Energy code outlet boxes VS drywallers

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Buck Parrish

Buck Parrish

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NC & IN
Have any of you used these energy code boxes with the outside lip?
If so, how did it go with the drywallers?
 

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curt swartz said:
They will just zip the flange off the box as they are cutting the hole.
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I always - for a few seconds until I come to me senses - think we could instruct the drywallers on the specific intricacies and requirements of the job. But then I am always reminded of the blank dumbfounded looks I have gotten in the past, and/ or the struggle to find one on the crew that speaks English 😞
 
electrofelon said:
I always - for a few seconds until I come to me senses - think we could instruct the drywallers on the specific intricacies and requirements of the job. But then I am always reminded of the blank dumbfounded looks I have gotten in the past, and/ or the struggle to find one on the crew that speaks English 😞
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The ones that speak English are worse from my experience. The most burried boxes and cans ever in a house was a "crew" of like 8 guys who were working T and M doing drywall. It didn't look all that great either idk if they never did anything other than spray texture or what.


PS this isn't the same time that a bunch of English speaking "laborers" who told me after burying all my boxes on a kitchen remodel that the electrician cuts his own holes lol. I had a lot to say to that GC and he knew better so had no excuse.
 
Came in a job to thinking "I thought there was a switch or outlet on that wall". Found it by the bulge. Wall all mudded and painted, open up box and all the surround screws pop through. GC did try to blame me, but shut that down quick.
 
NTesla76 said:
Do you have to use that type of box? Could you just foam around it and call it sealed?
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Typically that box would be within fiber fill insulated walls and the flange provides an air infiltration around the box and it does have similar soft silicone seal at the NM penetrations. If wall is going to be spray foamed then no need for this box.
 
Fred B said:
Typically that box would be within fiber fill insulated walls and the flange provides an air infiltration around the box and it does have similar soft silicone seal at the NM penetrations. If wall is going to be spray foamed then no need for this box.
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Understood. I guess I was saying if it was batt insulation, you could use a can of spray foam around a normal nail-on box to avoid using that type of box with the flange. But @kwired is right, the people cutting the drywall should learn fast enough.
 
Fred B said:
Came in a job to thinking "I thought there was a switch or outlet on that wall". Found it by the bulge. Wall all mudded and painted, open up box and all the surround screws pop through. GC did try to blame me, but shut that down quick.
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I once had them bury all boxes in a vending machine room. I told them several times and they didn't bother to do anything about it. I found every one of them with a hammer (honest to God, after discussing with my boss, the owner). They had a fit, but lost the battle. Didn't have another problem with that!
 
Strathead said:
I once had them bury all boxes in a vending machine room. I told them several times and they didn't bother to do anything about it. I found every one of them with a hammer (honest to God, after discussing with my boss, the owner). They had a fit, but lost the battle. Didn't have another problem with that!
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When it's just a couple I just cut them out. When they mess up big and I just happen to know where because of pictures I'll cut them and push on the wall and show off the clickers they missed to their boss.
 
I think if the vapor barrier isn’t applied and sealed to the flange of this box you may as well use a regular box.
 
I'm looking forward to vapor-retarder boxes with molded-in ceramic or carbide pellets becoming available.

They won't destroy a rotozip tool if you don't try cutting through them.
 
I'm thinking half of the time they put the roto-zip in the box any way. So it would not matter.
I guess the other half of the time, y'all are right, they'd destroy the box or at least the foam liner.

I'm not required to use the box, but had thought about using that type of box in my own new home.
 
I have done plenty of drywall work. I always measure and cut first.

I use hole-saws for recessed lights. I hit them perfectly every time.
 
Buck Parrish said:
I'm thinking half of the time they put the roto-zip in the box any way. So it would not matter.
I guess the other half of the time, y'all are right, they'd destroy the box or at least the foam liner.

I'm not required to use the box, but had thought about using that type of box in my own new home.
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If you are not using spray foam insulation, it is very important to seal around the box on exterior walls, whether it be a box like we are discussing or just caulking it after. It's not just for energy savings, more importantly it is critical to reduce airflow into the colder wall cavity (winter in cold climates) where it will condense and moisture will build up in the wall. I was made a believer when we took some drywall off for several days during the winter. The sheathing and back side of the batts were soaking wet the next day.
 
electrofelon said:
I was made a believer when we took some drywall off for several days during the winter. The sheathing and back side of the batts were soaking wet the next day.
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That's certainly true for most homes, which have no exterior continuous insulation.

If you happen to have a modern build or remodel with sufficient exterior insulation, then the back side of the sheathing should be kept warm enough so that it is not a condensing surface. The IRC has a chart in it that tells you the minimum ratio of exterior continuous R-value to wall cavity R-value based on climate zone, and it's precisely for this purpose.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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