dryer three wire or four wire

Status
Not open for further replies.
G

Greg1707

Senior Member
Location
Alexandria, VA
Occupation
Business owner Electrical contractor
The instructions for a Maytag dryer whow options for using a three wire or four wire power cord.
For both installations the appliance green ground wire is connected to the center neutral terminal.
I had assumed that with the four wire installation the appliance ground would be moved from the center neutral terminal and moved to bond the frame with the appliance cord green EGC?

Are these instructions clear or am I missing something?

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/f4/f4e29355-d9cc-4832-ba27-bd5827228c0f.pdf
 
It tells you right there, undo the bonded neutral to ground on the appliance.
7874acbac3010e7a1fb5a43746449413.jpg


Jason
 
Most newer dryers anymore don't have the bonding "strap" they used to have, instead there is a green wire landed under green screw on the appliance cabinet. The other end of this green wire isn't always easy to trace with just the supply terminal cover removed, but does originate at the incoming neutral terminal. If using a 4 wire cord, remove it from under the green screw, land the EGC in the supply cord there, and park that jumper wire on the neutral or tape it up to isolate it from the cabinet.
 
kwired said:
Most newer dryers anymore don't have the bonding "strap" they used to have, instead there is a green wire landed under green screw on the appliance cabinet.
Click to expand...
In my experience I haven't seen that yet but knowing the way mfr's are you can bet they're not notifying the industry of the change in design.
The other end of this green wire isn't always easy to trace with just the supply terminal cover removed, but does originate at the incoming neutral terminal. If using a 4 wire cord, remove it from under the green screw, land the EGC in the supply cord there, and park that jumper wire on the neutral or tape it up to isolate it from the cabinet.
Click to expand...
You are most likely correct but in addition I would use an ohm meter to check and see if the EGC wire that you describe is internally connected to the neutral terminal.

I would also like to add that the "delivery guys" literally have no idea what to do with a 4-wire cord. Bear in mind they're not MIT graduates !!!
 
goldstar said:
In my experience I haven't seen that yet but knowing the way mfr's are you can bet they're not notifying the industry of the change in design.You are most likely correct but in addition I would use an ohm meter to check and see if the EGC wire that you describe is internally connected to the neutral terminal.

I would also like to add that the "delivery guys" literally have no idea what to do with a 4-wire cord. Bear in mind they're not MIT graduates !!!
Click to expand...
That seems to be the method I have mostly been seeing for 10-15 years, if it is the "flat strap" you used to see it usually is an older appliance. I usually do just check with an ohm meter just to be sure, and I usually tape the end of that green instead of parking it on the neutral terminal.

I'd bet most of them don't get bonded again if ever moved to a place with a 3 wire receptacle.
 
Jberg73 said:
It tells you right there, undo the bonded neutral to ground on the appliance.

Jason
Click to expand...
put a ohm meter on the dryer N and chassis (not connected to power), what do you get?
 
I agree with Kwired. All the new dryers I have seen the past ~10 years have a wire instead of a strap. Originally the wire was green but now they have changed it to white. I'm sure the change to white was to help tell installers this is a neutral wire not a ground wire.
 
Whirlpool made dryers (that being Maytag and nearly all others) have a white wire acting as the strap. Post a pic if you can.
 
When I said bonded, bonded doesn't mean a strap. It says in the instructions to move the white wire from the ground terminal. The OP asked if he had missed the instructions telling him to do so. He was correct in his initial thought of breaking the bond between the two. All I pointed out is that, yes, it was in the instructions.

Jason
 
bonded to neutral

bonded to neutral

Ok.

So as mentioned earlier it appears there is a green wire connected to the neutral terminal. I assume the other end is bonded to the frame.

If this is the case, what is the point of having a four wire with EGC? I thought the reason for the EGC was to eliminate the old system of bonding to neutral?
 
So as mentioned earlier it appears there is a green wire connected to the neutral terminal. I assume the other end is bonded to the frame.
Click to expand...

It would be right in front of you. See the lug on the green on the green ground screw?

I thought the reason for the EGC was to eliminate the old system of bonding to neutral?
Click to expand...

That is the code now and has been for some time. Apparently the manufacturer ships the appliance that way to either: 1) allow connection in an older home with a pre-existing three wire receptacle/wiring or, 2) make sure the appliance is at least grounded (to the neutral) when some DIY jackleg who has no idea brings it home from Home Depot and installs it himself.

-Hal
 
I've always wondered why they don't just make everything in a range or dryer 240 volt and do away with the neutral altogether.
 
peter d said:
It would make things a lot easier.
Click to expand...

And cheaper. Being able to run three wires instead of four. Not having to replace three-wires with four.

It seems like we always have to run wires to satisfy the manufacturers instead of the other way around.

I was just telling a potential client about the six foot rule for wall spaces and two foot rule for countertops. I pointed out that most things come with either a six foot or two foot cord respectively.
 
jaylectricity said:
And cheaper. Being able to run three wires instead of four. Not having to replace three-wires with four.

It seems like we always have to run wires to satisfy the manufacturers instead of the other way around.

I was just telling a potential client about the six foot rule for wall spaces and two foot rule for countertops. I pointed out that most things come with either a six foot or two foot cord respectively.
Click to expand...

It boils my blood that there are stoves that need #6 and cooktops that need another #10 over a few 1/4w 120 volt surface indicators. Seriously, you can't stick a 40va transformer in this one?

http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Springfield/316905253.pdf


But yahhh, its to please the manufactures. Only need one motor for both gas and electric dryers and 120 volt appliance controls can be used everywhere without needing to spend $$$ on an internal transformer.
 
I've seen ranges with no neutral, they still had same power supply terminals with a bonded neutral from the factory, there just was no neutral conductors within the appliance.

Would you put a 6-50 receptacle for that application? Then someday they buy a new range that needs a neutral again and anyone involved wants to know why there is a 6-50 receptacle for a range when 10-50 and 14-50 are the only two "normal" ones for that application.
 
hbiss said:
It would be right in front of you. See the lug on the green on the green ground screw?



That is the code now and has been for some time. Apparently the manufacturer ships the appliance that way to either: 1) allow connection in an older home with a pre-existing three wire receptacle/wiring or, 2) make sure the appliance is at least grounded (to the neutral) when some DIY jackleg who has no idea brings it home from Home Depot and installs it himself.

-Hal
Click to expand...

OK. I finally realized my mistake. I assumed the other end of the dryer green bonding wire was connected to the frame. It is connected to the neutral. So, when using a four wire cord the wire remains on the neutral terminal and serves no purpose.
 
Greg1707 said:
OK. I finally realized my mistake. I assumed the other end of the dryer green bonding wire was connected to the frame. It is connected to the neutral. So, when using a four wire cord the wire remains on the neutral terminal and serves no purpose.
Click to expand...
Which I tried to explain to you in post 3;)
 
kwired said:
I've seen ranges with no neutral, they still had same power supply terminals with a bonded neutral from the factory, there just was no neutral conductors within the appliance.

Would you put a 6-50 receptacle for that application? Then someday they buy a new range that needs a neutral again and anyone involved wants to know why there is a 6-50 receptacle for a range when 10-50 and 14-50 are the only two "normal" ones for that application.
Click to expand...

In that case I would agree, but the wall oven or cook top that needs a noodle for one 1/4 watt indicator light :roll:
 
Greg1707 said:
OK. I finally realized my mistake. I assumed the other end of the dryer green bonding wire was connected to the frame. It is connected to the neutral. So, when using a four wire cord the wire remains on the neutral terminal and serves no purpose.
Click to expand...

Most confusing and biggest mistake. A ton of dryers have a green wire connected to the frame, but it simply connects to the neutral. People will then follow the instructions and move it to the neutral terminal people then start saying "its not properly grounded, your green is not on the neutral and not the cord's ground" Keep the green on the frame then people site the instructions. :roll: I'd much rather a strap.


This is correct:

http://www.american-appliance.com/images/image_data/4prongcord_small.jpg

Incorrect:

https://www.google.com/search?q=dry...#imgdii=_ktZ9J7L8rbKwM:&imgrc=Inq8VB7rFoaXQM:

After so much confusion and complaints they just went to a white jumper:

https://www.google.com/search?q=dry...#imgdii=Q3eVkodbbec9WM:&imgrc=eJ1V-C7dWjVYjM:

but if you look closely, people still screw it up :roll: Honestly, just make it a visible strap. Who has the time to open the appliance and trace wires?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top