electric gate

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wireperson

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I'll be going to a customer who wants to have a gate in his house. I haven't done a gate b4 .any tips , advices or any inputs about gates?

thanks in advance
 
wireperson said:
I'll be going to a customer who wants to have a gate in his house. I haven't done a gate b4 .any tips , advices or any inputs about gates?

thanks in advance
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Just be sure your liability insurance, covers gate work.
 
Mr. Person :)grin:), I've done a couple. You absolutely must check with the gate supplier/installer on the specifics and locations.

On one, I ran a 1/2" PVC for power (120v) to the 'master' unit, and a 1/2" PVC under the driveway for the 'slave' unit.

On another one, the control was separated from the 'master', so I ran power to the controller, one 1/2" from that to the first post, and one from post to post.
 
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the mighty mules are low cost, but not the most reliable (they wear out quick). the biggest problem i've had w/ them are units arriving w/ dead batteries. in my experience, their support was terrible. viking makes a quality operator; they're much more expensive than the mighty mule but very heavy duty.
 
Well since there going to be a gate, is there going to be any comminication from the gate, a messager service ? ThUs another conduit and possible shared power? Or a telphone type application ?
 
I've installed three Mighty Mules in the past year, Two solar (Did not use the cheesy mighty mule solar panel though) and one 120 volt. The only problem I had was the wireless keypads are not the best quality, the transmit signal is weak to begin with, and when the battery gets low, its hit or miss on working. They can be hardwired, which works much better. I looked at the other more expensive ones, and the internals looked to be built in the same factory with just a different outside covering.
 
On the mighty mule it has battery backup and runs the opener off of the battery while a low voltage transformer keeps the battery charged, draws very little power. The transformer looks to be around 40 va.
 
LarryFine said:
Mr. Person :)grin:), I've done a couple. You absolutely must check with the gate supplier/installer on the specifics and locations.

On one, I ran a 1/2" PVC for power (120v) to the 'master' unit, and a 1/2" PVC under the driveway for the 'slave' unit.

On another one, the control was separated from the 'master', so I ran power to the controller, one 1/2" from that to the first post, and one from post to post.
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I have done a few but like to keep my underground conduit size as a 1" especially when crossing a driveway.
 
jrannis said:
I have done a few but like to keep my underground conduit size as a 1" especially when crossing a driveway.
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Do they even make 1/2" PVC? :grin:

I imagine the inside of 1/2" schedule 80 PVC to be about the size of a pencil.

Generally 1" is the smallest I will bury outside, inside I may use 3/4" to floor boxes as many will not take a 1".
 
I used to have an account with a gate installer. On the rolling gates they would dig a 12" deep trench across the drive to support the track and I would put my PVC in the bottom.

About 1/2 the time I would get red tagged for not being 24" across the drive. The other half, the gate contractor didn't pull a permit :roll:

Gah!

I know it's code but it doesn't follow intention. When the redo, tear up and regrade the asphalt in 20 yuears they are not going to tear up the concrete gate footing.
 
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