Downsizing wire

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karn

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Electrician
Trying to wire up a UPS, the feeder wires are #2 on a 60amp breaker, the UPS has an internal breaker rated for 60amps, the problem is the terminals are slanted towards the connection plate and probably only rated for #6 or #8, except I doubt I'll be able to get even a #8 in there and still close the cover, is it allowed to use a smaller vague wire like #10 or #12 for very short distances at 60amps?
2zp44sl.jpg
 
240.4 will tell you that you need a conductor with a minimum size of 60 amps if this equipment is feed from a 60 amp OCPD. Looks like you'll need a minimum of #6 AWG.
 
I found the nameplate, apparently it only draws 44 apms, I may be able to use a number 8 now even if it is on a 60amp breaker?

I mean it is literally impossible to spread 4 #6 out of a 3/4 inch connector the required distance to connect to the terminals that are about a half inch from the connector, very poor design,
28jljdt.jpg
 
Lots of luck closing that cover

Lots of luck closing that cover

If it was me I would mount a box under what you have and come in with a High flex wire spliced into the box under it. You may find a high temp high flex wire that is rated for the current you need similar to motor lead wire.
 
Don't you also love how they also put the KO's for the in/out leads in the "access door"?

If you don't use fine stranded conductors you probably have a hard time just closing the door.

They likely intended this to have flexible cord connected to it - whether that complies with codes or not.
 
karn said:
I found the nameplate, apparently it only draws 44 apms, I may be able to use a number 8 now even if it is on a 60amp breaker?
Click to expand...
What is the connected load? If 44 amps and a continuous load, 44x1.25=55 amps - need 6 AWG and can protect at 60 amps. If you have less load you can lessen the conductor ampacity and the overcurrent protection. 60 amp internal breaker is to protect the unit more so than to protect your field wiring.
 
I want all of my installations to not only meet but to exceed the code, the first store I installed this item by mounting a handybox extension ring to the entry way, and cut out the appropriate size hole to match the box extension, this was still quite a challenge with #6 thhn, on the second one I installed I had to do the same thing except I used 266 strand #6 mtw, it wasn't much easier, I see In the code book type pfah/tfe wire rated for 73 Amps at #10 awg, but also unsure if I could use this wire to connect to the unit, I'm just trying to figure a way to install this without have to do surgery on the unit or cobb something together that looks tacky
 
I seem to recall one I once connected was a lot like what you have there, limited space and KO's in the access cover:happysad::(

I can't remember if I needed 6 AWG, probably only needed 8 or 10 AWG, because it seems I got both line and load conductors into a 3/4 flex, and ran to a aux gutter (was conveniently located) but you could just go to a junction box then split to wherever necessary. By doing that I could run just one EGC to make it a little less crowded. Seems I didn't have a load neutral either, which helped some - but look carefully, if both your neutral terminals are jumped together only one conductor needs to be run to the unit, which will lessen the crowding a little. Also the neutral possibly can be smaller sized depending on what load is connected to it - also will help with crowding.
 
karn said:
I found the nameplate, apparently it only draws 44 apms, I may be able to use a number 8 now even if it is on a 60amp breaker?

I mean it is literally impossible to spread 4 #6 out of a 3/4 inch connector the required distance to connect to the terminals that are about a half inch from the connector, very poor design,
28jljdt.jpg
Click to expand...

Did you read the manual?
Page 27. https://www.vertivco.com/globalasse...0-10000va-6000rtl630-user-manual-sl-23194.pdf
It recommends #6 and the terminal block will take. #6-#4.
 
It did not come with any manual but I did call the manufacture and they recommended #6, but now I see it shows the 'recommended size' but doesn't specify a minimum
 
karn said:
It did not come with any manual but I did call the manufacture and they recommended #6, but now I see it shows the 'recommended size' but doesn't specify a minimum
Click to expand...

Gee, it took me about one minute to find a manual online with the model number.

I would say that the recommended size IS the minimum size.
 
kwired said:
Does it tell you how to cram them into what little space they allowed for it?
Click to expand...

I doubt that it is designed for building wire.
These are designed for the IT world, and they usually use all cord and plug connections.

If you look in the manual, you will see all of the output connection options available and they all are cord and plug.
 
It was very tedious, and I had to flip the unit up on it's face to get some good leverage, but I was able to make some very tight bends in the #6 and cram it in a very tight space, then had 'muscle man' cram the cover on while I put the screws in it

2q09frl.jpg

axo7ia.jpg


I now find out the manufacture makes an extension box to fit the back of this unit, although when I called tech support they mentioned nothing about it
 
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