Devices in new block

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dexcoop

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Hello people. I am the project foreman for a large local school project. One school we are doing a renovation and on the second phase an addition on another. This is my first project where I will be installing device boxes in NEW block. I am unsure of what the normal process is with working along side the masons to keep everyone happy.

We are coming from overhead with our conduit to feed device boxes at 24?aff. Should the mason go around and place 3 layers of brick then we set our mud boxes? By doing this we would then have to install a stub. Would we install the stub then have the mason slide his brick over our pipe? That seems silly to me.

This is one application I am yet to come across in my 15+ yrs and I do not want to ask my new employer this question.

Any help would be much appreciated, photos would be so nice.

Thanks guys
 
Silly as it sounds, you have the process figured out correctly. We call this "babysitting" the brickies. Unless you have a boat load of boxes in the block walls, it is a very boring job. We typically have the foreman onsite by himself during this process and he spends the slack time reviewing drawings and writing RFI's ( at least that is our hope).
 
dexcoop said:
Should the mason go around and place 3 layers of brick then we set our mud boxes?
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Yes, but they are not going to just jump around to make your life easier, you need to have someone on sight ready to set a box when the masons are ready in that spot.


Would we install the stub then have the mason slide his brick over our pipe?
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Yes you would install stubs each about 3' long so the mason does not have lift the blocks up too high.

Then you add another etc.

I hate block work.
 
We typically make up the box with a connector, 30" piece of EMT, coupling with duct tape over it and an adapter cover with duct tape over the opening. The brick layer will usually put down a course or two of block and well mark the location and height right on the first block so everyone can see it. When he gets close to the end of the conduit we'll install a 30" or 36" nipple. Usually we'll finish this with the 36" nipple with a 90 degree hook on the end. Biggest problem I see with the brick layer is that they don't really care if the box is straight or crooked. Makes for an ugly installation when the job is finished and all of the cover plates are on an angle.
 
Treat em right and they'll return the favor. If you get a crew of good brickies they have cut in thousands of device boxes. They'll know what to do with the boxes and stubs. Just let them know a course ahead of time so they can make their cuts, hand them the box with a stub attached and make sure they grout around it to hold it in place. I always make up a box/stub combo for them to keep at the saw to test fit each block they cut. As stated above, keep it level and flush with the block. They don't always care how straight it is. It helps to bring in donuts or something. They can make your job very easy or very hard.
 
You'll have to have a guy there when they are blocking up that wall. Have your boxes all premade and ready to go. Taped up. Stubs 2' out the top. Stubs taped. Have a pile of 2' Pvc extensions. Have tie wire ran through the back of the box and out the front for securing. Have your 90's or whatever your'e using at the top ready. Keep tape, glue, couplings and pvc cutter with you. Would be a good idea to have some single gang boxes available and ready if you are using 4 squares with mud rings in case the 4 squares don't fit. Mark the wall with duct tape and your box locations and heights prior to the block lift so you are ready to put them in. Find out where finished grade is on the wall while planning your box locations. Put your ground pigtails in also as the boxes will get grouted in. If you're using masonary boxes watch for them getting pushed out to far. Bond beams will probably go in every 4'. They are horizontal runs of rebar. If a box is going to fall in a bond beam you might have to move it up or down.
 
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