My customer's pool was constructed in the 80's and is original to the house. The customer just bought the house, had the pool re-plastered, and the pool company installed a new 120V wet niche fixture and wired it into that mess in the pic. The light didn't turn on for the customer, so the pool company did a demo for the customer using a generator to prove to the customer the light fixture was not defective, and then told them they need an electrician.
You'll notice in the pics that there's a corroded RMC below the deck box; that was the original pool light circuit. The rest of that abomination seems to be what some handy/homeowner/bad sparky did to get the pool light working after the RMC was abandoned: they tied into a building-original outdoor outlet (which was itself too close to the pool for the 80's), on a circuit wired with #14 NMC, and then added that offset nipple supporting the GFCI/switch. Nothing surprises me any more, and I'm guessing most of you are the same, if you've done much resi service work.
I'm here seeking guidance to make sure I comply with current code standards for fixing this (my jurisdiction is on the 2020 NEC). My plan is to run a new circuit on the exterior surface of the building in EMT, GFCI breaker, #12 insulated ground unspliced all the way to the switch, with a switch in an aluminum Bell box as noted (or PVC box). I'm less clear about extending the switchleg from the switch box to the deck box, as I've never installed one from scratch. That box WAS supported by two threaded conduits, but now only one...does it need two supporting conduits, and if so, could one of them be EMT with a RT connector? I'd rather use LFMC out of the bottom of the deck box and up to the switch. The switch would be about 9 feet from the water, and will be GFCI protected.
The deck box has no #8 bond in it. The conduit run into the center hub of the deck box is red brass which runs to the niche. I've never seen a #8 bond in a deck box around here, but as I've been reading up on current code for this, I've seen that referred to...I'm guessing it's not needed, but if it is, I want to know.
Thanks for reading, looking forward to reading your responses.
You'll notice in the pics that there's a corroded RMC below the deck box; that was the original pool light circuit. The rest of that abomination seems to be what some handy/homeowner/bad sparky did to get the pool light working after the RMC was abandoned: they tied into a building-original outdoor outlet (which was itself too close to the pool for the 80's), on a circuit wired with #14 NMC, and then added that offset nipple supporting the GFCI/switch. Nothing surprises me any more, and I'm guessing most of you are the same, if you've done much resi service work.
I'm here seeking guidance to make sure I comply with current code standards for fixing this (my jurisdiction is on the 2020 NEC). My plan is to run a new circuit on the exterior surface of the building in EMT, GFCI breaker, #12 insulated ground unspliced all the way to the switch, with a switch in an aluminum Bell box as noted (or PVC box). I'm less clear about extending the switchleg from the switch box to the deck box, as I've never installed one from scratch. That box WAS supported by two threaded conduits, but now only one...does it need two supporting conduits, and if so, could one of them be EMT with a RT connector? I'd rather use LFMC out of the bottom of the deck box and up to the switch. The switch would be about 9 feet from the water, and will be GFCI protected.
The deck box has no #8 bond in it. The conduit run into the center hub of the deck box is red brass which runs to the niche. I've never seen a #8 bond in a deck box around here, but as I've been reading up on current code for this, I've seen that referred to...I'm guessing it's not needed, but if it is, I want to know.
Thanks for reading, looking forward to reading your responses.
