Driveway Gate Opener and Security prep question.

[ritelec]

A customer would like a number.

She has a long distance to a couple of driveway columns that she would like light and gate openers on.

I'm doing alittle research to find a gate opener place in my area. I don't know but, There doesn't seem to be to many around me and the one I did call no longer does it.

She has the gates sitting in her garage and would have to be mounted and vamped for some type of motor.

I saw on line some that are mounted in the ground, and "mighty mule" which is like a piston on a screen door.

The mighty mule seams to be fed with a plugged in transformer from a receptacle. The in ground posts I'm not sure about.

I was thinking about supplying and installing everything, but on further thought, I am thinking not to get involved with jams, or breaking, or warranties etc..

So my question is, never having installed power for gate openers....

What should I consider to bring out to the post area for gate feed, communication to the house for gate and or intercom , and security (cameras) to the house?

Thank you,
Rich

 

[GoldDigger]

The MightyMule openers that I have seen all use a DC motor (actuator) which is powered by a 12V battery inside the control unit. The wall wart transformer just feeds the battery charger and will be a minimal load, with no surge during operation.
Some people replace the transformer and charger with an approved solar panel set and charge controller mounted at the gate and rely entirely on RF controls or local keypad or push buttons and detector loops.

The light may force you to pull POCO power. If you have to do that, then you will have to guess whether a couple of CAT V cables in the same pull will do the job for intercom, etc. or whether a coax cable (old technology) will be needed too.
I believe, but cannot guarantee, that there are wireless intercom and video components available too, but they may take more power than a small solar panel and battery can provide.

 

[ritelec]

The MightyMule openers that I have seen all use a DC motor (actuator) which is powered by a 12V battery inside the control unit. The wall wart transformer just feeds the battery charger and will be a minimal load, with no surge during operation.
Some people replace the transformer and charger with an approved solar panel set and charge controller mounted at the gate and rely entirely on RF controls or local keypad or push buttons and detector loops.

The light may force you to pull POCO power. If you have to do that, then you will have to guess whether a couple of CAT V cables in the same pull will do the job for intercom, etc. or whether a coax cable (old technology) will be needed too.
I believe, but cannot guarantee, that there are wireless intercom and video components available too, but they may take more power than a small solar panel and battery can provide.

Thank you.

Am I off? cat 5 in the same pull ? Thought that was a no no.

So I should be good to go with a couple (2) 1" pvc's?

Power and low voltage.

Maybe two spares also wouldn't hurt?

 

[GoldDigger]

Thank you.

Am I off? cat 5 in the same pull ? Thought that was a no no.

I was being a little loose in my terminology. All I meant was installing at the same time, same ditch, whatever.

I guess that if you account for VD properly, you could also run the output of the Class II power transformer instead of running 120V out to the gate location at all.
Although that does not take care of the lighting....

Just as a side note, since I see that you mentioned gates, plural. A controller that handles two gate actuators will usually include circuitry that starts one gate moving a second or two before the other so that the battery does not have to support both motor starting surges at the same time.

 

[starbolin]

...
I was thinking about supplying and installing everything, but on further thought, I am thinking not to get involved with jams, or breaking, or warranties etc..

...

Trust that little voice. The things are a maintenance nightmare. They break when it's too hot, too cold, every time there is fog - they get run into - critters get into them - they will cause trouble every big storm. This kind of install is something that security installers do all the time. Just have them tell you where they want power.

 

[north star]

* + * + *


I will have to agree with **starbolin** in that, there are companies out there
that perform a complete install of everything the customer wants......All that
a typical EC will need to do is to supply the power to it.

FWIW: In our area, we have had bad outcomes with systems installed
underground.....More intensive maintenance, ...more difficult to access
[ typically ] and actually perform work on, ...higher costs, etc.

If a security installer is selected, ...have the homeowner to perform a very
thorough "due diligence" research on every single potential company being
considered........There is a heck of a variety of so called "security installers"
and legitimate security companies [ i.e. - Read every contract, ...especially
the fine print, ...limitations, ...warranties, ...etc., etc. ], and to check
references thoroughly and carefully.

Caveat emptor, ...again !


* + * + *

 

[ritelec]

Thanks Gents !

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I would not attempt this install. Let the trained guys do it and you run the power

 

[ritelec]

Sounds good to me Dennis.


Question.
Looking at the direct burial chart,
I'm reminded of Mel Gibson. "On" 3 or 3 "then".


The 2" and 4" concrete depths.

Lets take line two column three.

In trench below 2" thick concrete......... non-metallic 12".

Would the trench then be 14" with the concrete being at the top 2" of it? (so you have the 12")
Trench 12" with the top 2" concrete so it's below concrete 10"?
Trench 12" with 2" sitting on top (like a walk)?

Just thinking.