Downsize Wires & Terminating

[mstrlucky74]

I have a bunch of 1-1/4” conduits running through a site andinto a building terminating on 20A breakers. This is for site lighting and Iknow we have to down size to #12’s or 10’s to terminate on the breaker. Howwould the transistion from #4’s to #10/12’s be done? Tap connectors in a box orthe gutter? Splices or terminal blocks? Thanks.

 

[jaggedben]

Are you asking about rules governing it, or asking advice on the best methods? Any connector listed for splicing those wire sizes would be okay. Polaris comes to mind, although that might not be the cheapest.

 

[electrofelon]

I have a bunch of 1-1/4” conduits running through a site andinto a building terminating on 20A breakers. This is for site lighting and Iknow we have to down size to #12’s or 10’s to terminate on the breaker. Howwould the transistion from #4’s to #10/12’s be done? Tap connectors in a box orthe gutter? Splices or terminal blocks? Thanks.

I think it depends on how many we are talking about. if its "not that many" I would just splice in the panelboard. If its "a decent amount", It would be nice to have a separate box or wireway to make the splices in. If its "a ton" some sort of termal block mounted in a box would be nice. Regarding method of splicing, A wirenut would be cheapest, but I think the blue king kong nuts dont go up to #4. A set screw or crimp butt splice is probably the next cheapest, but you have to factor in the time to insulate. A polaris type insulated tap connector is the most expensive, but also the quickest. Sorry, that probably doesnt help much

 

[jumper]

I think it depends on how many we are talking about. if its "not that many" I would just splice in the panelboard. If its "a decent amount", It would be nice to have a separate box or wireway to make the splices in. If its "a ton" some sort of termal block mounted in a box would be nice. Regarding method of splicing, A wirenut would be cheapest, but I think the blue king kong nuts dont go up to #4. A set screw or crimp butt splice is probably the next cheapest, but you have to factor in the time to insulate. A polaris type insulated tap connector is the most expensive, but also the quickest. Sorry, that probably doesnt help much

Sure it does, helpful ideas IMO.

 

[mstrlucky74]

Got it guys, thanks. It's 1-1/4" w/ 6#4 & 1 #12. Each of these conduits feeds (3) 1P circuits in the panel. There are about 11 conduits going to the panel.

 

[infinity]

Got it guys, thanks. It's 1-1/4" w/ 6#4 & 1 #12. Each of these conduits feeds (3) 1P circuits in the panel. There are about 11 conduits going to the panel.

Is the #12 an EGC, if so it needs to also be a #4 on a 20 amp circuit.

 

[kwired]

I think it depends on how many we are talking about. if its "not that many" I would just splice in the panelboard. If its "a decent amount", It would be nice to have a separate box or wireway to make the splices in. If its "a ton" some sort of termal block mounted in a box would be nice. Regarding method of splicing, A wirenut would be cheapest, but I think the blue king kong nuts dont go up to #4. A set screw or crimp butt splice is probably the next cheapest, but you have to factor in the time to insulate. A polaris type insulated tap connector is the most expensive, but also the quickest. Sorry, that probably doesnt help much

Insulated compression sleeve, crimp each side, done. Maybe only about 75 cents to a buck a piece.