Design Standard/Reference
- Thread starter sgunsel
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iaov
Senior Member
- Location
- Rhinelander WI
I guess it depends what kind of design you are doing. Commercial? Industrial? Residential? They are all pretty different animals.
charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
In my opinion, your question is too broad for a good answer. The IEEE color books are a good place to start. For background, the IAEI has a plethora of good books, especially the Soares grounding book. The NEMA Standards have a lot of information that is vital to our industry. Obviously, the NEC and NESC are needed (depends on which side of the service point you are on). Many of the NFPA standards are required to be followed depending on the state you are operating in. Indiana does not adopt NFPA 54 but instead adopts the International Fuel Gas Code. Now is the time to go back and reread the first sentence of this answer.
cadpoint
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Electrician - but not by NC Law.
Sorry, I have nothing on the go see side, but I would use your favorite book store or search engine.
I will make a few personal observations, if you don‘t mind.
You’ll need a lot of code books if you want to be a designer!
You might well be doing the following, but I'll state the following anyway for our fellow readers.
Be it for the drafting side, or for the electrician in the field!
I’m generally making my comments based on larger jobs! ? ? M and up!
Noting you’re an EC, I assume there’s some marginal desire to make a lay-it out in a drawing or a CAD format,
that’s really only required on the larger jobs, or conditions that are dictated by the total aspects of installing electrical work.
I would Hire a EE if your doing anything other than a strip mall space!
If “engineered”, there are, in general not much that missed, you should, fax /copy back and send any questions or problems that
cause RFI’s to be created, directly to the EE.
The better thing, if available is to have your field person mark up any changes they did and correct the CAD format to be the “as built”, later.
Your time and effort can well be spent directing around the field situations / problems, again just my opinion.
Most plans will state right on them that they are not be measured from! Well that’s ok, I usually use there placement and move studs as required.
This can only bite one with residential placement of receptacles, there is a NEC Code requirement for commercial receptacle placement,
be it only a minimum.
Look and study all you can any Panel Schedules and Symbol Legends and Notes, from various EE's if at all available.
The same goes for your symbol legend adopt all to fit your needs. Always review it and drop out things not used in the next job.
Some are sad, some don't represent anything of the PS, SL, or Notes of the items shown on the drawing.
I'd make all you home runs above or over a switch, this will not cause additional work or missed circuit wiring down line.
It just establishes of constant understanding where the source circuit will always be, and it sure helps in trouble shooting as well.
Use and specific symbol of a "J", in a circle or in box with your home run arrow and circuit(s) to be the some size and
type in you legend, for example "J'm" which mean multi-wire verse's
just a "J" circuit for a single circuit junction box.
Now if it's in conduits that opens up the wiring methods but with the ever present use of MC it will not! I’ve been on many a job where the ?” conduit was substituted with much fan fair for MC!
A larger box like a 4-11/16 is a good thing here even with an extension ring if required!
It can also be covered in your Symbol Legend that might includes some notes.
Assuming CAD is the tool used here, Shading is all the craze a 80% or 90% gray for background of architectural work
and it makes your black line of the electrical work jump out.
If still CAD, and a large job, I might consider showing both the Sprinkler head and HVAC diffusers on your drawing, and grey them as well,
I've run many a conduit run based on the HVAC (hard duct layout) and just stayed away from the sprinklers,
as long as your not on either of the other two disciplines plane, you pretty much in the clear!
Note: The HVAC plan will usually be available to use before the sprinkler plan. MO!
It use to be toilets, and stairs, where the Architect pain, the ADA finally took care of that, which also reflect well in State and Regional Building Codes,
but it is still a big concern for us. If your going to draft get all the ADA Code books.
These arrangements and layouts are particular tight in toilets, You have to remember that all the services are in the ceiling,
space is also generally tight and lights will float in the grid easier than the other fixed or ridge disciplines.
Checking height of down lights can sometimes show up as a problem.
We are usually the last in the ceilings of these rooms, and we have to dance with others to get a rough in box in place,
one that won't have to be moved later! My trick here is to drop into the HVAC plane height cause they usually flex to diffusers,
and they can drive on by.
If you do draft a plan, include an elevation plan of all the height s of all the fixtures and devices per the ADA Code.
Receptacle, Switch, E-Lights-Bug and Exit Sign, Telephone, Call Box, thermostat, Refrigerator,
even the bath GFCI and light height if its available. Or just coil the wire in the cavity.
Or secure it so the Gypsum king will make a hole and let it pop out!
Include the receptacle dimensional height in your symbol legend alone with a direct elevation on the plan with each symbol,
and its should show the elevation of the cabinets or kitchen cabinets that might exist as a break room, for the cabinet with
consideration of the back splash height. You can get away with 46” AFF (sideways), is that ADA, I don’t know…
A break room is a kitchen if there is a sink.
Study the Finish Schedule sheet, if none exist get all the cut sheet of the various materials, always!
Note what size of trim finish goes around the door, even a 4” or even 6” splash of wood. (again seems to be a craze in retro-work).
Note which and how the doors are going to be sized and the door support hardware for the job!
I’d also note if the floor is going to be built up like a layer of vainer before kitchen tile or even linoleum, or tile in the bathroom.
If the designer specified a finish height it easily over looked in the field as it goes in and guess who looks silly…
Watch for switches with inside 6” at a doorway or are perpendicular wall transitions to diagonal or angled wall can also cause placement problems!
Watch the end of a commercial hallway, everyone will be there, HVAC, Sprinkler, maybe even the plumber. Your light, exit sign, a bug Light, travelers, even additional services will be there too, plan accordingly.
Sorry for the short lecture! I Hope something here helps…
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