--grounding seemed to be an afterthought (single wire and sheet metal screw
in main panel, tied to a water pipe that was no longer there).
--and on top of that, multiple circuits from the residence adjoining
were mixed on the commercial side and vise versa.
panel are being installed by other, but I'm working on the outlets
under the hood (5 separate 3/4" EMT under 16' hood)
Hood (CaptiveAire) manufacturer said shunt trip panel, or contactor panel
or relay panel were all good. Their control box would take care of
controlling lights/exhaust/intake (which were also fed control and power
from their box.
My original plan was to put in shunt trip 100A breaker feeding subpanel
and wire all the underhood circuits from there.
Fire inspector wanted exhaust on, makeup air off, lights off, gas off, and
all plugs under hood off on ansul activate. They were fine with a shunt trip
breaker feeding a subpanel for all the plugs. They didn't seem to care
about whether gas was shutoff when hood powered down or anything
else that was listed as an option in the CaptiveAire control.
However, I had building inspector out for rough framing and asked
about the subpanel plan. He said he would prefer not to see a subpanel
2 feet from hood in kitchen area and go the relay/contactor box route instead.
======================================================
Any pointers to information on going the contactor route? Looks like
all the breaker manufacturers also make contactors, and they're
available in Compact, Definite Purpose, and Lighting flavors.
I need 6+ circuits, with room for more (leaving some empty conduit)
I was going to use the SquareD contactors, but didn't see panels--does
everyone just put them in a NEMA box? The NEC seems to be mostly
silent about most of this, but there is a little from NFPA on various parts of it.
======================================================
My background is EECS rather than being a full time electrician.
I'm open to subbing this, but given the quality of the work I've seen
many doing, would prefer to do it myself right.
(and this one has been a doozy--everything looked neat and
had done by licensed people with inspections 20 years ago)
BUT
--every panel had every slot improperly and completely filled with tandem breakers,
--every conduit had been stuffed without derating,
--12 conductors including 3x #4s in a 1"; I don't know what would possess
someone to stuff 7 #12 in a 1/2" with 4 bends when there was plenty of
room to run 3/4 or 1"
--unlabeled "multiwire" circuits, sometimes sharing same phase
or tying 3+ circuits on a single neutral
--bad tie ins to knob and tube,
--every box overfilled (5 conduits and 22 conductors entering a 4x4)
--grounding seemed to be an afterthought (single wire and sheet metal screw
in main panel, tied to a water pipe that was no longer there).
--and on top of that, multiple circuits from the residence adjoining
were mixed on the commercial side and vise versa.
