dish washer & disposer plugs.

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la2151 said:
I am really looking for others input? Does NEC prohibit a quad plug under the sink If both plugs are on a seperate circuit?
thanks.

In most cases you can wire the dishwasher and the disposal on the same circuit. There has been much discussion on this in the past so do a search for other posts.
 
la2151 said:
I am really looking for others input? Does NEC prohibit a quad plug under the sink If both plugs are on a separate circuit?
thanks.

I can't see why ? put one in each cabinet if you want.
If you are plugging in the dishwasher check out 422.16(B)(2)
and this is from the U.L. directory DMIY
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/showpage.html?name=DMIY.GuideInfo&ccnshorttitle=Dishwashers,+Household&objid=1074000259&cfgid=1073741824&version=versionless&parent_id=1073985681&sequence=1

Some cord-connected units are suitable for field conversion to permanently connected installation; conversion instructions are provided with the conversion parts kit .
Some permanently connected type dishwashers may be converted to cord connection by means of a cord kit that is available from the manufacturer of the dishwasher.

Some guys are getting tagged for putting them on just any old cord and plug.
 
M. D. said:
Some guys are getting tagged for putting them on just any old cord and plug.

I've heard this.

Other than it being a requirement of the manufacturer that a particular cord must be used, I believe that as long the requirements of Article 400 are met, it's perfectly OK to make a flexible cord for a dishwasher.

I know that others will disagree, and this is only my opinion.

If not, why even manufacture and sell seperate cord and plugs if you can't use them to make a cord?

Is there something special about a dishwasher?

steve
 
I have found that it is much easier to install a one gang box in the sink cabinet. I have a switch leg that goes to the dishwasher space that is run thru the walls.

If the dishwasher is a cord and plug from the factory then I disconnect the switch leg and just put a receptacle in the box. If it is a standard direct wire unit then I just install a switch in the JB. Covers me both ways.
 
I always run 12/3 from the disposal switch to the disposal recept and install a split recep. I also run a 12/2 to the bottom plate behind the DW and direct wire it.

Then I have a switched recep for the disposal, and a hot one for the hot water dispenser they never told me about. :mad:
 
hillbilly said:
I've heard this.

Other than it being a requirement of the manufacturer that a particular cord must be used, I believe that as long the requirements of Article 400 are met, it's perfectly OK to make a flexible cord for a dishwasher.

I know that others will disagree, and this is only my opinion.

Just thought I would share this it is from UL.749

25.2.5 The power-supply cord shall be attached permanently to the
appliance or shall be in the form of a separate cord supplied as part of a
power-supply cord kit with means for connection to the appliance. The
power-supply cord kit shall comply with Clause 25.2A.
25.2.6 The ampacity of the cord and the current rating of the fittings shall not be less than the current
rating of the appliance.
For an appliance rated more than 15 A, the current rating of the attachment plug shall not be less than
125% of the current rating of the appliance.
A 20 A plug shall be acceptable for an appliance rated not more than 4000 W at 240 V. The attachment
plug shall be acceptable for use at a voltage equal to the rated voltage of the appliance.
.

25.2A Power-supply cord kits for use with undercounter or built-in
dishwashers
25.2A.1 A power-supply cord kit intended for the installation of an
undercounter or built-in dishwasher shall include the following:
a) power-supp ly cord, strain-relief means, and push-back relief that complies
with Clause 25.2;
b) a part or model number marked on the power-supply cord kit package, or
in the kit installation instructions;
c) installation instructions; and
d) grounding instructions in accordance with Clause 7.2.2.4(a).
 
480sparky said:
I always run 12/3 from the disposal switch to the disposal recept and install a split recep. I also run a 12/2 to the bottom plate behind the DW and direct wire it.

Then I have a switched recep for the disposal, and a hot one for the hot water dispenser they never told me about. :mad:

I know this is not in reference to the OP, but I am wondering - why you are using 12/3 and 12/2 instead of 14/3 and 14/2 ?
 
Energize said:
I know this is not in reference to the OP, but I am wondering - why you are using 12/3 and 12/2 instead of 14/3 and 14/2 ?


Whaaattt!!! You can't use 14 in a kitchen. ;) :grin:
#12 is better!!! :rolleyes:


There are many who think this is true. For me, #12 only where required or needed. Dishwasher and disposal are not one of those situations.
 
electricmanscott said:
Whaaattt!!! You can't use 14 in a kitchen. ;) :grin:
#12 is better!!! :rolleyes:


There are many who think this is true. For me, #12 only where required or needed. Dishwasher and disposal are not one of those situations.


Are you talking two circuits? What if they get one of those 7 amp disposals and an 11 amp dishwasher?
 
Maybe he's in Tulsa!

Local Rule:

SECTION 302. BRANCH CIRCUITS
302.1 Conductors. Branch circuit conductors shall not be smaller than twelve (12) American Wire Gauge (12 AWG).

(http://www.cityoftulsa.org/ourcity/ordinances/Title52.asp)

The supply houses here don't carry anything #14 (they'll order it if ya ask), Home Depot and Lowes do. I see Home Owners buying the stuff all the time.

Jeremy
Journeyman Electrician
Tulsa, Oklahoma
 
monkey said:
Are you talking two circuits? What if they get one of those 7 amp disposals and an 11 amp dishwasher?

Yes, I am talking about two circuits. One duplex receptacle, break off the tab on the ungrounded side of the receptacle, install a double pole 15 amp breaker, and it's Miller Time....
 
monkey said:
.... What if they get one of those 7 amp disposals and an 11 amp dishwasher?

Simply feed a split-wired outlet from a 3-way switch. Top half is on when the switch is up (disposal) and bottom half is on when the switch is "down" (DW).

Non-coincident loads this way ... :D
 
kbsparky said:
Simply feed a split-wired outlet from a 3-way switch. Top half is on when the switch is up (disposal) and bottom half is on when the switch is "down" (DW).

Non-coincident loads this way ... :D

LMAO:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: !
 
kbsparky said:
Simply feed a split-wired outlet from a 3-way switch. Top half is on when the switch is up (disposal) and bottom half is on when the switch is "down" (DW).

Non-coincident loads this way ... :D

Watch out, the NEC thumpers are going to tell you that's not a listed use of a 3-way switch! :rolleyes: :D
 
kbsparky said:
Simply feed a split-wired outlet from a 3-way switch. Top half is on when the switch is up (disposal) and bottom half is on when the switch is "down" (DW).

Non-coincident loads this way ... :D

Am I reading it right that you'll shut off power to the dish washer if you throw on the disposal? That would be pretty lame... I wonder if the newer dishwashers with all the electronics would come back on when power returned?
 
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