European single phase equipment

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Klockopotomis

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Parker CO
Hey guys i want to ask for advice with a piece of equipment as the mfg is in Turkey and doesn't speak english.
I am hooking up an dryer for a air compressor at a fab shop. The dryer has a cord and plug with he plug being 2 prongs, no ground. The equipment nameplate says 230/1/60
I didn't think Europe had 60hz so this is making me think they made this model for US.
No where in the paperwork does it offer differing operating voltages.
Building has 120/208 with a high leg.
I am waiting for their tech support to get back to me, but if the equipment can't run on supplied power, what is the most efficient way of getting 230? Equipment draws 7 amps.
thanks
 
Klockopotomis said:
Hey guys i want to ask for advice with a piece of equipment as the mfg is in Turkey and doesn't speak english.
I am hooking up an dryer for a air compressor at a fab shop. The dryer has a cord and plug with he plug being 2 prongs, no ground. The equipment nameplate says 230/1/60
I didn't think Europe had 60hz so this is making me think they made this model for US.
No where in the paperwork does it offer differing operating voltages.
Building has 120/208 with a high leg.
I am waiting for their tech support to get back to me, but if the equipment can't run on supplied power, what is the most efficient way of getting 230? Equipment draws 7 amps.
thanks
Click to expand...

should be running 200-230 but 50 hertz on the F plug... not quite the French plug though... Not sure why it is showing a 60 on it...

It could run off a 240 volt hook up... they only use two wires in some areas..neutral and live, no ground... and unless there are sensitive electronics inside it, the USA 220 will work... just needs watched... but would replace the cable to include the ground to machinery.
However, you may need to get an actual power converter to create the 230/50 hz... if so, cheapest way might be an inverter from a battery pack...lol... based on your need of 7 amps only.
 
Klockopotomis said:
Hey guys i want to ask for advice with a piece of equipment as the mfg is in Turkey and doesn't speak english.
I am hooking up an dryer for a air compressor at a fab shop. The dryer has a cord and plug with he plug being 2 prongs, no ground. The equipment nameplate says 230/1/60
I didn't think Europe had 60hz so this is making me think they made this model for US.
No where in the paperwork does it offer differing operating voltages.
Building has 120/208 with a high leg.
I am waiting for their tech support to get back to me, but if the equipment can't run on supplied power, what is the most efficient way of getting 230? Equipment draws 7 amps.
thanks
Click to expand...
You have a 120/240 delta with a 208 volt high leg? Correct?

Connect between any two ungrounded conductors, any motors you have connected to same system are likely rated 230 volts also, but that is deemed acceptable to connect a 230 volt rated piece of equipment to 240 volts nominal system.
 
kwired is right, you can't have "120/208 with a high leg". You either have 208Y120 3 phase 4 wire that is 208V phase to phase and 120V phase to neutral on all 3 legs, or you have 240/120 3 phase 4 wire delta that is 240 phase to phase and 120 phase to neutral on A and C phases, with the "high leg" on phase B that is 208V to neutral. So if you have one leg that is 208V phase to neutral, then any 2 legs phase to phase will be 240V. That's what you would use.

If you DO have 208Y120V however, you may need to get a "buck-boost" transformer to boost the 208V to 240V. Air compressor dryers are basically refrigeration compressors and likely have hermetically sealed motors. Running them all the time at low voltage will cause an early demise. it probably is a 50Hz motor, but is OK running at 60Hz. However that will already make it run hot, so adding a LV condition to it as well is flirting with disaster.
 
Jraef said:
kwired is right, you can't have "120/208 with a high leg". You either have 208Y120 3 phase 4 wire that is 208V phase to phase and 120V phase to neutral on all 3 legs, or you have 240/120 3 phase 4 wire delta that is 240 phase to phase and 120 phase to neutral on A and C phases, with the "high leg" on phase B that is 208V to neutral. So if you have one leg that is 208V phase to neutral, then any 2 legs phase to phase will be 240V. That's what you would use.

If you DO have 208Y120V however, you may need to get a "buck-boost" transformer to boost the 208V to 240V. Air compressor dryers are basically refrigeration compressors and likely have hermetically sealed motors. Running them all the time at low voltage will cause an early demise. it probably is a 50Hz motor, but is OK running at 60Hz. However that will already make it run hot, so adding a LV condition to it as well is flirting with disaster.
Click to expand...

would such a unit be double insulated so as to not need a ground wire?

Other question is if it has a Euro plug on it, could one use a Euro receptacle here so as to not modify the plug?
 
Klockopotomis said:
The dryer has a cord and plug with he plug being 2 prongs, no ground.
Click to expand...

The Schuko plug does indeed have a ground. The German (and most of the rest of Europe) version of the Schuko plug uses ground connections that fit into the slots in the side of the round plug. The French version of the Schuko uses a make pin in the receptacle to fit into the female hole on the plug. Most all cords will work with either type of receptacle.

The important thing is, the Schuko plug does indeed have a ground (or earth) connection.

If you don't want to change the plug, call International Config. They have MANY international receptacles, designed to fit into N. American single gang back boxes. Based on how you've described it, you should be able to use this receptacle:

http://internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=70114-DW

A piece of advice: use a deep box for this receptacle, and wire it with stranded wire. Shallow boxes and solid conductors make for a real ordeal (I know firsthand. I've installed many of these receptacles on projects we've built for Europe).

Protect the receptacle at 15A; the receptacles are good for up to 16A. As for voltage, you will need a boost transformer for the power if you have 208V L-L. If you have 240V L-L, you should be able to just plug in and go.


SceneryDriver
 
If the machine is never going to be sent back to Turkey or anywhere else for that matter, I'd just cut the cap off and put in an appropriate one for North America. Or if it's not going to be portable, hard wire it. By the time you get done with the boost transformer, you would be better off just hard wiring it in my opinion, because the transformer has to go with it.
 
ramsy said:
Do those Euro deviced screw into the holes of standard 1-gang boxes?

Or, do we need a Weather Proof 2-gang box with the extra mounting-hole options?
Click to expand...

I believe they fit a standard single-gang box, no WP box required. It's worth a question as you need to call them to order anyway. I always used the surface-mount receptacles/back boxes in our projects.


SceneryDriver
 
Klockopotomis said:
Hey guys i want to ask for advice with a piece of equipment as the mfg is in Turkey and doesn't speak english.
I am hooking up an dryer for a air compressor at a fab shop. The dryer has a cord and plug with he plug being 2 prongs, no ground. The equipment nameplate says 230/1/60
I didn't think Europe had 60hz so this is making me think they made this model for US.

thanks
Click to expand...

Could be, Turkey is 230V 50 Hz ......
 
and turkey says 230 but a few of the people I worked with from there said normal is between 200 and 210... they hardly ever got full voltage..causing loads of replacement costs for companies there... so I would watch it in case it was more comfortable on 208 rather than 240...
 
Jraef said:
If you DO have 208Y120V however, you may need to get a "buck-boost" transformer to boost the 208V to 240V. Air compressor dryers are basically refrigeration compressors and likely have hermetically sealed motors. Running them all the time at low voltage will cause an early demise. it probably is a 50Hz motor, but is OK running at 60Hz. However that will already make it run hot, so adding a LV condition to it as well is flirting with disaster.
Click to expand...
The nameplate, according to the OP, is 230/1/60.
Couldn't you get close enough with the 120/0/120 used over there?
 
Besoeker said:
The nameplate, according to the OP, is 230/1/60.
Couldn't you get close enough with the 120/0/120 used over there?
Click to expand...
That’s my thought... only a few appliances cannot be operated on it... at least that I have found in Caribbean... biggest problem is wiring but I have breakout boxes for UK and French stuff... for my 15 amp 230 volt outlet in my kitchen there...

they use that wierd plug in turkey though.. the one that only has the live and neutral and no ground... but looks like the French plug...that is not that good
 
kwired said:
You have a 120/240 delta with a 208 volt high leg? Correct?
Click to expand...

Jraef said:
kwired is right, you can't have "120/208 with a high leg". You either have 208Y120 3 phase 4 wire that is 208V phase to phase and 120V phase to neutral on all 3 legs, or you have 240/120 3 phase 4 wire delta that is 240 phase to phase and 120 phase to neutral on A and C phases, with the "high leg" on phase B that is 208V to neutral. So if you have one leg that is 208V phase to neutral, then any 2 legs phase to phase will be 240V. That's what you would use.
Click to expand...

I think ( and that can be dangerous) that when he says he's got 120/208V with a high leg he is talking about what he measures from each phase to neutral and thus a high leg of 208V.

I agree with Jraef that it would normally get hooked up to 240V.

Better for the voltage to be a little high than low.

The only problem with foreign name plates is that you never know if you can trust them. Some companies will just stick anything on there.
 
thank you guys for the help. I will go by tomorrow and double check the voltage but what I remembered was L1-N=120 L2-N=208 L3-N=120 L1+L3=240
Turkey Mgf cannot connect me to an engineer but the did say 60Hz is fine.
So if Turkey tested the equipment at 230 v Line to Neutral, why would 240v Line to Line work? It wouldn't need a neutral, is it because the dryer works like a/c's and resistive heating elements?
I do need to brush up on my electrical theory tho :/
18 yrs and still learning. This is the first time I have come across high leg too.
 
Klockopotomis said:
thank you guys for the help. I will go by tomorrow and double check the voltage but what I remembered was L1-N=120 L2-N=208 L3-N=120 L1+L3=240
Turkey Mgf cannot connect me to an engineer but the did say 60Hz is fine.
So if Turkey tested the equipment at 230 v Line to Neutral, why would 240v Line to Line work? It wouldn't need a neutral, is it because the dryer works like a/c's and resistive heating elements?
I do need to brush up on my electrical theory tho :/
18 yrs and still learning. This is the first time I have come across high leg too.
Click to expand...
The machine (presumably a motor) does not "know" if the voltage is L-L or L-N, all it knows is the difference in POTENTIAL between the two connections, and 240 is 240 is 240.
 
Klockopotomis said:
thank you guys for the help. I will go by tomorrow and double check the voltage but what I remembered was L1-N=120 L2-N=208 L3-N=120 L1+L3=240
Click to expand...
That's a high-leg delta, all right. There will also be 240v between any two lines, of course.

So if Turkey tested the equipment at 230 v Line to Neutral, why would 240v Line to Line work? It wouldn't need a neutral, is it because the dryer works like a/c's and resistive heating elements?
Click to expand...
With two line conductors, and no neutral needed, it will work. Voltage to ground normally doesn't matter.

18 yrs and still learning. This is the first time I have come across high leg too.
Click to expand...
Simply put, L1-N-L3 is exactly the same as a 1ph service, like your house has, and adding L2 basically superimposes a 3ph delta on top of that.

Any 240v 1ph load with a neutral requirement should be supplied by L1 and L3 (and the neutral, of course). Any other 240v 1ph can be supplied by any two lines.

The high-leg 3ph supply originated as a modification to existing 1ph services to supply added 3ph equipment like air conditioning and refrigeration.
 
Besoeker said:
The nameplate, according to the OP, is 230/1/60.
Couldn't you get close enough with the 120/0/120 used over there?
Click to expand...
US marketed motors are ordinarily marked 230 volts on nameplate for a motor intended to be used on a 240 volt nominal supply as well as 460 volts for a motor intended to be used on 480 volt nominal, 115 volts on nominal 120 volts. One intended to be used on 208 volt nominal may often be marked 200 volts. Then there are some marked 208-230, which are intended for 208 or 240 volts nominal.
 
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