Emergency Fluorescent fixture

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funseebee

Member
Location
CA
Just need to settle an argument. How does an emergency fluorescent fixture (single ballast with battery pack) connected? Should it be connected to a light switch and turn on/off during regular light switch operation and turn on when there's power outage? Or should it NOT be connected to a light switch that it will be ON all the time. If there's an occupancy sensor, should the emergency fluorescent fixture be connected to it?:-?:-?
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
if you want the light to be controlled by wall switch or other control method you will need both hot and switched leads at fixture. hot lead is for emergency ballast when power is lost on this lead battery backup is initiated. power is also needed to recharge the battery. emergency lamp will light during power failure even if wall switch was off.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Code wise, emergency fixtures must be on during a power failure. You can do this by leaving the fixture on 24/7 or the NEC allows switching the fixture off if it will come on during a failure even when it had been turned off.

On the jos I work this is usually accomplished by running the circuits through normally closed contactors.
 

kbsparky

Senior Member
Location
Delmarva, USA
I just installed (4) of the Bodine B-50 battery-packs in some 8 foot high output fixtures. (3) of these fixtures are controlled by a wall switch.

The internal wiring of these e-ballasts allows for any scenario -- whether you have 24/7 operation, wall switch control, or emergency only operation.

Click here for a .pdf of the installation instructions, and scroll down to the last page for the wiring diagrams.

Here are the instructions for their B-100 model, commonly used with F40 lamps.
 

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Use "Frog Eyes"

Use "Frog Eyes"

I've worked on a number of 2x4 layins with emergency ballasts. I have found them rather troublesome. In a school, I'd replace the em ballast, then the following week return to replace the std ballast. Sometimes the em ballast only lasts a year or so. I much prefer "frog eyes", the wall mounted battery packs with double floods. Make 1 connection to constant power, no switch. They light brightly enough for em use and most I've seen are reliable. A few have shoddy covers and the snap closures can rupture, but that's a small detail and they don't fall apart for it. Batteries are usually easy to find and the fixture is surface mounted; easy to replace whole thing if needed. Most all supply houses have them in stock. They also come as a combo with exit light that can be wall or ceiling mounted.
 

jeremysterling

Senior Member
Location
Austin, TX
It is convenient to make the emergency light be a "night-light". This is common, for instance, near the door of a large room.

Since the OP has an occupancy sensor, the goal may be energy conservation. In that scenario, do as others have suggested and bring a constant hot and a switch-leg(controlled by the occupancy sensor) to the EM ballast.
 
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